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Old 08-04-2011, 05:39 PM   #29
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The nice thing about mounting the end link outboard of the spring is that you can run a much softer sway bar rate to accomplish the same thing as a stiffer bar rate with an inboard mount. Since the mount is further away from the fulcrum (inner control arm bushings) it takes less bar rate to control body roll. This also puts less strain on the sway bar end link mounts and inner control arm bushings. While there is no doubt that this is a more efficient setup than the FE2/FE3 sway bar setup, if you already have upgraded your end link mounts and rear sway bar I can't really see a definitive benefit to swapping in FE4 parts...

Last edited by BMR guy; 08-05-2011 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:43 PM   #30
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ZL1 -- Over the Top Camaro
ZL1 Pedderised -- Absurd Performance
So would I benefit from upgrading to Supercars if I'm just drag racing?

And would I benefit overall to upgrade to the longer swaybars?
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:52 PM   #31
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So would I benefit from upgrading to Supercars if I'm just drag racing?

And would I benefit overall to upgrade to the longer swaybars?
All I can say about Supercars and drag racing is, can you wait a couple of days before I answer

Theoretically, you would benefit at the strip from the bar being so much closer to the hub. Think of it this way, the current sway bar stops motion say 1 foot from the source of the motion (the wheel). The new bar acts on motion 1.5 inches from the source. From the mechanical motion to the speed of the reaction the new bar style is superior. How much tie will be gained, I couldn't say. Which is better, hands down the new setup.
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:58 PM   #32
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All I can say about Supercars and drag racing is, can you wait a couple of days before I answer

Theoretically, you would benefit at the strip from the bar being so much closer to the hub. Think of it this way, the current sway bar stops motion say 1 foot from the source of the motion (the wheel). The new bar acts on motion 1.5 inches from the source. From the mechanical motion to the speed of the reaction the new bar style is superior. How much tie will be gained, I couldn't say. Which is better, hands down the new setup.
Fair enough. I can't wait. Got PonyWars cowing up. I'm gonna eat me some C6.
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:59 PM   #33
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Fair enough. I can't wait. Got PonyWars cowing up. I'm gonna eat me some C6.
What are your current negative camber settings in the rear?
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:00 PM   #34
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It's welded to the top similarly to the old style however from what I understand it uses a traditional (old school) puck-type end link bushing top and bottom instead of the 10mm studded tie rod end link.

The nice thing about mounting the end link outboard of the spring is that you can run a much softer sway bar rate to accomplish the same thing as a stiffer bar rate with an inboard mount. Since the mount is further away from the fulcrum (inner control arm bushings) it takes less bar rate to control body roll. This also puts less strain on the sway bar end link mounts and inner control arm bushings. While there is no doubt that this is a more efficient setup than the FE2/FE3 sway bar setup, if you already have upgraded your end link mounts and rear sway bar I can't really see a definitive benefit to swapping in FE4 parts...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
All I can say about Supercars and drag racing is, can you wait a couple of days before I answer

Theoretically, you would benefit at the strip from the bar being so much closer to the hub. Think of it this way, the current sway bar stops motion say 1 foot from the source of the motion (the wheel). The new bar acts on motion 1.5 inches from the source. From the mechanical motion to the speed of the reaction the new bar style is superior. How much tie will be gained, I couldn't say. Which is better, hands down the new setup.

To both of you,

so I have all the pedders stuff in my sig, and the BMR Rear LCA end link tab brackets...

I'm guessing I won't see much if any benefit from upgrading to the new LCA and a new aftermarket rear sway and endlinks?

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Old 08-04-2011, 06:08 PM   #35
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To both of you,

so I have all the pedders stuff in my sig, and the BMR Rear LCA end link tab brackets...

I'm guessing I won't see much if any benefit from upgrading to the new LCA and a new aftermarket rear sway and endlinks?

Time and testing will tell, but theoretically you should because the new style bar is a more direct acting setup. It works at the source instead of through a lever to get to the source. I am not saying you'll bolt the new bits on and lower your 60 by 2/10ths. I am saying there is some gain that needs to be measured. It will be small, but it should be there. It all depends how serious you get. Does taking a pound out of your car at the trip help -- probably not. Pull the rear seat, passenger seat, strip the trunk, add light weight drag wheels and that weight reduction make a real difference. The lighter the car gets the more important it becomes to take out the next pound. Setup is no different. The more dialed you get, the more important every small detail becomes.
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:45 PM   #36
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What are your current negative camber settings in the rear?
-0.94 driver side.
-0.91 passenger side.


I was actually at the alignment shop when I asked you. LOL
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:48 PM   #37
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-0.94 driver side.
-0.91 passenger side.


I was actually at the alignment shop when I asked you. LOL
-.5 would be a good combo handling / drag 0 is drag ready.

Did you run out of adjustment?
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #38
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-.5 would be a good combo handling / drag 0 is drag ready.

Did you run out of adjustment?
Not sure. They were pretty busy. He just gave me a printout and I left.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:07 PM   #39
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Not sure. They were pretty busy. He just gave me a printout and I left.
OE adjusters or mine?
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:10 PM   #40
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OE adjusters or mine?
OE I think.

All I did was the XAs, sub-frame inserts, and trailing arm bushes and sway bar end links.
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Old 08-04-2011, 09:31 PM   #41
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Is it me or does this look to be for better axles?
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:17 PM   #42
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If I'm not mistaken that is the rear perch void. After market coil overs had problem hitting the underside of the trunk because that void wasn't tall enough. I'm guessing they needed more clearance with the new suspension
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