Issues with 2010 Camaro SS misfiring after spark plug & spark plug wire replacement

[PaulsSS]

Unfortunately you are experiencing what happens when you throw parts at a problem without proper diagnoses. Best to stay at 1 good shop and make them responsible for being able to diagnose then repair. Personally most places are going to toss parts at it then when that doesn't work they act like your car is something crazy no one could fix. I would cut your losses at this point and find a real pro that can handle this or drive it till its broken and there is no doubt any one can fix it.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Tell them you’ll pay them a million dollars to find that second pump and show it to you along with where it goes. If yours is truly a 5th Gen SS there’s only one pump, in the tank.

Time for a quality shop who knows WTF they are doing if you dont.( not to sound like a Dick but after reading this thread it seems you don’t)

[ariZona28]

I've got a rather short attention span so I have refrained from contributing BUT as Aqua mentioned there is only one fuel pump in the 5th Gen SS cars. There IS a second, high press pump in the V6 cars and probably in the 6th Gen V8 cars as they're direct injection engines. If the shop you're at doesn't know what's in front of them you may be in for more trouble$. Do you (OP) have a friend or relative that can be an "advocate" for you? It's appears to me that these shops are taking advantage of your lack of knowledge and that just ain't right.

[NOT A 45]

Simplified, there are 2 level sensors. one on the left side of the tank and one on the right. Fuel level is indicated by the resistance of both the level sensors. Fuel is delivered to the engine from the fuel pump in the left side of the tank, and simultaneously drawn from the right side to replenish the left side. Therefore unless full, anything that causes the resistance of the left side sensor to be lower then the right will set a code and cause the gauge to default to empty. My guess since the fuel pump had just been replaced is the plastic tube inside the tank that transfers the fuel from left to right is either kinked or not connected to the left sending unit.

[Camarosmith]

Yeah there is two of them the fuel pump module and fuel transfer pump. I confirmed this by looking at a parts of the fuel system and fuel tank for the car. It is a stupid and misleading design. I was thrown off by it thinking that the pump itself having a fuel level sensor on it was the only fuel level sensor, to me it's dumb to have two. Also my 4th Gen I attempted to replace the fuel pump on previously only had the one fuel level sensor attached to the pump which is why I was thinking that was all there would be on it.

I spoke to the shop today, they did seem to know what was going on as they mentioned this to me and I had to look it up myself to see if I was being told a line of BS.

They should have it sorted out, probably gonna cost me some more money, oh well.

If anyone changes the fuel pump I guess it's good to know for anyone in the future it's probably a good idea to then change that transfer pump along with it to save yourself from having to take the rear end of the car apart again.

[silversleeper]

[Camarosmith]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

NOT A 45 is correct and knows what he's talking about

Ok I got the name wrong, here is the part I'm talking about and the shop was telling me about was likely the culprit to be more exact, I did reference the part # earlier as well

Fuel Tank Sending Unit Kit with Sender, Sensor, and Seal - GM (13592332)



Here is a link to where you can order it confirmed by my vehicles VIN #

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-pa...YtMmwtdjgtZ2Fz

This picture may also show you what I'm talking about here




Here is a picture of the SS Fuel tank:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/attac...1&d=1672965236

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

This thread is turning more humorous by the minute. There’s one pump. It’s in the tank. Sometimes called a fuel pump module… direct injected cars have the lift pump in the tank and a high pressure pump in the engine compartment. The LS engines ARE NOT direct injected.

[acutron42]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2010 Camaro SS with 140,000 miles on it & it's my baby.

The car was running fine although getting a little older with more mileage

I thought I would have some preventative maintenance done on the vehicle and so I took it to my local Chevrolet dealership.

The car was driving fine with no check engine lights on and no misfires occurring ever prior to me taking it to them for service

How did this get to three pages lol!

[ZED SLED]

Originally Posted by acutron42

How did this get to three pages lol!

Go into your User CP and under Edit Options scroll down to Thread Display Options and set the # of posts/page to Max (40 posts per), then it will be just under one page

[Camarosmith]

Got the car back today and yeah that ended up being what it was, I had to pay $1064 for the fuel tank sending unit replacement since it wasn't related to the fuel pump that was recently replaced and not the issue and the shop had to do the job twice and it wasn't their fault due to this ridicules design.

So with that being said, and like I said earlier to hopefully save others from this grief and expense in the future, changing the fuel tank sending unit out along with the fuel pump at the same time would be a great idea since it's only about $80 dollars and can save you the nightmare / headache and huge expense of paying for or performing the time consuming & labor intensive process of dropping the rear end of the car to get to the fuel tank twice.

This also means that the shortcut method of cutting a trap door in the passenger seat area is kind of irrelevant considering you would need to essentially cut two trap doors if there is even a trap door that can be cut for access to this additional fuel tank sending unit.

