Help getting my car past 500hp.

[christianchevell]

Fairly competent in installing your own cam is not where I would be, I use even br30 break in oil and the best tuner in my area. Your specialty tools and measuring for the correct lifter preload and pushrod length are not always so easy, even Robert way whos install DIY had trouble making his own preload and over time I would share this.... .047 is the thread pitch distance for one full turn of the studs on our heads. One turn though with a 1.7 rocker on it equals out to about .070 the preload for LS3 engine and most ls3 are more in the .040-.060 range for quieter valvetrain from the factory..3/4 a turn after zero lash.

And those that used to post here in the earlier days of the gen 5, ( I am on my second), blamed cams..when not doing a break in oil, or break in, and ran the wrong grade oil, or wrong preload which changes with different lifters...and some more preload like the range of the ls7 lifter may be what many want...as its safe in the plunger travel and better to not valve float at high rpms yet does make more typewriter sound especially until warmed up...just like mine. And even the wrong kind of sheer can flatten the roller tip and not turning a roller eats the cam..... So yes I use br30 from driven racing to break in my engine/cams, and I use ls30 after broken in to drive on... I get it form my local Baxter auto parts as they have it in their warehouse because old motor heads like me know the skinny on the oil now a days or else............ SO good luck MR. 13 posts you have about 57350 more to read to prep yourself to change that cam..LOL IMO..... some people who do it themselves fade away to avoid the embarrassment of having screwed the pooch. And 500 to the rear wheels not so much...your more in the 480 range remember the ratings for a stock Camaro are at the flywheel, a rear wheel loss of 15% manual and 20% automatic more in line with the rear wheel HP, and while more HP is nice, More torque is better... we are heavy and PHAT. And you sure never want to limp it anywhere going lean, a dyno is always better especially load bearing like a Mustang...... My tuner Tommy Wong of Wongs performance engineering has a waiting list months long for a reason. His face book shows why and my Camaro a couple times. Drool..... He is too busy with summer coming up to post crap....
https://www.facebook.com/Wongs-Perfo...-115667950915/

with a good cam, headers and CAI you will be over 500 not to the wheels though. And most prefer a car with high flow cats as it does make my decel popping of my NPP dual mode exhaust really kick and smells so much better with our inherently rich tunes to avoid ever going lean and the massive lift leaving it a gas rich environment out back...

[spartacus459]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Fairly competent in installing your own cam is not where I would be, I use even br30 break in oil and the best tuner in my area. Your specialty tools and measuring for the correct lifter preload and pushrod length are not always so easy, even Robert way whos install DIY had trouble making his own preload and over time I would share this.... .047 is the thread pitch distance for one full turn of the studs on our heads. One turn though with a 1.7 rocker on it equals out to about .070 the preload for LS3 engine and most ls3 are more in the .040-.060 range for quieter valvetrain from the factory..3/4 a turn after zero lash.

And those that used to post here in the earlier days of the gen 5, ( I am on my second), blamed cams..when not doing a break in oil, or break in, and ran the wrong grade oil, or wrong preload which changes with different lifters...and some more preload like the range of the ls7 lifter may be what many want...as its safe in the plunger travel and better to not valve float at high rpms yet does make more typewriter sound especially until warmed up...just like mine. And even the wrong kind of sheer can flatten the roller tip and not turning a roller eats the cam..... So yes I use br30 from driven racing to break in my engine/cams, and I use ls30 after broken in to drive on... I get it form my local Baxter auto parts as they have it in their warehouse because old motor heads like me know the skinny on the oil now a days or else............ SO good luck MR. 13 posts you have about 57350 more to read to prep yourself to change that cam..LOL IMO..... some people who do it themselves fade away to avoid the embarrassment of having screwed the pooch. And 500 to the rear wheels not so much...your more in the 480 range remember the ratings for a stock Camaro are at the flywheel, a rear wheel loss of 15% manual and 20% automatic more in line with the rear wheel HP, and while more HP is nice, More torque is better... we are heavy and PHAT. And you sure never want to limp it anywhere going lean, a dyno is always better especially load bearing like a Mustang...... My tuner Tommy Wong of Wongs performance engineering has a waiting list months long for a reason. His face book shows why and my Camaro a couple times. Drool..... He is too busy with summer coming up to post crap....
https://www.facebook.com/Wongs-Perfo...-115667950915/

with a good cam, headers and CAI you will be over 500 not to the wheels though. And most prefer a car with high flow cats as it does make my decel popping of my NPP dual mode exhaust really kick and smells so much better with our inherently rich tunes to avoid ever going lean and the massive lift leaving it a gas rich environment out back...

Ok than I hear yeah. Than hypothetically how much ball park does a camshaft install cost? Or more how long does one take? The performance shop around here has labor rate at 95/hr and dyno tuning at 225/hr. I don't know if this is high or not I've never taken my car to a performance shop.

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[christianchevell]

Good shops can be north of $2000 plus parts..... And I always buy my own parts...so storing up a grand of so in parts you could be in 3 grand, and then there is the incidentals, break in oil two rounds and filters, anti freeze, maybe recharge the a/c to do it easier...( ac line is a botch for the timing cover), TTY botls the three bolt cam gear and bolts the ls2 dampener and oil pump and the extra money for them to drop the pan and squeeze it in ..is a case of might as well pull the front and drop the cradle....if they can do it at their shop...shops vary. I just have a one guy show, he has other things on the burner, but he took a week for just a cam cost $2400 I think but he had to supply some parts, and his dyno tunes are $550 now, refresh 250$

SO about 2 grand for most with dyno tune but plan on more for most..... parts not included.... oh yes and that damn Washington state sales tax MOFO..... at Wongs performance engineering.... The deal is looking at the dealers labor rates and calculating out from that their rate as most places go by the shop hours plus parts .....at the dealers labor posting for the job not like they have a stop watch...LOL