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#15 |
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Oh yeah, quick question. I'm on the stock 20's right now with 20MM wheel spacers 245-275 tires. And I'm lowered on coil overs to the point where you can hardly stick a finger in the wheel gap, how will the new 20x10 and 20x11 do? With 285's all around or the 285/305 option
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 SS Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,713
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I'm down 1" all around and I do not rub even during Autox. Measure from the bottom center lip of your wheel to the top of the fender arch. You should be somewhere between 25.75-26". This is what is recommended not to put undue stress on the rear axles. You are probably running a 40 series tire now and a 35 series tire will lower the car about .40".
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#17 |
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A pic to show how long I am,
What do you consider them? Should I raise my car before the dealer installs my wheels or should I leave it, I have to pretty much go sideways over any bump as it is
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#18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 SS Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,713
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20x8 front OEM 20's have a +35 offset. With a 20mm spacer your the equivalent of a +15, but an 8inch wide wheel. You would be okay with a 20 x 10+23 if you are not lower than 1.25 inches or more.
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#19 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 SS Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,713
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That's low. Looks cool, but it may be a little too low and it is not good for the suspension geometry.
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#20 |
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I only used the spacer to get by with stock wheels. Obviously won't use spacers with new wheels.
Judging off my pic, if I get the 20x10 and 20x11 option, would I be rubbing? Should I just get 285's all around? Should o do a 35 series? Or a 40 series
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#21 |
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I never track my car though, sometimes a car meet with a mountain run after but that's like every 3 months
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#22 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 SS Supercharged Convertible Join Date: May 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,713
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The 35 series will bring you down lower and give you some space back between the fender and tire. 40 series looks like a truck tire compared to a 35 series. You have coil overs so you can adjust your car just right. Tires are your call. 285's a little safer bet.
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#23 |
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Hmm.. Now I feel like I should stick to 40's.. I want to keep my car low. If your saying to stick with 285's all around,
What size wheel?
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#24 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2015 1LS Red V6 Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: St Joseph, MO
Posts: 1,849
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Quote:
And good and cheap tires? Lol
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#25 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,850
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Also worth mentioning: If you get ZL1 replica wheels and decide to have them staggered with wider rubber in the back, a good set of all-seasons is the BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2. You can get these on TireRack. I would have, but I had a nail in my tire and they were back ordered for 2 months at the time. Ended up with Goodyear Eagle F1:G2's again.
My last set of Goodyears were shot after just 2 years of driving. They're great in the summer and manageable if you're careful in the cold, but they aren't designed to be driven year round and wear out easily. The BFGoodrich are a little less sticky in optimum conditions, but they have much beefier treads and should last a lot longer and handle more confidently in the cold. They also aren't directional like the Goodyears so they can be rotated. Also as SS PANTHER said, running a square setup is the smart move unless you're more focused on looks. If you run a staggered setup, the rear tires can cost up to $100 more depending on the brand and where you get it from. It's also harder to rotate. Here's a link to TireRack if you want to see the options. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...SortCode=60150 |
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#26 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SGM 1LT M6 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,630
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I went with FR and have no regrets. I'm lowered 1.2" all around and run 20x10+23 275/40R20 in front and 20x11+43 315/35R20 in the rear. No rubbing at all even in tight turns.
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#27 |
![]() Drives: 2017 2SS, 2023 3LT RS, 2011 2LT RS Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Memphis
Posts: 366
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I'm running a 20x10 +35 box setup on BFG Comp 2 A/Ts - 275x40's all the way around.
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#28 |
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Bad 45th
Drives: 2012 45th Anniversay Edition SS Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 548
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I also called Factory Reproductions out of Chino directly. Prices were slightly better and more options. I had them pinstripe my wheels at a great price.
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2012 45th Anniversary SS - LS3 Magnuson TVS 2300 Supercharger / Alky Meth Injection / Lingenfelter GT12 Cam / Kooks LT Headers, 3 inch exhaust & QTP electric cut outs / Monster LT1-S Twin Disc Clutch / MGW flat blade short throw shifter / Haltech CAI / VMax Throttle Body / DSS Stage 3 axles/ BMR Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Suspension Bushing and 1" lowering springs / Taylor 8MM Plug Wires / Tuned by Henderson Performance Technologies / EBC dimpled and sloted rotors / G2 Painted Calipers / GM Tower Strut Brace / ZL1 Factory Rep Wheels |
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| Tags |
| replica, rims, wheels |
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