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Old 05-12-2017, 08:08 PM   #15
Stephen12ZL1


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D2M View Post
I fully removed the nut / bolt and blew any debris out of the hole with compressed air and inspected the joint. Cleaned the bolt, put a bit of red locktite and torqued it till it smoked + 1/4 turn, marked it with paint. I will definitely keep a close eye on this.. On the other hand the bolts for the front caliper an wheel bearing that also failed must have been tightened by the Incredible Hulk, guessing he ran out of juice when he got to the back of the car.
excellent! Your words make me laugh!
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Old 05-12-2017, 11:42 PM   #16
jjgi5150
 
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Hi all.

Great tip to check for...even for street driven cars. I did a search and didn't see it. Is there a bolt /nut torque spec sheet somewhere for members?

TIA,

JJ
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Old 05-13-2017, 01:11 AM   #17
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The HULK strikes again 🤣
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:41 AM   #18
The_Raging_Bull
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Any bolt can work loose.

A bolt from the factory may be torqued to high, to low or just right. The same is true for a nut and bolt installed by the owner or a shop.
It isn't just these two bolts mentioned in this thread. It is ALL the bolts.
This is another example of why a Life and Death Nut and Bolt Check is critical before taking any car built by any company out on track. The more track miles you put on you Z, the more critical the Life and Death Check is.
Short Answer -- Get your Z on a lift. Replace those two bolts with full shoulder bolts. Use LocTite. Use a vibration proof fastener like this.

Torque it down and periodically check it.
Or just send your Z to me
Pete >> Thanks!
A quick google images search made me realize that we need to know the exact size (diameter) and the size of the shoulder as well.
Why don't you specify the exact (correct) bolt and washer to use....as in give us a supplier and url to exactly the correct sizes to use?
Your experience will help us get the right one on first. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would appreciate this.
I prefer a grade 8 bolt..which is what I'm assuming these are, as the bolt head isn't visible to see if theres an 8 on it.

Or tell us the correct size bolt from a place like MSC: https://www.mscdirect.com/industrial...lder-bolt.html

EDIT:Your picture says www.heico-lock.co.uk as its address; so just specify which washer you use for us??



Quote:
Originally Posted by D2M View Post
Cleaned the bolt, put a bit of red locktite and torqued it till it smoked + 1/4 turn, marked it with paint. I will definitely keep a close eye on this..
Oi?? RED locktite not blue?? You must be planning to never get it apart again. I'm going to use Locktite Blue on mine (once I know the EXACT shoulder bolt and heico washer, so if something ever loosens I can get a new bolt in there.
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Last edited by The_Raging_Bull; 05-13-2017 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:16 AM   #19
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I don't ever plan on taking this apart unless I have a joint fail like JP posted, I hope this never happens as I never launch my car. Fortunately I have never had wheel hop in my Z..
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:30 PM   #20
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Street use only here. Not too concerned. The forces exerted on these cars on the track far exceed anything it would see on the street. Have hit some fairly hard bumps, but I'm thinking it's the repeated 30 minute sessions where the car is under heavy stress that bolts could work themselves loose. Also, they are tough cars, but not impervious to effects of extreme mechanical forces incurred on the track. Run them hard, stuff will break, bolts will come loose, etc.

If anyone using only on the street finds a loose bolt then please let us know.
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raging_Bull View Post
Pete >> Thanks!
A quick google images search made me realize that we need to know the exact size (diameter) and the size of the shoulder as well.
Why don't you specify the exact (correct) bolt and washer to use....as in give us a supplier and url to exactly the correct sizes to use?
Your experience will help us get the right one on first. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would appreciate this.
I prefer a grade 8 bolt..which is what I'm assuming these are, as the bolt head isn't visible to see if theres an 8 on it.

Or tell us the correct size bolt from a place like MSC: https://www.mscdirect.com/industrial...lder-bolt.html

EDIT:Your picture says www.heico-lock.co.uk as its address; so just specify which washer you use for us??




Oi?? RED locktite not blue?? You must be planning to never get it apart again. I'm going to use Locktite Blue on mine (once I know the EXACT shoulder bolt and heico washer, so if something ever loosens I can get a new bolt in there.
I'll put them in my online store. Cool?
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:31 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
I'll put them in my online store. Cool?
Great ! ....I'd rather upgrade prior to any problems. Can the bolt just be replaced "without" lowering the suspension or dropping any driveline ?

Thanks for the help !
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:48 PM   #23
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I've had a rear toe link bolt snap while driving my SS on the street, talk about a wild ride! Now at every oil change, I check every suspension bolt for tightness.
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:25 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by serviceguy View Post
Great ! ....I'd rather upgrade prior to any problems. Can the bolt just be replaced "without" lowering the suspension or dropping any driveline ?

Thanks for the help !
It can be done by removing the exhaust and lowering the cradle while leaving most things attached.
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