[bsn]

Seems like everything was fine until you had the dealership do some preventive maintenance and they created a problem for you. Reading your post it seems there was absolutely no reason to replace the fuel pump in the first place, I'll bet the other sender was damaged due to rough handling during the fuel tank removal, it didn't just suddenly fail. I also don't understand replacing the fuel injectors just because they have 100,000 miles on them. The second shop should have tried to talk you out of replacing injectors and pump until they diagnosed the problem. You literally have wasted several thousand dollars, find a good competent mechanic and stick with him.

[pyroguy]

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

This thread is turning more humorous by the minute.

Exactly!!

Originally Posted by bsn

Seems like everything was fine until you had the dealership do some preventive maintenance and they created a problem for you. Reading your post it seems there was absolutely no reason to replace the fuel pump in the first place, I'll bet the other sender was damaged due to rough handling during the fuel tank removal, it didn't just suddenly fail. I also don't understand replacing the fuel injectors just because they have 100,000 miles on them. The second shop should have tried to talk you out of replacing injectors and pump until they diagnosed the problem. You literally have wasted several thousand dollars, find a good competent mechanic and stick with him.

I agree. The car was running fine until preventative maintenance was done of replacing coil packs, spark plugs, and wires. New parts were on the cheap from ebay and issues started to arise. OP ignored advice to put old functioning parts back where the new part was giving issues to see if it was the new part or something else, OP took car to a mechanic they thought they could trust and got bent over a barrel. Then OP tried the advice of people here, but still took the car to another mechanic who further reamed them with more expensive and unnecessary parts and repairs. Now the second mechanic is further bending the OP over a barrel because they have no idea what they're actually doing and further screwing everything up. While they have the cradle down to replace more fuel parts, order some cradle bushings and have them installed because the factory rear cradle bushings are garbage.

OP, once you get your car put back together, wait for your quality maintenance parts, and stay the hell away from this mechanic unless you like taking it up the tailpipe because that's what they're doing to you each time you go back to them.

[Camarosmith]

Originally Posted by pyroguy

Exactly!!

I agree. The car was running fine until preventative maintenance was done of replacing coil packs, spark plugs, and wires. New parts were on the cheap from ebay and issues started to arise. OP ignored advice to put old functioning parts back where the new part was giving issues to see if it was the new part or something else, OP took car to a mechanic they thought they could trust and got bent over a barrel. Then OP tried the advice of people here, but still took the car to another mechanic who further reamed them with more expensive and unnecessary parts and repairs. Now the second mechanic is further bending the OP over a barrel because they have no idea what they're actually doing and further screwing everything up. While they have the cradle down to replace more fuel parts, order some cradle bushings and have them installed because the factory rear cradle bushings are garbage.

OP, once you get your car put back together, wait for your quality maintenance parts, and stay the hell away from this mechanic unless you like taking it up the tailpipe because that's what they're doing to you each time you go back to them.

This is your take on the situation but not really accurate, partially correct however.

Obviously I'm not happy about having to spend a lot of money on fixing the car but I'm money ahead at this point considering these parts are due to be changed at 100,000 miles anyways.

Also this car is a company vehicle so it's at this point costing me more money not being operable then anything. I can make back what I spent to repair it quickly. It not being operable is costing me more money then I spent at this point to fix it.

The fact of the matter is the car was fine until the spark plugs and and spark plug wires were asked to be replaced by the chevy dealersahip.

Then I had misfiring issues with the stock coil packs also so attempted to buy new ones and got some cheap ones on ebay which also had the same issues.

Also when I looked at the spark plugs the dealership installed they were not all gapped correctly even if they come pre gapped or whatever and used the ACDelco 41-162's where I later found the OEM said to be discontinued ACDelco 41-110's that are listed in the car's drivers manual and installed them myself, they were also not all pre gapped correctly but I made sure they were all gapped correctly according to the official driver's manual spec

Even when I changed the spark plugs out myself and spark plug wires I still had all the same issues with the car so it's not actually the Chevy dealership's fault in this case although they shoulda owned up on the issues that changing the spark plugs and supposedly changing the spark plugs wires I asked them and paid for them to replace but left the old ones on still and charged me for them created and followed through with me instead of telling my a lie that the car had those issues when I brought it to them.

After doing the work myself and watching videos other people posted that had the same issues I started to think it was related to my fuel injectors mostly cause this video right here where a guys having the same issue I was having with his ZL1 although I wasn't getting the any a codes related to my fuel injection system.

