07-17-2020, 08:26 AM | #15 | |
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There is always some metal particles and the like that will flush out with the fluid changes, but also, this allows everything to "settle" and gears to work into each other properly. Will not following break in cause a failure? No, but it could lead to issues down the road that you could have easily avoided by following the proper break in. |
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07-17-2020, 08:30 AM | #16 | |
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There's also the chance that pushing the car too hard too quickly could cause higher pressure in certain areas of the various cavities and lines that carry fluids which could cause leaks if not all of the various seals have completely seated. As already said... break-in period goes by very quickly. On a car that one is likely going to drive at least 10-15k miles, 1500 miles represents 1% of the total miles to be driven. And, the more miles you ultimately drive your Camaro, the lower the percentage becomes for the break-in period. Suck it up and do it right. |
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07-17-2020, 08:31 AM | #17 |
Drives: like an old lady Join Date: Jun 2012
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its gonna break or its gonna break in
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07-17-2020, 08:36 AM | #18 | |
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I am a firm believer in following recommended break in. It is easy insurance and only time, no cost involved, Not following could involve cost, sooner or later..... |
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07-17-2020, 08:48 AM | #19 |
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ill be honest. i've never followed break in with anything automotive related, exception to a flat tappet camshaft. everything else...? send it. clutches, ring and pinion, hyd roller engines whatever. never had a failure.
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07-17-2020, 09:26 AM | #20 | |
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Seriously you need to VARY RPM and LOAD
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2019 ZL-1 Acquired 4/23/21 at 6300 miles. Riverside Blue, A10, PDR. Traded in 2017 2SS with 6M and 32k miles. Continental Extreme Contact Sports. Now has 10,000 miles...
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07-17-2020, 09:45 AM | #21 |
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Yes, but stay within the "middle-of-the-road" operating parameters and don't hit the extremes during break-in. In other words, stay under 4k RPM (as suggested), don't exceed 80MPH or so (especially if you're going to stay at that speed and "cruise"), don't use Cruise Control (which will hold your speed and RPM constant), etc.
You can absolutely drive it with a bit of "giddy up", but don't push it to its limits during break-in. This car (the 6.2L) can get up and go... quickly... and it brings a smile to your face when do that. But, you don't need to be figuring out your 0-60, 0-100, 0-60-0, or 0-100-0 times right away. I bought a 2006 Acura TL new and broke it in according to Acura's recommendations. That car drove flawlessly at 50,000 miles and was butter smooth. I bought a 2008 Acura TL used (same exact options and color even as my 2006). That car never got the great MPG that my 2006 did, and it didn't have that butter smooth feel to the motor OR the transmission. Breaking the car in correctly has value beyond wether or not you'll void warranties or possibly even "break something." |
07-17-2020, 09:50 AM | #22 |
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07-17-2020, 09:57 AM | #23 |
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Fact of the matter is this: there's absolutely zero evidence that lack of a prescribed break-in was ever the detrimental factor in engine/trans/diff failures. There's not one case. And two, you think the service Department asks these questions or has some basis on a claim in that regard? (rhetorical).
It's akin to audiophiles thinking you need test tones and such to break in the rubber surround on a speaker. To a low point its ridiculous. |
07-17-2020, 10:20 AM | #24 | |
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Your comparison to audio equipment isn't on par. Whether there's value in or not, the reality is that operating a loudspeaker in a matter that flexes the material of the speaker is somewhat akin to "softening" leather. Prove that softening the leather in a chair doesn't make it more comfortable and/or wear better over time. Again, you can't. In the case of a car, we aren't trying to "wear in" flexible parts, so it isn't a good comparison. Finally, it doesn't matter whether break-in is or isn't ever related to failure because it absolutely IS related to various aspects of operation that can be measured in other areas. As mentioned already, the MPG of my 2006 TL was far superior to that of the 2008 TL that owned. Identical cars right down to the paint color. The difference was that -I- broke the 2006 in and did it according to Acura's directions. Someone else broke in the 2008 and my guess is that it was NOT done in the same manner and that's why it suffered. As far as dealers asking questions, they don't have to. The data is stored in the car. And, if you (or the previous owner in the case of buying used) agreed to all of the stupid privacy policies in the car with the different features, GM has been collecting that data over the life of the car and they absolutely WILL use it if they can to deny a warranty claim... Even claims that aren't related. |
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07-17-2020, 10:50 AM | #25 |
The rings are set before you get the car, so the rest is break-in, so I would vary speeds etc, but you don't need to drive like your trying to seat the rings.
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07-17-2020, 10:53 AM | #26 | |
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07-17-2020, 10:56 AM | #27 | |
Drives: SS A8, NPP, Red Hot Join Date: Jan 2019
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07-17-2020, 11:19 AM | #28 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2.0T, 91 Miata Join Date: Jan 2020
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I view it much like wearing a mask out in public. If it doesn't matter, all I'm out is having to wear a mask, if it keeps me from catching covid then excellent, I'll probably never know for sure though. Or like when the light goes green and you start going, glance over to make sure traffic is stopping. Even if it's the person who ran the lights fault, you still have to deal with being in an accident.
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