Screwed up my intercooler install - but fixed it

[ZO6 Bryan]

Originally Posted by Hocky

No, it didn't. Even after a week or two of driving, it still had air. I would occasionally slam the throttle and watch IATs instantly hit 200+ degrees and hit a wall of knock.

If it is plumbed properly it will. The lower outlet of the reservoir goes straight down to the pump and will gravity feed it. Then the pump will feed the heat exchanger from the bottom up and any air will exit the top. Then to the intercooler lid and back to the reservoir. Any air will exit into the reservoir. And don't forget the factory fill procedure! Doesn't anyone realize there is a bleed screw in the top of the heat exchanger. Read your owners manuals.

[LagunaSecaZL1]

Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan

If it is plumbed properly it will. The lower outlet of the reservoir goes straight down to the pump and will gravity feed it. Then the pump will feed the heat exchanger from the bottom up and any air will exit the top. Then to the intercooler lid and back to the reservoir. Any air will exit into the reservoir. And don't forget the factory fill procedure! Doesn't anyone realize there is a bleed screw in the top of the heat exchanger. Read your owners manuals.

Z06Bryan, your point is well taken. I don't believe the AFCO or Ron Davis Heat Exchangers have bleed screws. The Katech ZL1 Heat exchanger does.

The method I show, with the vinyl tubing, allows your to run your car and verify that coolant(non-aerated, this is important) is flowing(and with out making a mess). You definitely want to use the vinyl fill tube, since as soon as the engine is off the coolant level drops.This allows you to add more coolant. If my $3 method doesn't work for someone, then buy the $100 vacuum fill tool.

Some people, don't have an aftermarket intercooler reservoir, so the only visual way to check it is with the intercooler cap off.

[LagunaSecaZL1]

Originally Posted by jayno20

Same here. I am able to turn the pump on with my Aeroforce gauge and I can hear and see it circulating. I watched it push out air pockets as well... I'm not sure where the problem would come in if you have an aftermarket reservoir.

The problem occurred for me because I swapped out my heat exchanger on my ZL1 and didn't verify the coolant flowing. I did fill up over the course of 5 days, and now I don't believe the system was purged of air pockets.

On my Z06, I knew about the potential for cavitation and air pockets. I created the problem when I added an aftermarket reservoir. I was careful during installation and lost a very small amount of coolant.

Verifying intercooler coolant circulation is very important because you will not get a code or DIC message, and the ECM will pull timing if there is an issue. If you can monitor IAT2, which is not the easiest thing to do, then you will see the spike in temperature.

[LagunaSecaZL1]

Originally Posted by Hocky

No, it didn't. Even after a week or two of driving, it still had air. I would occasionally slam the throttle and watch IATs instantly hit 200+ degrees and hit a wall of knock.

Hocky, your message is why I made the video. I think some people have an air pocket or an under filled intercooler coolant and try to fix other ways. This problem could be caused for a variety of reasons. It could be from the factory or the heat exchanger/intercooler circuit was modified. Some people try using higher octane gas, lower temp thermostats and put in bigger heat exchangers to address the issue of low performance/or high IAT2. While all the bandaids may help, the key is making sure that intercooler pump is working, has as little air as possible (non-aerated coolant) and is flowing properly. Vacuuming filling is a great option if you have the tool, or pay for someone to do it. My $3 method is a good first shot to fix the problem. If it doesn't work, then get it vacuum filled.

[sef6]

Hey LagunaSecaZL1,
It's mighty nice of you to take the time to come back to us and share the knowledge. I'm going to be installing and it's great to see the head's up.

Thanks

[ZO6 Bryan]

Originally Posted by LagunaSecaZL1

Z06Bryan, your point is well taken. I don't believe the AFCO or Ron Davis Heat Exchangers have bleed screws. The Katech ZL1 Heat exchanger does.

The method I show, with the vinyl tubing, allows your to run your car and verify that coolant(non-aerated, this is important) is flowing(and with out making a mess). You definitely want to use the vinyl fill tube, since as soon as the engine is off the coolant level drops.This allows you to add more coolant. If my $3 method doesn't work for someone, then buy the $100 vacuum fill tool.

Some people, don't have an aftermarket intercooler reservoir, so the only visual way to check it is with the intercooler cap off.

Don't know about the AFCO but my Ron Davis has a bleed screw.

[hammdo]

Yep, my RD does also...

-Don

[LagunaSecaZL1]

Originally Posted by sef6

Hey LagunaSecaZL1,
It's mighty nice of you to take the time to come back to us and share the knowledge. I'm going to be installing and it's great to see the head's up.

Thanks

Your welcome.

[LagunaSecaZL1]

Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan

Don't know about the AFCO but my Ron Davis has a bleed screw.

Didn't know or realize it. Thanks

[KaBoom1701]

So I did this last night. Did about 6 times. Bleed a lot of air bubbles from the system. Still some small air pockets but nothing like the first few times....

I read the responses and you guys are right. The RD does have a bleeder on the upper left. So do I redo all this and crack the bleeder scew on RD ?

[jayno20]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

So I did this last night. Did about 6 times. Bleed a lot of air bubbles from the system. Still some small air pockets but nothing like the first few times....

I read the responses and you guys are right. The RD does have a bleeder on the upper left. So do I redo all this and crack the bleeder scew on RD ?

So even with the reservoir you needed to do this? Was the 1" inner diameter tube the right size for the top fill port?

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by jayno20

So even with the reservoir you needed to do this? Was the 1" inner diameter tube the right size for the top fill port?

I figured it can't hurt....

Yes...1" fit perfectly

[jayno20]

Originally Posted by KaBoom1701

I figured it can't hurt....

Yes...1" fit perfectly

I'm about to refill the intercooler system with distilled water and water wetter anyway so I figured I'd give this a shot while I'm at it. Did you notice any cooling differences yet?

[Boother]

Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan

If it is plumbed properly it will. The lower outlet of the reservoir goes straight down to the pump and will gravity feed it. Then the pump will feed the heat exchanger from the bottom up and any air will exit the top. Then to the intercooler lid and back to the reservoir. Any air will exit into the reservoir. And don't forget the factory fill procedure! Doesn't anyone realize there is a bleed screw in the top of the heat exchanger. Read your owners manuals.

Is that the 3/8" port on the passenger top corner? Can it be opened without removing the bumper? Does the factory fill procedure use that bleed screw or are there more instructions in the service manual?