The symptoms the I was experiencing with the car alternating misfires on cylinders from 6 to 2 and randomly misfiring at times during traffic stops or on cold start lead me to believe I was having issues with other components on the car like the fuel injectors also since through a process of elimination I had already replaced all the other components of the ignition system said to be related to the issue and also the issues I was experiencing went in line with what I read about symptoms of clogged or failing fuel injectors.

I had tried the fuel injection cleaner prior and was still having issues.

with my car having over 100,000 miles and knowing my fuel pump failed at about 130,000 miles on my v6 4th gen camaro I bit the bullet and went ahead and replaced it as well to hopefully be money ahead and save the future headache also it's reccomended to replace this when replacing the fuel injectors since the fuel filter on this car is built into the fuel pump which was another reason I did this.

The issue with my misfire also did seem to improve after the fuel injectors and fuel pump was replaced.

I asked the shop to check for vacuum leaks which are also in my findings related to the problems I was experiencing with the car

However after the fuel pump was replaced my fuel gauge was working for about 3 days and 3 trips with the car and then it failed

So it was either the fuel sending unit was already failing also and or just didn't like then new pump module and failed and wasn't really covered under the warranty of the fuel pump module replacement by the local shop since it wasn't the newly installed fuel pump module that failed or malfunctioned that was recently installed requiring the shop to essentially drop the rear end of the car again and do nearly the same job twice only this time changing the fuel sending unit which they didn't wanna have to do either in order to get my fuel gauge working again but it is what it is. I need my fuel gauge working.

Like I said anyone changing their fuel pump should also change the sending unit at the same time to avoid this grief and additional expense in time and or money

Everything is good with the car since I put the old original coil pack on cylinder 2 after the fuel pump and injector replacement except once on a cold morning it did misfire on the second time I started the car after the cold air filled my garage and the car sat for a bit. I still have the genaric round delphi coils on the car until the square legit coils finally arrive sometime here on the 10th. I also have some weird but said to be compatible spark plug wires on the car still currently although I have the new correct ones but I'll change them when I put the new coil packs on the car.

In hindsight I wish I would have experimented with replacing the newer cheap ebay cheap delphi coils with the original older OEM square coils earlier but I kind of ruled it out before taking it to the shop and having them replace the fuel injectors and fuel pump but I was at a loss at this point kind of and had already invested a lot of time and energy I was getting short on and I kind of ruled it out as I was having the same misfire on cylinder 6 more consistently with both sets of coils the old original coils and the the newer round cheap ebay coils and rarely had the misfire on cylinder 2 but it would come up sometimes but rarely and more and consistently on cylinder 6. I did swap two of the ebay delphi coils once only to have the same issue on cylinder 6 still. I'm not sure putting the old original square coil pack on cylinder 6 at this point would have stopped the misfire before having the fuel pump and fuel injectors but it would have been good to know

When the fuel pump and injectors were replaced by the shop the car no longer started up with a misfire but would eventually throw the code on cylinder 2 along with the same stablitrack code later on and no longer on cylinder 6 and when the code would come up the misfire didn't seem to be nearly as bad and was hardly noticeable but at times during it the car didn't sound right either.

Then I put the old square OEM coil pack on cylinder 2 and that's when the issue pretty much went away except for the one time second cold start. I've taken the car on many fairly long trips also without issues arising which were previously not possible.

I'll have to see if I'm still having issue with cold start misfires with the new parts

So because the injector replacement and fuel pump replacement did seem to improve the misfire issue that doesn't mean they were not a part of the issue. I'm thinking it was more the injectors personally. I might be wrong but like I said the car drove better and the issue got better after replacing them although it was still present it changed a bit and is nearly gone after putting the original square coil pack on cylinder #2

I also cleaned the throttle body which restored some power to the car also

Yeah I would have proffered to have a professional mechanic that could tell me what exactly what the problem was but that's why I took it to the dealership to begin with only to realize over time that the Chevy Dealership seems to actually know very little about the car then I do considering it took them 6 days to change the spark plugs and spark plug wires and also took 3 weeks in the past to change my rear brakes a job I can do on front and back in about 2 hours myself. Every time I would take this car the the Chevy Dealership they would always act like they never saw one before.

In my experience there doesn't seem to be many people who know much about this car in particular as common and popular as it is. not the dealership or local mechanics. I seem to know more then they do. I am not an expert however on it either which is why I am here posting about this situation to get to the bottom of it and also share my experience with this headache with this car I have encountered.

My 4th Gen V6 Camaro I also had to change 2 of the 3 coil packs on and the fuel pump on it at this point in mileage and never had to change the injectors on it and barely used premium gas in it.

Of course we will see what happens when the new correct OEM coil packs show up and I put them on as well as the correct spark plug wires.

I'm hoping that's the end of all these issues. They seem to be mostly gone as is but we'll see as the common trend so far is I replace something and something else breaks or some other issue arises

We'll just see what happens.