check engine light

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by pennor

Water is a product of combustion. That's why you'll see water vapor coming from the tail pipe on a cold morning. Burn any hudro carbon and you get water, CO2, and a few other by products. If you were to convert to buring pure hydrogen, and it can be done, the ONLY byproduct from the tail pipe is water vapor.

you are correct!..upon reflection,i stand corrected,as i can see visual proof of this from the tailpipes..i'll change the oil when i release the "beast" from it's temporary sleep!..thanks for the input!

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by Rip

It's partially condensation, it's also a byproduct of burning hydrocarbons. Don't even pay attention to what your engine temp gauge reads, look at your oil temperature. It needs to get above 212. Now, doing this on occasion isn't an issue - as long as you're also driving it regularly. It's when this is the only thing you are doing that it becomes an issue. This is the main reason why you see a lot of older, low-mileage cars with more issues than those that are driven harder and for longer commutes.

Your best bet for storing it is going to be to put a good fuel stabilizer in it, run it long enough so that you know the treated fuel is completely through the fuel line, and park it until you're ready to start driving it again.

actually it's been rendered academic, because it's comin' out of it's very temporary sleep in thirty days,so at this stage,it's kinda irrelevent...that said,i don't have an oil pressure gauge,however as long as it can be determined that you have "pressure in the boat" so to speak,then you are ok!
the alternative to a gauge is to establish that you have a working oil pump,and a full "sump"..nice to have a gauge ,of course,but you don't really need one!..temp gauge is enough info to let you know if you have a problem.
either way you are gonna pull over and shut down anyway!..not to impinge
on what you say,however if an oil pressure gauge was so important,then EVERY car would require one as standard equipment..millions of cars do quite well WITHOUT one!..just sayin!..i intend to get rid of the oil in the crank,and start life anew with a fresh fill...thanks for your input!

[C586]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

i don't disagree with that analogy,however,it must be noted that "lubrication" is ALMOST instantaneous upon start up under ANY type of weather conditions,and
yes!..although there IS wear on the engine components,the car IS built to be started and driven,OR run...the true issue here is starting a "cold" engine,and NOT allowing it to reach operating temperature.yes!.again minute amounts of wear is a given,but again,this is true of EVERY time a vehicle is started,
REGARDLESS of the air temperatures...what is infinitely more harmful is starting any engine,and then shutting it down BEFORE reaching a operational
temp,and shutting it down abruptly.if it can be determined upon startup that you have have established "proper'" oil pressure,then all bets are off,and you are good to go,and of course,MOST people don't have an oil pressure gauge to establish this.it's nice to have one,but you can get by WITHOUT one.just make sure you have a "full" sump of oil in the engine before starting it...thanks for your input!

Yea. Wear is taking place. But if your not starting the car for any other reason besides to start it then why let that wear take place if its for no reason at all?? Thats my point. If you dont need the engine started then why start it?? The OP is causing needless cold starting wear. Yes almost none I am aware as I do build engines. I have 2 supras both over 700 rwhp. Unless I am using the engine to move the car they dont start. Worrying about flat spots on the tires isnt a reason to move the car. The tires will not have flat spots if they are in the same spot for even a year. My supra sat 11 months and no flat spots. Like I said before, battery tender some stabil and your favorite mouse/insect repelent and forget you own the car til you are going to be driving it. I have been doing it that way for 10 years now and never had any issues with flat spots mice or dead batteries.

[Rip]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

actually it's been rendered academic, because it's comin' out of it's very temporary sleep in thirty days,so at this stage,it's kinda irrelevent...that said,i don't have an oil pressure gauge,however as long as it can be determined that you have "pressure in the boat" so to speak,then you are ok!
the alternative to a gauge is to establish that you have a working oil pump,and a full "sump"..nice to have a gauge ,of course,but you don't really need one!..temp gauge is enough info to let you know if you have a problem.
either way you are gonna pull over and shut down anyway!..not to impinge
on what you say,however if an oil pressure gauge was so important,then EVERY car would require one as standard equipment..millions of cars do quite well WITHOUT one!..just sayin!..i intend to get rid of the oil in the crank,and start life anew with a fresh fill...thanks for your input!

