Modifying your Airaid air box - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

chozn4service · 07-28-2010, 05:37 PM

I followed Kga's lead on this modification and what was once a hot tube, I mean really hot after driving, the tube is now mainly warm. I think this has drastically reduced the temps the airtube was getting by additional holes in the box away from the engine side of business.

As for neat, I used a spring loaded cener punch to mark my holes and had at it.
I also put three holes in the very bottom but that was only to allow washer fluid to drain out.

Overall, I'm happy has a fat rat in a cheese factory with my Airaid, the V2 tube and the added punch/response I've noticed since I've added the addtional holes.

mydreamcar · 07-28-2010, 07:25 PM

hmm, got to try great idea, i did the IAT relocation already, would it be okay to punch all those holes and still keep the IAT relocation or would you really need to hook up the old IAT. I saw that you did in your post, wouldn't all that air flow be better for the IAT relocation anyway??

merlin803 · 07-28-2010, 10:09 PM

Placed my order tonight, someone hurry up and run some tests so I know if I need to buy a center punch, LOL

VR Baron · 07-29-2010, 01:22 AM

Me to you all. KGA and I did it about the same time and I concur with the findings, better resonse, sound and the air tube is just warm now not hot.
Hey KGA, I added some more holes! I now have:
1. one at 1x4" in the bottom
2. the rect one adjacent to the stock inlet is now 3x5"
3. added 7 holes .75" dia below and to the side of the bottle, front panel.
I think it is enough as I didn't notice any real extra gain but will monitor it. Any more holes and I might as well drill some in my head! This is just to much fun man!!

VR Baron · 07-29-2010, 11:15 PM

Driving impressions today
1. to work, 66 deg out ,same usual response.
opened hood at work when I got there and tube was just barely warm. I could feel cool air coming in or being sucked in the holes in the front panel of the box. Only hot part of box was the curved side abd back facing the engine. The wall where the tube is was just warm and the front and fendor side panel were cool.Also the air and area at the hole in the bottom also is cool all the time, never any heat. Fender lower hole also always cool.
2. Drove home in usual traffic. temp at 78 degrees. tube was warmer now as air temp was higher and engine temp was up to 210 at some points versus 200 in the a.m..noticed stock inlet tube is barely warm where as in the morning was cool.
All else applies regards cool/warm areas, just a little warmer as to be expected.
Car still seems to react very close as if having the IAT mod done and the way it made the car run.

kga10734 · 07-30-2010, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mydreamcar

hmm, got to try great idea, i did the IAT relocation already, would it be okay to punch all those holes and still keep the IAT relocation or would you really need to hook up the old IAT. I saw that you did in your post, wouldn't all that air flow be better for the IAT relocation anyway??

I put the IAT back to stock location because I figured if there was more cool air going into the intake it should be OK there and no need to relocate it. Also as posted by JRE, the temps were rising when they had their foot in the gas(accelerating) and the temps would drop when they let off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by merlin803

Placed my order tonight, someone hurry up and run some tests so I know if I need to buy a center punch, LOL

I just put the drill bit in the drill and eyeballed my holes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by chozn4service

I followed Kga's lead on this modification and what was once a hot tube, I mean really hot after driving, the tube is now mainly warm. I think this has drastically reduced the temps the airtube was getting by additional holes in the box away from the engine side of business.

As for neat, I used a spring loaded cener punch to mark my holes and had at it.
I also put three holes in the very bottom but that was only to allow washer fluid to drain out.

Overall, I'm happy has a fat rat in a cheese factory with my Airaid, the V2 tube and the added punch/response I've noticed since I've added the addtional holes.

Last 2 days I have driven home in mid 90's temps and roughly 75% humidity. I drove it hard and when I got home both days I popped the hood right away. The intake tube is definitely cooler then it has been which should be dropping the air temps inside the intake tube while accelerating. The intake tube is warm but no where near as hot as the engine cover. Before, the intake tube was as hot or hotter then the engine cover. You almost couldn't even put your hand on the tube.

I plan on playing around with the idea of a shield this weekend to block off as much of the engine bay from the intake side of the air box to try and get as much cool air from outside the car as possible.

Toasty · 07-30-2010, 12:38 AM

somebody's gotta have one of them infrared thermometers to measure the temp of the tube before/after!

navyblue2000 · 07-30-2010, 08:56 AM

I'm just curious...has anyone while doing these temperature tests taken the engine cover off? It sounds a bit silly, but...
I had a cobalt, and when the engine cover was on the temps in the engine bay were noticeably hotter. On the cobalt, at least, the engine cover did help keep some of the noise down, but it did keep things hotter under it. I wonder if 1) taking the engine cover off would help get some heat out of there and thus 2) possibly lower IAT sensor temperature readings. Just a thought.

