Exhaust Banging on floor under trunk - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

brantley847 · 06-16-2010, 10:41 PM

from someone who has limited knowledge of the exhaust system....is this an issue that could damage the system or vehicle itself over time....or is this just a mere annoyance.

HeavyD · 06-17-2010, 08:54 AM

With stiff suspension, something has to give somewhere. As for damage, well, after time where the exhaust is hitting the bracket will start to wear through the pipe and form a hole. How long and how bad depends on too many variables. If your system is stock, thats easy, warranty. If your system is custom, thats easy, jack up your car, loosen a couple of clamps and reposition. Unless the banging is really bad, I would feel ok waiting until the next oil change to jack it up if you don't have time or whatever.

caperss · 06-29-2010, 07:30 PM

I started this thread and wanted everyone to know how it was finally corrected. I dropped my SS off at Best Chevrolet in Hingham Mass and asked them to check into the banging coming from my rh rr exhaust hitting thr floor. The next day they called me and said they couldnt find any problem nor could they recreate the bang. The Service MGR Shawn (good guy) went for a ride with me and I could only get it to bang once and not a very good bang but he did agree he heard something back there. When we got back he asked if I wanted to leave it another day and I said yeah but lets just put it up in the air again and I'll show you where I think the trouble is. once in the air we looked it over and the clearance looked fine but I said let me hit the pipes from underneeth right about where the rear dif is, Sure enouigh it didnt hit at the brace but we could all see how much the front half of the exhaust system flexed up and down and I asked him if he would put some shims or spacers between the cross brace and the floor, I asked the mechanic to give me about a quarter inch or so. He installed some washers and gave it back to me. Well I drove it on all those nasty Boston roads that always made it bang and not once did that bang show its ugly face. Problem solved and I called Shawn to tell him just in case he had others with the same complaint. I dont know why there isnt any forward braces on this exhaust up front because the stock system realy bounces alot. Anyway I am a happy guy now and no more bangs. If I could only get the rest of the front suspension to quiet down some Id really be happy. Maybe my tires are overinflated and causing some of the feedback I am hearing from the front. Anyone else think their front end transmits more noise than it should? Any ideas?

Slowhawk · 06-29-2010, 07:36 PM

The exhaust is a crappy design with no braces up front.That would solve alot of exhaust problems.

topgun1 · 06-30-2010, 07:51 AM

i rattled something loose the other day when i went over a curb and it definitely makes a thud when hitting a bump now. my exhaust is all aftermarket, so got to get that in to my guy to look at it up on the lift. I didn't see anything different at the time. man i felt like an idiot when that happened.

Hicompression · 06-30-2010, 08:23 AM

Slip fit connections on aftermarket systems will move and sag. It's the nature of the beast. The only way to stop it is to weld the connections.

On the other hand, exhaust banging around on a stock "welded" system is totally unnacceptable and is a factory quality control issue.

se7en · 06-30-2010, 08:34 AM

Whats happens with most aftermarket exhausts is they settle or drop down a bit when they are cold. Typically you'll hear the rattle at first and then it may dissipate after the exhaust has warmed up. When it warms up the entire exhaust system actually pulls together and tightens up. For some the rattle may then go away and for other's it may not. (as in my case)
Even after adjusting the entire exhaust the Illinois cold would drop my exhaust down again and i would hear the rattling for the first few miles and everytime i hit a bump.
I used some thick washer's on the tunnel brace to help this and it works fine on mine, but you can also have your local exhaust shop tack weld some braces to hold the exhaust up (shouldn't be more than $50 at the most). Personally this isnt the route i would take, but for some it will drive you crazy hearing that noise.

se7en · 06-30-2010, 08:44 AM

This is also the reason why most instructions with aftermarket exhaust say to heat up the system and tighten the bolts while its hot.
Once you do that let the system cool off and then retighten them again to help ensure that it stays up.

Hicompression · 06-30-2010, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bws_82

Whats happens with most aftermarket exhausts is they settle or drop down a bit when they are cold. Typically you'll hear the rattle at first and then it may dissipate after the exhaust has warmed up. When it warms up the entire exhaust system actually pulls together and tightens up. For some the rattle may then go away and for other's it may not. (as in my case)

Typically metal expands (thermal expansion) when it heats up (system grows in length and diameter). The system typically will not get shorter and stop banging. You have to realize that at your slip fit connections (stainless to stainless), the female end is expanding at the same rate the male end is expanding. If anything, I have experienced the exact opposite of what you have experienced. In the past, when my exhaust has heated up, banging has gotten worse as the whole exhaust system expands.

However, exhaust leaks may seal up at say...where the cast iron exhaust manifold flange and a downpipe meet because the cast iron has a different thermal expansion coefficient than the stainless steel downpipe. One material is expanding at a different rate than the other which seals the leak.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bws_82

This is also the reason why most instructions with aftermarket exhaust say to heat up the system and tighten the bolts while its hot.
Once you do that let the system cool off and then retighten them again to help ensure that it stays up

I've installed tons of systems throughout the years from several different manufacturers and I have NEVER seen that statement.

