LT header and O2 sensor location question

[SA CHEVY]

Gearhead440,

Not the best news to hear but can work with it. Just checking but wasn't the consensus that Shorties were a waste of money when it came to horsepower gains? I could be mistaken but thought that's what I had heard maybe you could lend expertise on it though.

[gearhead440]

SA Chevy,
From these posts, shorty headers may provide a few hp (or not in some cases) compared to the stock manifolds but certainly add to the bling factor - shiney!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ghlight=shorty

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ghlight=shorty

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...ade/index.html

I just took a set of stock manifolds, ported the primarys out to 1.75", the outlet to a full 2.5", ground inside as far as the bit would reach, coated them with high temp coating and then wrapped them with header wrap. I was surprised by how much it helped with the temps near the exhaust and really like the black color. I trial fitted a set of Z06 manifolds but the outlet flange hit the frame so they wouldn't fit.

Guess I'll wait awhile and pursue the LT's and tune.

[SA CHEVY]

Originally Posted by gearhead440

SA Chevy,
From these posts, shorty headers may provide a few hp (or not in some cases) compared to the stock manifolds but certainly add to the bling factor - shiney!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ghlight=shorty

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ghlight=shorty

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t...ade/index.html

I just took a set of stock manifolds, ported the primarys out to 1.75", the outlet to a full 2.5", ground inside as far as the bit would reach, coated them with high temp coating and then wrapped them with header wrap. I was surprised by how much it helped with the temps near the exhaust and really like the black color. I trial fitted a set of Z06 manifolds but the outlet flange hit the frame so they wouldn't fit.

Guess I'll wait awhile and pursue the LT's and tune.

Thanks for the information gearhead440. You see any gains from porting the stock manifolds at all? Very curious on the effects of the results. Good pictures and info here, much appreciated.

[gearhead440]

We have some baseline dyno info from earlier this year but are waiting for some cooler temps this fall to perform a dyno after the mods we have performed (CAI, ADM race scoop, UD pulley, exhaust mods) - 100F and humid is just too much for me to want to dyno the car!
It is my wife's car and we both REALLY like the sound of the stock mufflers with the exhaust mods I did - louder than stock, deep and throaty. I can only tell you that the car now barks 4th gear after the exhaust mods whereas it did not before but the dyno will tell the tale soon.

[SA CHEVY]

I'll be following you then man to see what you get out of it. How hard was it to port?

[gearhead440]

Since you are from the left coast, I can certainly understand your interest in lieu of shortys or LTs. Tools: Makita die grinder, a set of long and short die grinding bits, dial caliper for measuring, and for the cats, saws-all, grinder and welder. Ear plugs and safety glasses are a must as well. I have a good 5+ hours of grinding in each manifold. I basically started with a gasket match on the primaries and used a bottle lid that had a 1.75" diameter for consistency. Check out this thread for more info http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96761.

Send me a PM if you need more details.

[SA CHEVY]

I like the details in the thread including everyones hijack comments lol I have knowledge of removing exhaust manifolds as I have done it in the past to switch out for LT's (vehicles had no warranty though hence my situation) but have minimal experience when it comes to the actual honing. I have die grinding sets, no big, but curious what is the necessity of the dial caliper? You had said in your thread you had used a cap for reference so wondering if I cut myself a 1.75" diam circle could I use that as my reference? Also how hard would it be (since I lack a welder and necessary tools at the house) to take the car to my exhaust guy and have him cut the pipes in front of my CATs and have him redo them to match the 2.5"? He'd just need a new O2 bung for the front CAT correct?

[CamaroSS8491]

I was going to post a thread on the O2 sensor but thought this was as could of a place to ask my question.

With the 2010 Camaros are people having to replace the O2 sensors when they do a header change because they destroy the stocked O2 sensor trying to remove it? From the way I understand it, its a 50/50 chance of destroying the sensor when you try to dissconnect it.

Thanks...

[ITGuy11]

As it was mentioned above, you will need a tune with LT's for the car to run properly. Get a SCT programmer from Jannetty Racing. That way you can tune for the headers, and return your car back to stock programming if you feel that you need to. Besides, I think your warranty is basically shot by just installing the headers in the first place.

Originally Posted by CamaroSS8491

I was going to post a thread on the O2 sensor but thought this was as could of a place to ask my question.

With the 2010 Camaros are people having to replace the O2 sensors when they do a header change because they destroy the stocked O2 sensor trying to remove it? From the way I understand it, its a 50/50 chance of destroying the sensor when you try to disconnect it.

Thanks...

I installed my headers a couple of days ago. 3 of the 4 O2 sensors came out with no problems. 1 of the sensors was destroyed while trying to remove it.

[gearhead440]

02 sensor removal info:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ghlight=sensor

You have to be very patient with the 02 sensors during removal. Once you remove them, use some anti-seize on the threads when reinstalling.

SA Chevy, PM'd you.

[Russell James]

I didn't see one correct way to remove O2 sensors in that thread.

The correct way is in the service manual. Run engine to operating temperature, loosen sensor. Tiny amount of anti-sieze when reinstalling.

I did mine when hot, all 4 cracked loose with a cresent wrench and spun out by hand.

If you try them cold, good chance of tearing the threads out. When doing exhaust work, do the O2's first before the engine cools off. Then attack the rest of the job. If you take the manifolds and cats off with the sensors still in them, your screwed.

[mwhitnee]

people have used a blow torch to heat them up, what about that?

[GONIF]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

OK,

The Front O2s only watch your A/F ratio and report.

The Rear O2s only watch your Cats and Report.

The Cats must come up to Temp with in a VERY Short period of time, if they don't it sets a CEL.

The Cell count affects how much heat they trap, and the distance they are from the Exhaust Ports.

Low Cell count Flow great but heat slow and vise verse.

Welding bungs, wrapping headers, coating headers will not prevent it only a Tune WILL.

Ted.

While I don't want to disagree with Ted , I can tell you that the O2 sensor must reach and hold temp as to not set a CEL not the cat. A 200 bed cat flows much better then 2 400 bed cats and thus lets the O2 not come to and hold the proper temp . Add to that ,the location of the O2 being further away ,it will not stay as hot . That is as it was taught to me by the ADEQ in the class and literature . A tune can alter it so both the upstream and down steam O2's do not set a CEL in 2 consecutive drive cycles .