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Old 04-05-2013, 06:43 AM   #29
IDEALG
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Originally Posted by SERVED_USMC View Post
Has anyone actually broken internal trans parts from this. I said to hell with it tonight and ran 1-4 a few times. It does grind, but like the poster on the other page said, it does not not allow me to shift into second. We all know this cant be good on parts. But, which parts will be the ones having the problems later down the road?
Your going to ruin the gears in the trans and the mesh ring or syncros.
It's not some easy fix where you can just replace one piece. The whole trans has to come completely apart to fix that one bad gear so you might as well fix everything while your in there. I don't recommend you keep doing that.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:44 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by IDEALG View Post
Your going to ruin the gears in the trans and the mesh ring or syncros.
It's not some easy fix where you can just replace one piece. The whole trans has to come completely apart to fix that one bad gear so you might as well fix everything while your in there. I don't recommend you keep doing that.
If none of the "fixes" end up working. What choice do I have?
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Old 04-05-2013, 09:11 AM   #31
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If none of the "fixes" end up working. What choice do I have?
True but once you wipe out the gears no matter how many "fixes" you try it's always going to grind. Then you will never know if the "fixes" helped or not.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:32 AM   #32
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True but once you wipe out the gears no matter how many "fixes" you try it's always going to grind. Then you will never know if the "fixes" helped or not.
For sure. I plan on getting everything before it gets to that point. Just wondering the outcome if it doesnt fix it.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:34 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by SERVED_USMC View Post
For sure. I plan on getting everything before it gets to that point. Just wondering the outcome if it doesnt fix it.
Here is a few things you can do to try to see if the problem is in the clutch hydraulics or the trans synchros/gear.... Get everything hot from a long drive. Then stop in a parking lot, set the e brake, hold the engine rpms up around 3500 - 4000ish and try shifting through all the gears while the car is not moving. If it is grinding then, the clutch isn't releasing all the way. Possible air in line, bad slave...

If it does not grind during the hot high RPM parking lot shifts... then go do some high rpm relatively quick shifts driving on the road. If it's grinding now, likely the issue is in the trans as you just proved the clutch was releasing OK a few minutes ago. A short throw shifter can make the grind worse if trying to shift real fast. These Tremecs don't like to speed shift, especially with a short throw shifter. The synchros need a fraction of a second to spin up the next gear. But it should be able to shift relatively quick at high RPM without grinding. If it can't, might need a synchro/blocker/gear replaced. Those three parts have to be replaced as a matched set.

I'd try experimenting a bit to get an idea of if it's a trans or clutch problem, may save you some time and money chasing the wrong thing.
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by IDEALG View Post
The ZL1 grinds too. I've been saying it from the begining the problem lies in the trans, My Master Cylinder has worked wonders for many people but there are still some of us like the two of you who still have grind issues.

What gets me is why do some do it and some don't. Tremec says that thier TR6060 trans is flawless they deny all claims of grind. I call BS
I can't name names but there are guys I know who spent $6K on upgraded transmissions from known vendors who still have the grind

As far as my master cylinder goes.. I've stated it won't help everyone but it's way better the stock unit. Our clutch fluid gets dirty very fast and that little bit of dirt causes the already weak stock master cylinder to fail even more.
Your modified clutch master cylinder is definitely better than the stock piece. Thanks for that! But, I do know how you feel when it comes to Tremec and this transmission. Even upgraded the TR6060's are having grind issues? That I didn't want to hear since I was eventually going to go that route...
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Old 04-09-2013, 11:10 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
Here is a few things you can do to try to see if the problem is in the clutch hydraulics or the trans synchros/gear.... Get everything hot from a long drive. Then stop in a parking lot, set the e brake, hold the engine rpms up around 3500 - 4000ish and try shifting through all the gears while the car is not moving. If it is grinding then, the clutch isn't releasing all the way. Possible air in line, bad slave...

If it does not grind during the hot high RPM parking lot shifts... then go do some high rpm relatively quick shifts driving on the road. If it's grinding now, likely the issue is in the trans as you just proved the clutch was releasing OK a few minutes ago. A short throw shifter can make the grind worse if trying to shift real fast. These Tremecs don't like to speed shift, especially with a short throw shifter. The synchros need a fraction of a second to spin up the next gear. But it should be able to shift relatively quick at high RPM without grinding. If it can't, might need a synchro/blocker/gear replaced. Those three parts have to be replaced as a matched set.

I'd try experimenting a bit to get an idea of if it's a trans or clutch problem, may save you some time and money chasing the wrong thing.
That Is some good info!
I guess I'm one of the lucky ones but after the MGW shifter it would grind or catch a snag on 2nd sometimes above 5k rpm and with the fluid change, IdealG master, separating the fluids and changing the trans fluid to RedLine I am happy to report there is no grind although in the cold weather below 45 over night 2nd is rough to get into. Otherwise as long as the pedal is to the floor at the shift its great.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:56 PM   #36
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I think this is the same problem I have been chasing. I have noticed that every now and again I will miss second or third. I thought it was to do with over reving, so I installed a shift light to help manage the revs. Still would get a blocked shift every now and again. Next on my mod list was a MGW shifter.

Then last night at the track, the staging lanes are down hill. I sit in the car with the tranny in first clutch out to hold me on the hill. I push the clutch in and I don't roll down the hill...WTF? So I tug on the shifter and cannot easily pull it out of first. I pump the clutch 4-5 times and I start to coast down hill, but can feel the clutch dragging. I already have the Tick line and bleeder installed. No air and the fluid looks good, was just changed in December.

Guess I'm ordering a master cylinder from IdealG this week. Sorry MGW you'll have to wait. If this doesn't cure the tranny is going to RPM for a faced plate conversion
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:47 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by SERVED_USMC View Post
I have to baby it into second if Im getting on it. Clutch pedal in and slowly go into second. If I dont, it will grind all the way through until it catches.

Is this particular problem a common one with this trans, or do I have issues?
Ihad the same issue. Changed out the trans fluid to royal purple and it hasnt ground once since. But i definitly let the temps come up before getting after it.
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