ROD1 · 07-30-2010, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by navyblue2000

I'm just curious...has anyone while doing these temperature tests taken the engine cover off? It sounds a bit silly, but...
I had a cobalt, and when the engine cover was on the temps in the engine bay were noticeably hotter. On the cobalt, at least, the engine cover did help keep some of the noise down, but it did keep things hotter under it. I wonder if 1) taking the engine cover off would help get some heat out of there and thus 2) possibly lower IAT sensor temperature readings. Just a thought.

Im seriously considering making the cowl hood functional to let more air through. I seldom drive in the rain and Im sure it would make things cooler under the hood and it would probably be much better with the engine cover off. I removed mine some time ago but more for popping the hood and allowing the engine to cool between runs.

Mankind · 07-30-2010, 09:21 AM

After reading all the ideas and suggestions i have a question. The holes you drilled look pretty kool by the way. Has anyone tried using, say a flexible or universal radiator hose, some kind of tube attached to the box running down to the lwoer fender area like the injen location? You shouldn't risk water lock beacause you are drawing air from the top snorkel as well. Was thinking it might help with cooler air coming from the lower opening of the front facia being sucked through a 2 inch, or so, tube back up top. This set up made some really good numbers with just the snorkel, add more cool air and maybe get even better numbers. Just a thought.

merlin803 · 07-30-2010, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mankind

After reading all the ideas and suggestions i have a question. The holes you drilled look pretty kool by the way. Has anyone tried using, say a flexible or universal radiator hose, some kind of tube attached to the box running down to the lwoer fender area like the injen location? You shouldn't risk water lock beacause you are drawing air from the top snorkel as well. Was thinking it might help with cooler air coming from the lower opening of the front facia being sucked through a 2 inch, or so, tube back up top. This set up made some really good numbers with just the snorkel, add more cool air and maybe get even better numbers. Just a thought.

That is a really interesting idea. Is there any possible negatives to getting more air or is it "the more the better"?

SchwarzerDrache · 07-30-2010, 10:02 AM

Does anyone have any pics of the CAI inc. box? I think that had extra holes already and it might be a good pattern to follow.

PieNsky · 07-30-2010, 10:26 AM

IIRC, Jannetty said that they had the one and only, at lest for a short while.

VR Baron · 07-30-2010, 11:07 PM

I took some temp readings today but didn't write them down so its memory time.Air temp 76, usual stop and go traffic. I stopped at the store which of course got some heat soak, then went home and popped the hood with car running.
1. Top of engine cover = 133 deg.
2. top of intake tube at the maf = 120 deg.
3. tube on top closer to inlet to throttle body about = 112 deg.
4. Top of fliter and inside box front and side walls= 91 deg.
5. Walls near engine= 123 deg or so.
6. front wall, bottom of box and stock inlet tube to box= 112 deg.
I think sopping showed heat soak so I will redue this weekend with traffic and freeway, the last may be a bit hard to do accurately.
But car's response still good. I think I can say it is close or same as my remote IAT feel in all temps wether 65 or 80 outside. Hotter it gets, either mod , you still notice a slight, very slight fall off in response but I think that is expected.

07-28-2010, 05:37 PM	#15
chozn4service Drives: 2016 SS w/2SS A8 Blue Velvet Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 39.793153,-86.238223 Posts: 3,678 View My Garage	I followed Kga's lead on this modification and what was once a hot tube, I mean really hot after driving, the tube is now mainly warm. I think this has drastically reduced the temps the airtube was getting by additional holes in the box away from the engine side of business. As for neat, I used a spring loaded cener punch to mark my holes and had at it. I also put three holes in the very bottom but that was only to allow washer fluid to drain out. Overall, I'm happy has a fat rat in a cheese factory with my Airaid, the V2 tube and the added punch/response I've noticed since I've added the addtional holes. __________________ Never grow up, it's a trap!

07-30-2010, 09:21 AM	#24
Mankind Whats a Millwright? Drives: 2LT/RS SIM, 05 Wht Denali Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Holden, LA Posts: 410	After reading all the ideas and suggestions i have a question. The holes you drilled look pretty kool by the way. Has anyone tried using, say a flexible or universal radiator hose, some kind of tube attached to the box running down to the lwoer fender area like the injen location? You shouldn't risk water lock beacause you are drawing air from the top snorkel as well. Was thinking it might help with cooler air coming from the lower opening of the front facia being sucked through a 2 inch, or so, tube back up top. This set up made some really good numbers with just the snorkel, add more cool air and maybe get even better numbers. Just a thought. Last edited by Mankind; 07-30-2010 at 09:35 AM.

