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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Blk/Blk 2018 Sierra SLT Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Golden State
Posts: 2,925
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Thanks for the replys! Another question...
3/8" or 1/2" drive? |
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#16 |
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What do you want? 1/2 is bigger, so most likely stronger.
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#17 |
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Thread Killer
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Snap-On
Can be nice as parts inter change. For tight places work you can ask your tool guy to install a 1/4in rachet head to the 3/8 torque wrench body, or the 3/8 head to the 1/2 body....... The 1/4 on 3/8s is the best though |
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#18 |
![]() Drives: 2010 SS2/RS Victory Red Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Here and Now
Posts: 387
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Matco has come out with an electronic torque wrench that has a built in angle gauge. An angle gauge is a must for car fasteners that are torque to yield. It is a little pricey but worth it in a professional environment. If you are looking for one as a hobbyist, the Craftsman might be ok, but I've never owned one.
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#19 |
![]() Drives: 2010 ABM 2SS RS 2008 Trailblazer Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Chicagoish Illinois
Posts: 186
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I would go with the Snap On. I have a 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 all snap on and all of them work great. I have had them for years aand they never failed me. They cost more, but you get what you pay for.
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#20 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 11 IOM 2SS/RS M6 w/Hurst Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 1,269
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Get yourself a CDI clicker torque wrench. CDI is a subsidiary of Snapon. As long as you put the torque setting at the lowest setting when you are done using it you will be fine. If you can swing it get a split beam torque wrent, all the benefits of a clicker without the inherent spring issue.
Also I would recommend getting a 3/8 inch wrench. Make sure you get it where the torque that you are going to be using is about in the middle of the wrenches range. Pointer type wrenches are usually the least worrisome to use, however you run into the issue of eyeball deflection when using them, ie making sure you have a good line of sight to see the pointer and the measurement. Sometimes this can be tricky and mess up your torque reading. Hope this helps and I would again recommend CDI. I use them on my vehicles/bike and have no issues. K |
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#21 |
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Master of All Things
Drives: '26 Corvette Stingray Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 22,705
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Snap-on, dial type........in my job, we REQUIRE the highest standards of workmenship....a lot of peoples lives depends on our equipment......so we use the best.
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#22 | |
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N7 Spectre
Drives: 14 ATS Performance 3.6L AWD Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Moosomin, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 2,732
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Quote:
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#23 |
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Gunning for Sixth
Drives: '03 ZR2 Blazer Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Woodhaven, Michigan
Posts: 9,358
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#24 | |
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Master of All Things
Drives: '26 Corvette Stingray Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 22,705
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Quote:
but BOTH, in the military, and in my current job.........hence my name
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#25 |
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Orange GM freak
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I have a Cornwell click type. Most of the new stuff is torque to yield that requires a degree of rotation.
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