AC warm from drivers vents, cold from passenger vents - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

InFiD3ViL · 04-24-2020, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeman

Disconnect the actuator servo from the blend door/heater core housing and place something inside to where you can turn the door manually. If it is broken, you will know as you try turning it while feeling the air temp coming from the dash vents.

Yeah, I was going to try some testing tomorrow. Its raining here so I gave up for the day once it got dark.

Would be great if someone came out with a retrofit kit to upgrade the door, maybe something reinforced with metal. This is such a common problem that I am surprised nobody has jumped on this yet.

CamaroBarb · 04-24-2020, 10:51 PM

If you pull the servo you will be able to easily see if the door broke off. The white coupling will be gone laying in the bottom of the duct. You will not be able to work the door manually. At least you'll know its the door or not at that point unless its hanging on by a thread and hasn't dropped down yet. At that point you can work it manually and feel its operation. Good Luck

Richard Cote · 04-25-2020, 09:01 AM

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE

InFiD3ViL · 04-25-2020, 03:57 PM

Update: I just pinched off my heater hoses for about 2 minutes and my AC dropped to around 45º on all vents. Haven't checked the actuator yet. I guess if I really wanted, I can temporarily use a U shaped hose or feedback for the water pump and plug the heater hoses. My concern with that is leaving still or uncirculated coolant sitting in the heater core. I know another member here (sixty9fordkiller) set up a really badass valving system on the heater hoses using Earls fittings and valves.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=558416&page=4

ariZona28 · 04-25-2020, 09:06 PM

Hey, I like that valve set-up. Seems to me you could open them once a month or so and allow fluid to circulate through the core reducing chance for corrosion and/or gunk build-up. Be careful with the heater core fittings however because they can be rather fragile. There is a post somewhere about one getting broken during maintenance. Heater core replacement appears to be a nightmare at best. I'm pretty sure GM placed the heater core on the assembly line 1st, then proceeded to build the car around it.

redcoats1976 · 04-26-2020, 05:29 AM

living in florida one only uses the heater about 3x a year.the a/c,on the other hand,must work.

uvraise · 04-26-2020, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Update: I just pinched off my heater hoses for about 2 minutes and my AC dropped to around 45º on all vents. Haven't checked the actuator yet. I guess if I really wanted, I can temporarily use a U shaped hose or feedback for the water pump and plug the heater hoses. My concern with that is leaving still or uncirculated coolant sitting in the heater core. I know another member here (sixty9fordkiller) set up a really badass valving system on the heater hoses using Earls fittings and valves.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=558416&page=4

For me, the valve thing was a PITA. From what you've described, it's your blend door. If I were you, use the 'U" hose, drain the heater core (Compressed air to purge the core) and cap the lines. If you're only using the heat a few times a year, it seems like a good choice.

InFiD3ViL · 04-26-2020, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uvraise

For me, the valve thing was a PITA. From what you've described, it's your blend door. If I were you, use the 'U" hose, drain the heater core (Compressed air to purge the core) and cap the lines. If you're only using the heat a few times a year, it seems like a good choice.

I may do just that. I have a blend door coming Tuesday, but I am really reluctant to cut a door into the side of the plastic to replace it. I know you will never see it, but I will know it's there.

If I go with the U hose at least I can take time to decide if I really want to do the blend door or not. I know the U hose will work as it got very cold on all vents when I pinched off the heater hoses yesterday.

uvraise · 04-26-2020, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

I may do just that. I have a blend door coming Tuesday, but I am really reluctant to cut a door into the side of the plastic to replace it. I know you will never see it, but I will know it's there.

If I go with the U hose at least I can take time to decide if I really want to do the blend door or not. I know the U hose will work as it got very cold on all vents when I pinched off the heater hoses yesterday.

It'll work just fine. That was my fix before doing the valves. Then just a couple of weeks ago, I replaced the blend door. Keeping my fingers crossed it doesn't break again, but if it does, it'll be much easier to do the second time around.

InFiD3ViL · 05-01-2020, 10:29 PM

I fixed it, woohoo! My air is so dang cold now in all vents.

Got the blend door, did the ole' blend door hack all the cool kids do. I seriously need to get younger, because that kicked my ass. I took my drivers seat out in literally like 3 minutes. I am not sure how some of you guys can do this without removing the driver's seat.

As soon as I took the actuator off the case the little white gear knob fell inside, so I knew right away the the door was fully broken. Got it all back together and used the GM diagnostics software to do a HVAC Relearn. It's all working great now.

Thanks all that helped!

