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Old 12-08-2015, 11:23 AM   #295
JTRATX
 
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Can you post up the link for gauge pod?
Also, will the wires just drop through the dash without drilling any holes?


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Old 12-08-2015, 06:18 PM   #296
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Google SLP 90554 gauge pod. No drilling, wires go between steering column and dash.
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:04 PM   #297
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Originally Posted by JTRATX View Post
Can you post up the link for gauge pod?
Also, will the wires just drop through the dash without drilling any holes?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I bought it a long time ago, I just inputted dual gauge pod and made sure it was the correct size for the 2 1/16" gauges. No drilling needed other than the speaker grill but I trimmed some of the bottom off of the pod to make it lower. Wires didn't want to thread through easy because of all the a/c ducts and radio garbage. I took a 3' length of fuel hose I had laying around and worked it around until I could grab it, then ran the wires through it and they came out right where I wanted.

An example but not the same vendor, looks the same though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/52Mm-2-Heavy...VVg5Mr&vxp=mtr
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:33 PM   #298
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Finally on the correct continent for more mods. Giant oil cooler is back ordered so starting with the gauges, oil temp and pressure. Pod cost $5.99 and free shipping on ebay. Not paying $100 for the same thing.

As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery
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Old 12-10-2015, 08:24 PM   #299
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As they say, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery
I bought it two years ago and posted photos then but was deployed for a year before I could finish the install. So you're welcome for the idea.


The thread where I posted it and you responded a year later selling my idea. Let me know when I can expect that royalty check.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=335415

Last edited by Synner; 12-10-2015 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:32 AM   #300
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Originally Posted by 12-motorsports View Post
Google SLP 90554 gauge pod. No drilling, wires go between steering column and dash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
I bought it a long time ago, I just inputted dual gauge pod and made sure it was the correct size for the 2 1/16" gauges. No drilling needed other than the speaker grill but I trimmed some of the bottom off of the pod to make it lower. Wires didn't want to thread through easy because of all the a/c ducts and radio garbage. I took a 3' length of fuel hose I had laying around and worked it around until I could grab it, then ran the wires through it and they came out right where I wanted.

An example but not the same vendor, looks the same though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/52Mm-2-Heavy...VVg5Mr&vxp=mtr
Thanks for link. Just looked them up and they won't work w/a Z28. Back to drawing board.
Want a pod that I can see on the dash.
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:42 AM   #301
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I have this gauge pod:

http://www.aeroforcetech.com/images/ZL1_dual_cf_sm
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:11 PM   #302
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I came across this article in a periodical that I frequently browse. Anyway, it has a brief mentioning of oil temps and flow requirements... Stuff we've been discussing here. There's a specific comment in the article that goes over oil temps. I myself have never really saw much problem with running 300 oil temps.

From the article; Len Groom an AMSOIL specialist:
Quote:
High quality racing oils, he explains, demand attention in several key areas in order to provide protection. Two of the most important areas lie within their film strength and resistance to viscosity loss under high pressure. “In fact,” says Groom, “when racers using our 15w-50 tell me they are running oil temperatures of 260F, I don’t get too concerned so long as the pressure is adequate.” Tellingly, Groom added cranking it up by an additional 50 degrees could further reduce the parasitic drag.

“It depends on the engine but our evidence demonstrates that by running our Dominator 15W-50 racing oil at 300F-plus, the engine will make more power—and you can prove this on the dynamometer,” he says. “It often surprises racers to learn that even circle track engines can run 330F and maintain those temperatures for the entire racing weekend without an oil change.”
Hopefully this will give you all some piece of mind and put a new perspective on things.
http://mooregoodink.com/want-to-lear...ssue+%2344+KRC
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:11 PM   #303
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I like some of the elements I'm seeing on the 2016 SS. May borrow these ideas for my setup. The smaller radiators on each side, which vent into the wheel well, remind me of the setup in Orange Crush 1LE - still my favorite approach, instead of mounting in front of the AC condenser and radiator.
This could potentially be a much easier approach, but would the air be 'sucked' through the cooler because it exits to the wheel well area? It would need ducting to the grill area as well unless someone wants to sacrifice their DRL/fog light correct?

Just trying to get a grasp on how it could be set up like the 2016.