SMGSS · 06-30-2010, 11:35 AM

make sure everything is tight, and check your clearances before tightening.

Or just pick up an ARH System

2010SLVRBULIT · 06-30-2010, 11:48 AM

gonna lock-tite the bolts on my AM exhaust so they don't work their way loose.

HeavyD · 06-30-2010, 12:06 PM

I took mine in last week to my brother's shop. Put the car on the hoist and sure enough, the exhaust was hitting the cross brace. The exhaust set, (MBRP) had settled about 1/8" above the bracket and would hit at any moderate bump. No damage. So he used an adjustable, tall, jack stand to raise the exhaust all the way up till it was hitting the top of the tunnel, loosened the front couple of clamps and, gave it all a shake, and then retightened. It settled nicely right about in the middle. I then grabbed and tried to force it down to the bracket and it would not hit. Easy. Took 12 mins. A week later, still ok. My brother used his impact gun and said the clamps were too loose. I followed the instructions during assembly, but I thought the torque specs were a bit light too. Trust me, you will not crush the pipes. The clamp bolt will break first before SS pipes will start to crush.

se7en · 07-01-2010, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hicompression

Typically metal expands (thermal expansion) when it heats up (system grows in length and diameter). The system typically will not get shorter and stop banging. You have to realize that at your slip fit connections (stainless to stainless), the female end is expanding at the same rate the male end is expanding. If anything, I have experienced the exact opposite of what you have experienced. In the past, when my exhaust has heated up, banging has gotten worse as the whole exhaust system expands.

However, exhaust leaks may seal up at say...where the cast iron exhaust manifold flange and a downpipe meet because the cast iron has a different thermal expansion coefficient than the stainless steel downpipe. One material is expanding at a different rate than the other which seals the leak.

I've installed tons of systems throughout the years from several different manufacturers and I have NEVER seen that statement.

Give them a call sometime. I guarantee you their tech's will tell you the same thing.

I understand and take in account that every system is going to be different and like you said: our opinions are based on past experiences, but the system WILL lift up once it gets hot. Some may lift (tighten-up) just a hair and others a lot, but the hotter they get the tighter it becomes.

I wish other things in life would act the same way!

caperss · 07-06-2010, 07:14 PM

I agree that the design is poor and clearence is not enough for the street. Now that my brace has been lowered that terrible bang is gone but it still sounds like it has a lot of rattles in the suspension and I get a lot of tire noise. I did fine one more rattle for all of you to check. The LH inner fender piece (plastic) just sits there loose. It jumps around so I slid some foam between the plastic and steel in the front just behind the WSW bottle and it got a bit quieter but I expect less rattles. The car should be tight when hitting a bump but mine just sounds loose like there are more bits just flopping around between panels but as of yet I havent found anything. Does anyone else feel this way?

06-29-2010, 07:30 PM	#17
caperss Drives: 2010 camaro 2SS/RS red white stripe Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Rockland, MA Posts: 23	Problem solved with exhaust banging on the floor I started this thread and wanted everyone to know how it was finally corrected. I dropped my SS off at Best Chevrolet in Hingham Mass and asked them to check into the banging coming from my rh rr exhaust hitting thr floor. The next day they called me and said they couldnt find any problem nor could they recreate the bang. The Service MGR Shawn (good guy) went for a ride with me and I could only get it to bang once and not a very good bang but he did agree he heard something back there. When we got back he asked if I wanted to leave it another day and I said yeah but lets just put it up in the air again and I'll show you where I think the trouble is. once in the air we looked it over and the clearance looked fine but I said let me hit the pipes from underneeth right about where the rear dif is, Sure enouigh it didnt hit at the brace but we could all see how much the front half of the exhaust system flexed up and down and I asked him if he would put some shims or spacers between the cross brace and the floor, I asked the mechanic to give me about a quarter inch or so. He installed some washers and gave it back to me. Well I drove it on all those nasty Boston roads that always made it bang and not once did that bang show its ugly face. Problem solved and I called Shawn to tell him just in case he had others with the same complaint. I dont know why there isnt any forward braces on this exhaust up front because the stock system realy bounces alot. Anyway I am a happy guy now and no more bangs. If I could only get the rest of the front suspension to quiet down some Id really be happy. Maybe my tires are overinflated and causing some of the feedback I am hearing from the front. Anyone else think their front end transmits more noise than it should? Any ideas?

06-30-2010, 07:51 AM	#19
topgun1 Drives: 10 SIM 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: May 2008 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 1,939 View My Garage	i rattled something loose the other day when i went over a curb and it definitely makes a thud when hitting a bump now. my exhaust is all aftermarket, so got to get that in to my guy to look at it up on the lift. I didn't see anything different at the time. man i felt like an idiot when that happened. __________________ 5th Gen Camaros of the Carolinas SIM, 2SS/RS LS3 5/7/11 453.9 RWHP 427.5 RWTQ VMS Stage 2.5 Comp Cams kit, Cold Air Inductions intake, ADM race scoop, DT 1 3/4" headers, Solo cats, 3" Magnaflow catback, Pypes cutouts, HP tune, H&R SuperSport springs, Eibach sways/spacers, TexasSpeed UD pulley, LSR tensioner pulley, Barton shifter, skip shift eliminator, powder-coated calipers, R1 concept rotors, StopTech pads, Granatelli wires, Lloyds mats, tint, AAC afterburner taillamps, AAC scanner/sidemarkers, SRP pedals, custom engine cover, black bowties, Ridergraphix hood spears....