I didn't say anything about oil pressure, I said oil temperature. Dude, I'm just explaining to you what happens every time you kill your engine - you have water vapor basically everywhere there is air and when it cools down sufficiently, it condenses into water. It's very small amounts, but if you repeatedly crank that engine and introduce that water into your system while failing to get the engine hot enough to thoroughly burn it off through evaporation, it will build up.

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by C586

Yea. Wear is taking place. But if your not starting the car for any other reason besides to start it then why let that wear take place if its for no reason at all?? Thats my point. If you dont need the engine started then why start it?? The OP is causing needless cold starting wear. Yes almost none I am aware as I do build engines. I have 2 supras both over 700 rwhp. Unless I am using the engine to move the car they dont start. Worrying about flat spots on the tires isnt a reason to move the car. The tires will not have flat spots if they are in the same spot for even a year. My supra sat 11 months and no flat spots. Like I said before, battery tender some stabil and your favorite mouse/insect repelent and forget you own the car til you are going to be driving it. I have been doing it that way for 10 years now and never had any issues with flat spots mice or dead batteries.

i hear ya!.it's my mistake for NOT mentioning that i do NOT have a battery tender,and the battery "croaked" on me once already!..have no way to connect one as the car sits in the drive way a good distance from the house,so i just go out to OCCASIONALLY to light it up to preserve the battery!..a apologize for NOT mention this to begin with,as it's really the only reason i would have to touch it off!..as previously stated,it's a moot point,because in another month the "beast" will be loose ,and prowling!..appreciate the concern!

[TooCool5]

Originally Posted by jmaryt

yeah!..i put some in!..i believe it "caught" some small particles of dirt in the #1
cylinder.that's what the code points to!..figure water in the gas,or sh**ty fuel.
dealer believes,and i tend to agree,dirt in the injector...if i don't "lose" the light,it will definitely see the dealer...should go away though,because it is running super smooth now,however the "moron" light is still solid,but NOT flashing!..the gas really 'sucks" these days!

Hey, glad its running better, its got to go through a number of start, stop cycles before the light will go out.
Its the ethanol in the gas causing all the problems.

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by Rip

I didn't say anything about oil pressure, I said oil temperature. Dude, I'm just explaining to you what happens every time you kill your engine - you have water vapor basically everywhere there is air and when it cools down sufficiently, it condenses into water. It's very small amounts, but if you repeatedly crank that engine and introduce that water into your system while failing to get the engine hot enough to thoroughly burn it off through evaporation, it will build up.

yeah i'm aware of that..no argument,however as stated before,i believe it's run long enough and hot enough to not be a problem,and it's only done very occasionally to keep the battery "juiced"..i can't put it on a"tender",and i lost the battery already,and had to jump it!..as mentioned, the oil is gonna be "yanked",and all will be golden in less than a month!..sorry about the reference to the oil pressure gauge,because it is the more popular gauge,and wasn't thinkin' about an oil temperature gauge,as most cars don't have 'em anyway,and are not really necessary!..mostly for show!..ya really DON'T need both,as one ,or the other will give ya the info that's necessary to know!..appreciate the feedback,and again,thanks for the concern!

[jmaryt]

Originally Posted by TooCool5

Hey, glad its running better, its got to go through a number of start, stop cycles before the light will go out.
Its the ethanol in the gas causing all the problems.

yeah!..i believe that to be true!..f**kin' ethanol is NOT doin' it any good for sure!
i put some treatment in the tank,and like i said,it's runnin' much smoother,but will be happy when that light goes out!..appreciate the feedback!

[TooCool5]

There is a re-flash service bulletin for this if it happens again.
I'll get mine done if I ever have to go to the dealer again.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...ine+rough+cold