Just thought of something for that set up:

Could you run the cooler to the wheel well like that, but have a fan to pull air from the front grill area and then have it exit to the wheel well? Fan would be hooked up to ducting as you can get duct covers for some coolers I think. Or put the fan between the cooler and the wheel well exit? Just a thought and a little more weight.
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:24 PM   #304
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Originally Posted by xc_SS/RS View Post
This could potentially be a much easier approach, but would the air be 'sucked' through the cooler because it exits to the wheel well area? It would need ducting to the grill area as well unless someone wants to sacrifice their DRL/fog light correct?

Just trying to get a grasp on how it could be set up like the 2016.

Just thought of something for that set up:

Could you run the cooler to the wheel well like that, but have a fan to pull air from the front grill area and then have it exit to the wheel well? Fan would be hooked up to ducting as you can get duct covers for some coolers I think. Or put the fan between the cooler and the wheel well exit? Just a thought and a little more weight.
I can't remember how O.C. had his set up. Did he still have duct work to the brakes? Could you put little rads for oil with fans and have that air channeled to the front rotors? Would that air be cool enough for the brakes?
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:31 PM   #305
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I can't remember how O.C. had his set up. Did he still have duct work to the brakes? Could you put little rads for oil with fans and have that air channeled to the front rotors? Would that air be cool enough for the brakes?
Probably not enough to cool the brakes. The air coming from the oil cooler would probably be 150-200 degrees or more where as the brakes would get ambient/slightly cooler depending on humidity/speed I think.

I would think you could maybe run a duct from the fog/DRL hole to the oil cooler, exiting in the wheel well while still having duct work to cool the brakes. Or run the ducting for the brakes off the fog/DRL holes and have the oil cooler get air from the front grill.

The only issue with the fog/DRL area is I remember reading on here that it's not the most optimal area to get air for cooling. But it might work. Obviously you could just put the cooler in front of the radiator and condenser but where's the creativity in that? Lol
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:37 PM   #306
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Probably not enough to cool the brakes. The air coming from the oil cooler would probably be 150-200 degrees or more where as the brakes would get ambient/slightly cooler depending on humidity/speed I think.

I would think you could maybe run a duct from the fog/DRL hole to the oil cooler, exiting in the wheel well while still having duct work to cool the brakes. Or run the ducting for the brakes off the fog/DRL holes and have the oil cooler get air from the front grill.

The only issue with the fog/DRL area is I remember reading on here that it's not the most optimal area to get air for cooling. But it might work. Obviously you could just put the cooler in front of the radiator and condenser but where's the creativity in that? Lol
In have thoughts of getting some ACS ports I forget the nomenclature but they have one that is split into two pods and you can split what air goes where.

I'll be honest though I didn't get to race like I wanted to last year because of work and I'm starting to think about getting a cheaper track only car. I have delusions of an early 90's MR2 with a Chevy turbo 4 swap. Most things are cheap for that car and I won't give two shits about it. Or so I say... LoL
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Old 02-12-2016, 04:54 PM   #307
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Originally Posted by Firefighter View Post
In have thoughts of getting some ACS ports I forget the nomenclature but they have one that is split into two pods and you can split what air goes where.

I'll be honest though I didn't get to race like I wanted to last year because of work and I'm starting to think about getting a cheaper track only car. I have delusions of an early 90's MR2 with a Chevy turbo 4 swap. Most things are cheap for that car and I won't give two shits about it. Or so I say... LoL
Lol yeah a dedicated car would be nice. Haven't seen the ducts that you can split the air to two ports but that seems very cool. Of course you would need it on one side only unless you're cooling the trans as well. I need to actually get to a track day but that's a different story all together.

Theres a set up that X25 had in mind for his brothers car before he sold it. The idea of the cooler exiting to the wheel well could make it easier to set up but I'm waiting for him to explain his vision to me. Definitely going to mention this to him.

One thing I thought of since I run a vararam intake is I could potentially take air from where the stock air box or where the scoop goes for intakes? Maybe?
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:16 PM   #308
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It's the T4 ports...



I would be interested in what you find out about that set up you're speaking of.

I do like my ADM intake but I've thought about the value of using that real estate in other ways. Vararam has yet to come out with the OTR for 2012+ never mind the damned VR-X intake manifold. If they would it would open up some options for me.

Right now I need tires and want some Forgeline wheels to go to a square 305 set up but that'll run me roughly $7K.

I could get an MR2 and drive it till the Yota motor blows for that price... LoL
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