06-30-2010, 08:23 AM	#20
Hicompression Rumbly Bumble Bee Drives: 2010 2SS Camaro Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: DFW Posts: 1,468	Slip fit connections on aftermarket systems will move and sag. It's the nature of the beast. The only way to stop it is to weld the connections. On the other hand, exhaust banging around on a stock "welded" system is totally unnacceptable and is a factory quality control issue. __________________ 2010 RALLY YELLOW 2SS 6M -OBX Longtubes FTW!

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06-16-2010, 10:41 PM	#15
brantley847 v It bites. Drives: 2011 IBM 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2008 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 3,580	from someone who has limited knowledge of the exhaust system....is this an issue that could damage the system or vehicle itself over time....or is this just a mere annoyance.

06-17-2010, 08:54 AM	#16
HeavyD Drives: 1SSRS RY L99 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Ontario Posts: 1,323	With stiff suspension, something has to give somewhere. As for damage, well, after time where the exhaust is hitting the bracket will start to wear through the pipe and form a hole. How long and how bad depends on too many variables. If your system is stock, thats easy, warranty. If your system is custom, thats easy, jack up your car, loosen a couple of clamps and reposition. Unless the banging is really bad, I would feel ok waiting until the next oil change to jack it up if you don't have time or whatever.

06-29-2010, 07:36 PM	#18
Slowhawk Drives: 1999 Trans Am Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Bridgewater,Ma Posts: 2,018	The exhaust is a crappy design with no braces up front.That would solve alot of exhaust problems.

06-30-2010, 08:34 AM	#21
se7en Drives: 10 Procharged SS Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: The creek at the end of the dead end road Posts: 1,857	Whats happens with most aftermarket exhausts is they settle or drop down a bit when they are cold. Typically you'll hear the rattle at first and then it may dissipate after the exhaust has warmed up. When it warms up the entire exhaust system actually pulls together and tightens up. For some the rattle may then go away and for other's it may not. (as in my case) Even after adjusting the entire exhaust the Illinois cold would drop my exhaust down again and i would hear the rattling for the first few miles and everytime i hit a bump. I used some thick washer's on the tunnel brace to help this and it works fine on mine, but you can also have your local exhaust shop tack weld some braces to hold the exhaust up (shouldn't be more than $50 at the most). Personally this isnt the route i would take, but for some it will drive you crazy hearing that noise.

06-30-2010, 08:44 AM	#22
se7en Drives: 10 Procharged SS Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: The creek at the end of the dead end road Posts: 1,857	This is also the reason why most instructions with aftermarket exhaust say to heat up the system and tighten the bolts while its hot. Once you do that let the system cool off and then retighten them again to help ensure that it stays up.

06-30-2010, 11:35 AM	#24
SMGSS Drives: 00 SS, 67 SS Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 251	make sure everything is tight, and check your clearances before tightening. Or just pick up an ARH System

06-30-2010, 11:48 AM	#25
2010SLVRBULIT Drives: G5(LLT) & C6(LS3) Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: MARS Posts: 7,525 View My Garage	gonna lock-tite the bolts on my AM exhaust so they don't work their way loose.

06-30-2010, 12:06 PM	#26
HeavyD Drives: 1SSRS RY L99 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Ontario Posts: 1,323	I took mine in last week to my brother's shop. Put the car on the hoist and sure enough, the exhaust was hitting the cross brace. The exhaust set, (MBRP) had settled about 1/8" above the bracket and would hit at any moderate bump. No damage. So he used an adjustable, tall, jack stand to raise the exhaust all the way up till it was hitting the top of the tunnel, loosened the front couple of clamps and, gave it all a shake, and then retightened. It settled nicely right about in the middle. I then grabbed and tried to force it down to the bracket and it would not hit. Easy. Took 12 mins. A week later, still ok. My brother used his impact gun and said the clamps were too loose. I followed the instructions during assembly, but I thought the torque specs were a bit light too. Trust me, you will not crush the pipes. The clamp bolt will break first before SS pipes will start to crush.

07-06-2010, 07:14 PM	#28
caperss Drives: 2010 camaro 2SS/RS red white stripe Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Rockland, MA Posts: 23	I agree that the design is poor and clearence is not enough for the street. Now that my brace has been lowered that terrible bang is gone but it still sounds like it has a lot of rattles in the suspension and I get a lot of tire noise. I did fine one more rattle for all of you to check. The LH inner fender piece (plastic) just sits there loose. It jumps around so I slid some foam between the plastic and steel in the front just behind the WSW bottle and it got a bit quieter but I expect less rattles. The car should be tight when hitting a bump but mine just sounds loose like there are more bits just flopping around between panels but as of yet I havent found anything. Does anyone else feel this way?