Oh yeah, I sealed it back up with Flex Tape. Thanks Phil Swift! That stuff is seriously awesome. Now I am going to go saw my Camaro in half!

CamaroBarb · 05-01-2020, 11:58 PM

What did you use to cut the plastic?

InFiD3ViL · 05-02-2020, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroBarb

What did you use to cut the plastic?

An oscillating multi tool like one of these suckers. I used the wood/plastic blade. It made it a very clean cut:

https://www.harborfreight.com/Variab...ool-63113.html

CamaroBarb · 05-02-2020, 06:35 AM

Nice, I have a similar tool. My blend door still operates and I installed a hot water shut off valve just in case its 90 and it breaks.

uvraise · 05-02-2020, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

I fixed it, woohoo! My air is so dang cold now in all vents.

Got the blend door, did the ole' blend door hack all the cool kids do. I seriously need to get younger, because that kicked my ass. I took my drivers seat out in literally like 3 minutes. I am not sure how some of you guys can do this without removing the driver's seat.

As soon as I took the actuator off the case the little white gear knob fell inside, so I knew right away the the door was fully broken. Got it all back together and used the GM diagnostics software to do a HVAC Relearn. It's all working great now.

Thanks all that helped!

Oh yeah, I sealed it back up with Flex Tape. Thanks Phil Swift! That stuff is seriously awesome. Now I am going to go saw my Camaro in half!

My back was killing me for about three days afterwards!

04-25-2020, 03:57 PM	#18
InFiD3ViL Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 4,735	Update: I just pinched off my heater hoses for about 2 minutes and my AC dropped to around 45º on all vents. Haven't checked the actuator yet. I guess if I really wanted, I can temporarily use a U shaped hose or feedback for the water pump and plug the heater hoses. My concern with that is leaving still or uncirculated coolant sitting in the heater core. I know another member here (sixty9fordkiller) set up a really badass valving system on the heater hoses using Earls fittings and valves. https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=558416&page=4 __________________ 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI Last edited by InFiD3ViL; 04-25-2020 at 06:26 PM.

04-25-2020, 09:06 PM	#19
ariZona28 Give speed a chance Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28 Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 2,767	Hey, I like that valve set-up. Seems to me you could open them once a month or so and allow fluid to circulate through the core reducing chance for corrosion and/or gunk build-up. Be careful with the heater core fittings however because they can be rather fragile. There is a post somewhere about one getting broken during maintenance. Heater core replacement appears to be a nightmare at best. I'm pretty sure GM placed the heater core on the assembly line 1st, then proceeded to build the car around it. Attached Images __________________ 2LS: a TREMENDOUS machine. Z/28: it's a BIT MORE POWERFUL, of course.

05-01-2020, 10:29 PM	#24
InFiD3ViL Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Spring Hill, FL Posts: 4,735	I fixed it, woohoo! My air is so dang cold now in all vents. Got the blend door, did the ole' blend door hack all the cool kids do. I seriously need to get younger, because that kicked my ass. I took my drivers seat out in literally like 3 minutes. I am not sure how some of you guys can do this without removing the driver's seat. As soon as I took the actuator off the case the little white gear knob fell inside, so I knew right away the the door was fully broken. Got it all back together and used the GM diagnostics software to do a HVAC Relearn. It's all working great now. Thanks all that helped! Oh yeah, I sealed it back up with Flex Tape. Thanks Phil Swift! That stuff is seriously awesome. Now I am going to go saw my Camaro in half! __________________ 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI Last edited by InFiD3ViL; 05-01-2020 at 11:16 PM.

04-24-2020, 10:51 PM	#16
CamaroBarb Banned Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: usa Posts: 575	If you pull the servo you will be able to easily see if the door broke off. The white coupling will be gone laying in the bottom of the duct. You will not be able to work the door manually. At least you'll know its the door or not at that point unless its hanging on by a thread and hasn't dropped down yet. At that point you can work it manually and feel its operation. Good Luck

04-25-2020, 09:01 AM	#17
Richard Cote Drives: 87 Corvette & 2010 SS Camaro Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Robinson Tx. Posts: 29	https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE

04-26-2020, 05:29 AM	#20
redcoats1976 Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: central florida Posts: 5,023	living in florida one only uses the heater about 3x a year.the a/c,on the other hand,must work.

05-01-2020, 11:58 PM	#25
CamaroBarb Banned Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: usa Posts: 575	What did you use to cut the plastic?

05-02-2020, 06:35 AM	#27
CamaroBarb Banned Drives: cheby Camaro Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: usa Posts: 575	Nice, I have a similar tool. My blend door still operates and I installed a hot water shut off valve just in case its 90 and it breaks.