JBA SHORTY HEADERS = CEL

[SDCamaro10]

Originally Posted by KMPrenger

I would be frustrated as heck too if I we're you guys...but that said, LTs are not going to be any better for you (at least with the CEL issue). No sure-fire proven method on fighting off the CEL without a tune. People are trying doubling up on 02 extenders, but so far there hasn't been any concrete results from that either. They just seem to prolong the inevitable (spelling on that word lol??). But I sure do hope someone finds a good method without a tune.

You want headers without a CEL....go with the welded Doug Thorleys.

100% agree. LT's will def. give you a CEL. It can be turned off with a tune, but you'll risk your warranty doing that, and to me, it isn't worth it. Have also heard of the O2 extenders, pulls the sensor out a bit, and havent heard anything concrete as to whether it fixes the issue or not.

Doug Thorleys seem to be the way to go, i really want to pick a set of them up. i'll take some JBA's if the price is right, but the DT's are pretty sweet.

[RedJewel2SS]

[2010 4 DW]

If you think the problem is the flange that connects the headers to the mid-pipe why not weld the header in just like the Doug Thorley's.

Then there could be no way it could leak.

Just my 02

[Mankind]

Originally Posted by 2010 4 DW

If you think the problem is the flange that connects the headers to the mid-pipe why not weld the header in just like the Doug Thorley's.

That is what I would do if I could not get the problem to go away. Then there could be no way it could leak.

Just my 02

Agreed. i considered this myself. No CEL from mine since gskt. The DT's are solid welds from header to cat. Why not tack up the stackers, take em down, and do it to them? Would solve all issues attributed to leaks.

[DocHolliday]

Not sure if this helps, or hinders the situation...but if it is a fittment issue, wouldn't it happen on all or at least the majoity of installations?

I ask because I have the JBA shorties installed as well and have never had an issue?

[chevy 3]

Still not shore whyyyyyy.just keeps happining.I am going to weld them and if I get a cell I'll cut them off and just put on a diff kind.trust me if I have to take them off no one will want these when I'm done.

[Mikk2K]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Not sure if this helps, or hinders the situation...but if it is a fittment issue, wouldn't it happen on all or at least the majoity of installations?

I ask because I have the JBA shorties installed as well and have never had an issue?

It only is happing on the headers for the V6. I've got the same problem as everyone else. I've since tried to steer as many people as I can AWAY from JBA. This is too common of an issue to be attributed to installation.

[2010 4 DW]

Originally Posted by Mikk2K

It only is happing on the headers for the V6. I've got the same problem as everyone else. I've since tried to steer as many people as I can AWAY from JBA. This is too common of an issue to be attributed to installation.

I work at a shop and we have done eight sets and none of them have had a CEL. The main thing is to put the clamp on the headers & stacker flange. Tighten the clamp and then bring the cut mid-pipe up to the header/flange and tack it in place. This way it is seated perfectly straight and will not leak. We also put Hi-Temp Red RTV between the flanges to help ensure a leak proof seal.

Just some good info if you are having problems.

DW

[chevy 3]

Done that set up twice .put header on then flang with that crappy clamp and tightin .weld the down pipe in place and take the down pipe out and finish weld.pritty easy to figure out .pritty strait forword on install I've done much harder hear install than this .it's realy chalenging my man hood.I just don't like having a brand new frigging car and a nice new cell.when I have the time I'm def going to weld in place.or put my own flanges on .

[speedy_g]

Originally Posted by 2010 4 DW

I work at a shop and we have done eight sets and none of them have had a CEL. The main thing is to put the clamp on the headers & stacker flange. Tighten the clamp and then bring the cut mid-pipe up to the header/flange and tack it in place. This way it is seated perfectly straight and will not leak. We also put Hi-Temp Red RTV between the flanges to help ensure a leak proof seal.

Just some good info if you are having problems.

DW

Thanks but I did that ! High temp red rtv is rated at 600 deg I believe, is that high enough?

[speedy_g]

Originally Posted by RedJewel2SS

THANKS !

[2010 4 DW]

Originally Posted by speedy_g

Thanks but I did that ! High temp red rtv is rated at 600 deg I believe, is that high enough?

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878.../dp/B001B3BM98

700 and this will be fine on the flanges.

[speedy_g]

Originally Posted by 2010 4 DW

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878.../dp/B001B3BM98

700 and this will be fine on the flanges.

Ok ya I went with the copper stuff the 1st time and it flaked right off ..I'm going to invest in a temp gun. To see real temps I guess. This weekend I'm trying new type of clamp ill see if works and I ordered 2 grafoil gaskets from granger if this don't work I'm done with them !

[chevy 3]

What tipe of clamp are you changing to.I'm interested in this clamp