Oil pressure sensor

[LS3M6]

Update. Got it off in the end. If your sensor has been installed with the grey clip and release tab facing hard up against the back of the intake manifold like mine was, you need to remove the grey clip completely not just pull it up or you can't get to the release tab. So you don't lose the grey clip while getting it off, stick some tape to it and hang on to the other end of the tape so the clip doesn't disappear somewhere when you try to get it off. Once that grey clip is "totally" out of the way, now you can get to the release tab and pull the wiring from the sensor. Most probably won't have this problem but I'm adding this info in case someone finds their sensor release clips are facing hard up against the intake, which makes it super hard to get it off.

[JohnnyComeLately]

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread. About 3 months ago, my L99 Camaro SS/RS, 2010, with about 110,000 miles had the oil pressure sensor throw a DTC and the gauge started going wonky. The initial sign was my remote start stopped working, and it did it on a trip to the vet, on the way home (so the car was on and warm).

I used a Sears Craftsman 1/2" drive ratchet with no universal joint. The U-joint made the whole thing too tall, and hit the bottom of the cowl. I also used a Sears Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar in the socket to "break it." A 27mm impact socket was too thick walled to slide over the sensor. I have a FAST LSXR aftermarket intake, which may have impaired straight access and the ability of the socket to slide straight over it. I ended up using a standard 1 1/16" deep socket, which seemed to fit exactly the same at the 27mm.

I used the socket turned by hand, once resistance was light and then it came right out. I used the part number I've seen on multiple YouTube videos, that stated it came with a filter, but mine did not. I really irritated the GM Parts Counter guy by asking, "Are you SURE there's not a different version that comes with a filter?" He even showed me the parts "blow up view," which didn't have one for my 2010 SS L99 engine, so I relented.

For the tab on the connector, the white tab slides up and then you can press to release (see my pics). It works with and without the white tab in place, however if the white tab slides down, pressing is locked (won't release).

Reversing, I hand tightened the new sensor on with the socket, again.. by hand. You'll get 3-4 rotations and then put the ratchet on. It makes weird sounds that will SORTA sound like aluminum stripping which freaked me the f' out. Then I put my 1/2 Sears (sense a trend here and how much I'm aging myself?) torque wrench set to 26 foot pounds. About 1/2 rotation got the tell-tale torque wrench "Click", and put away all my tools

Pulled out my diagnostic tester, had the OBD2 system re-run all it's diagnostic tests which passed for everything engine related (there were nags about my LED tail lights because I haven't gotten around to soldering in the resistors to fool the ECM). Side note: I had replaced the battery which reset the ECM. The SES light is gone, but it will come back relatively soon once it figures out the sensor is bad. Also, I started getting "!" (huge exclamation point) on the instrument cluster with warning below "No Oil Pressure! Turn car off immediately" (or something just about as startling).

Once the OBD2 rescanned, I started the car, Service Engine light was gone, and most importantly, the oil pressure gauge in my 4-gauge cluster, is now showing a correct pressure reading.

I let the car idle about 15 minutes while watching for any oil below the car. None found. And then finally ran my hand around the sensor base and the immediate area in case there was a slow leak that just hadn't made its way to the bottom of the car yet. Clean.

Again, thank you to everyone here... your comments, observations and insight made it much easier. In the pics below, the white tab is removed. I kept mine in there when re-assembling. You can remove it without breaking the clip.

Also, for anyone new to engine mechanics, the easiest way to tell the difference between a REAL loss of oil pressure and a bad gauge is to listen. Your lifters in your heads are pumping up and down 1,000s of times a minute. If there's no oil pressure they will clack really loud. If your oil pressure is good, your engine should not "sound" any different. For a different way to think about it, if you've ever heard a "noisy" engine get much quieter when you change the oil, it's the same "change" you're listening for (except for it to now be louder).

**DISCLAIMER** These are just tips, but your mileage will vary and if you're not sure of your skills, tow it to a dealer.