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07-28-2010, 07:25 PM	#16
mydreamcar My Dream Car Drives: 2011 SIM LS3 1SS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: staten island Posts: 1,534	hmm, got to try great idea, i did the IAT relocation already, would it be okay to punch all those holes and still keep the IAT relocation or would you really need to hook up the old IAT. I saw that you did in your post, wouldn't all that air flow be better for the IAT relocation anyway??

07-28-2010, 10:09 PM	#17
merlin803 Drives: 2016 Summit White Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2009 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 759 View My Garage	Placed my order tonight, someone hurry up and run some tests so I know if I need to buy a center punch, LOL

07-29-2010, 01:22 AM	#18
VR Baron SoCal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SO CAL Posts: 14,367	Me to you all. KGA and I did it about the same time and I concur with the findings, better resonse, sound and the air tube is just warm now not hot. Hey KGA, I added some more holes! I now have: 1. one at 1x4" in the bottom 2. the rect one adjacent to the stock inlet is now 3x5" 3. added 7 holes .75" dia below and to the side of the bottle, front panel. I think it is enough as I didn't notice any real extra gain but will monitor it. Any more holes and I might as well drill some in my head! This is just to much fun man!!

07-29-2010, 11:15 PM	#19
VR Baron SoCal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SO CAL Posts: 14,367	Driving impressions today 1. to work, 66 deg out ,same usual response. opened hood at work when I got there and tube was just barely warm. I could feel cool air coming in or being sucked in the holes in the front panel of the box. Only hot part of box was the curved side abd back facing the engine. The wall where the tube is was just warm and the front and fendor side panel were cool.Also the air and area at the hole in the bottom also is cool all the time, never any heat. Fender lower hole also always cool. 2. Drove home in usual traffic. temp at 78 degrees. tube was warmer now as air temp was higher and engine temp was up to 210 at some points versus 200 in the a.m..noticed stock inlet tube is barely warm where as in the morning was cool. All else applies regards cool/warm areas, just a little warmer as to be expected. Car still seems to react very close as if having the IAT mod done and the way it made the car run.

07-30-2010, 12:38 AM	#21
Toasty Custom User Title :D Drives: 2011 Summit White 2LT/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bolingbrook, IL Posts: 2,342	somebody's gotta have one of them infrared thermometers to measure the temp of the tube before/after!

07-30-2010, 08:56 AM	#22
navyblue2000 Owned too many Camaros Drives: 2011 Camaro LS 6MT, Black Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 36	I'm just curious...has anyone while doing these temperature tests taken the engine cover off? It sounds a bit silly, but... I had a cobalt, and when the engine cover was on the temps in the engine bay were noticeably hotter. On the cobalt, at least, the engine cover did help keep some of the noise down, but it did keep things hotter under it. I wonder if 1) taking the engine cover off would help get some heat out of there and thus 2) possibly lower IAT sensor temperature readings. Just a thought.

07-30-2010, 10:02 AM	#26
SchwarzerDrache No, it is not an SS Drives: SIM 2LT/RS Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Maryland Posts: 491	Does anyone have any pics of the CAI inc. box? I think that had extra holes already and it might be a good pattern to follow.

07-30-2010, 10:26 AM	#27
PieNsky Drives: Victory Red 1LS Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Louisville,KY Posts: 1,928 View My Garage	IIRC, Jannetty said that they had the one and only, at lest for a short while.

07-30-2010, 11:07 PM	#28
VR Baron SoCal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SO CAL Posts: 14,367	I took some temp readings today but didn't write them down so its memory time.Air temp 76, usual stop and go traffic. I stopped at the store which of course got some heat soak, then went home and popped the hood with car running. 1. Top of engine cover = 133 deg. 2. top of intake tube at the maf = 120 deg. 3. tube on top closer to inlet to throttle body about = 112 deg. 4. Top of fliter and inside box front and side walls= 91 deg. 5. Walls near engine= 123 deg or so. 6. front wall, bottom of box and stock inlet tube to box= 112 deg. I think sopping showed heat soak so I will redue this weekend with traffic and freeway, the last may be a bit hard to do accurately. But car's response still good. I think I can say it is close or same as my remote IAT feel in all temps wether 65 or 80 outside. Hotter it gets, either mod , you still notice a slight, very slight fall off in response but I think that is expected.