Engine break in methods

[ahart04]

Originally Posted by CatiaJockey

When is someone going to post solid evidence that their chosen method is better than the method that the manual dictates? Show me where compression is higher in the cylinder or that the bearings run with less friction and still maintain the clearance required. Show me where longevity is maintained.... There is no cover up here, the manufacture posts the best available method for yours and their benefit. What are you going to do when the unimaginable happens like you're wrapped up to 7 grand in second gear and the tranny lets loose. The OBD has a record of the event and the service manager says hmmm.... 150 miles and already red lining this engine... what to do, what to do.... why would you put yourself in this position?

Really? The original post has the link! Read it! Thats proof. And manufacturers have more likely given the 'more cautious' method, however this is a method that considers OTHER parts of the car (trans, etc). The topic here is the ENGINE, and this method is proven. Like I said a middle ground is required, obviously I'm not gonna go and redline dump it off the lot. However I WILL step on it the first time I drive it...when she gets here of course!

[Salameth]

What should I do? Two days after I pick up my car I have to drive it 500 miles. How would you recommend I break it in during the trip?

[Gen5SSRS]

Interestingly this same topic of discussion came up when the LS1's came out. At that time it was thought that the engines which went through a longer break-in period (1500 miles) ran faster 1/4 mile times. When I picked up mmy 01 SS, I put 2K miles on it before opening it up. No proof, however mine did consistantly out run the 3 other LS1 cars at the track when I ran it. I don't know how they broke theirs in. If I had to guess, I would say it had more to do with the aluminum block, steel sleeves getting fully situated.

Also, 66k on my LS1, and it has never used an ounce of oil. I heard others complain about their "low oil" light come on between changes.

Anyway I have 450 miles on my LS3, and another 1000 to go. The bottom line is, it's your 30k, Do what feels right and enjoy it.

[Banshee]

Originally Posted by Gen5SSRS

Interestingly this same topic of discussion came up when the LS1's came out. At that time it was thought that the engines which went through a longer break-in period (1500 miles) ran faster 1/4 mile times. When I picked up mmy 01 SS, I put 2K miles on it before opening it up. No proof, however mine did consistantly out run the 3 other LS1 cars at the track when I ran it. I don't know how they broke theirs in. If I had to guess, I would say it had more to do with the aluminum block, steel sleeves getting fully situated.

Also, 66k on my LS1, and it has never used an ounce of oil. I heard others complain about their "low oil" light come on between changes.

Anyway I have 450 miles on my LS3, and another 1000 to go. The bottom line is, it's your 30k, Do what feels right and enjoy it.

My uncle in an enginner for GM and worked for the dyno lab and was specific to ceramics and engine wear. Unc. stated that with the LSX engines, finer crosshatch and ring material, that he wanted me to really get on it within reason and to not follow the GM mandates. He stated that GM was just protecting itself with undue warranty claims and going the safe route with break in contained within the manual.

My girlfriend works for Roush in Dearborn and spoke to several engine builders during a visit there and to get with Scot about taking the Camaro to their track. They all agreed that breaking in the engine this way was preferred.

I broke in my 98 T/A right off the lot almost exactly as my uncle suggested and did the same with my Camaro. I had 168k on the T/A when I sold her in Feb. Burned no oil, ran like a raped ape and burned nothing evident out the tailpipe..

The Camaro had 8 miles on the odometer..did a fast 3rd gear 60 mph romp, then another to 70 with my salesman in the car and with the coatings burning off..after a thorough warm up that is. Then took her on the eway for the 200 mile trip home and had her up to 120.

Will keep you posted if this "controversial" break in method is flawed..May take a decade, but will let you know.

[Van]

Good stuff man. Thanks for the added information and experience. I think that some people can't believe this actually works perhaps because they're holding on to old technology and old advice. It's been proven time and again but for those individuals, until the owner's manual actually comes out in print that breaking in the engine this way doesn't do damage and actually improves performance and longevity, there will always be a rift.

Things change. Just like the whole engine oil thing...it was said to change the oil every 3k miles or 3 months. There was buzz that some mechanics were saying the cars can go for longer -- but typically it was dismissed. Not withstanding is the fact that as of recent years many cars have started coming with engine oil [change] monitors, which ironically don't tell you to change your oil except for every 5k...which ends up being about 2x a year. My mother used to own a BMW--and they told her to change the oil only once a year. My girlfriend's Honda calls for 2x a year (engine oil minder). Though I still change my EVO's oil every 3k miles. I know I'm probably wasting money because the oil still has useable life -- but I just like having cleaner oil in there given the investment I've put into it.

[Outlaw]

Originally Posted by Van

^^Good stuff. Having worked in the motorcycle industry, I know all-too-well the preferred break-in methods used for those engines.

My understanding is that all of these engines are tested at the factory. They're run, at WOT even. However, this isn't to "break in" the engine--but to test that it functions before going in the vehicle. We still do the break-in on it.

From a engineering standpoint -- there's no disputing that the harder break-in method provides both better ring seating and better performance. Its been proven time and time again. Since this method has been utilized -- it also has shown that engines broken in this way also have longevity. No matter which way you slice it.

Engines that pop are typically the result of bad tuning, an inherent flaw in the manufacuring of the engine, or putting too much power through a non-reinforced engine. I've never heard or seen an engine come in because it broke due to improper break-in--not in any of the shops I worked at.

In the manufacturer's method, the general idea is that you break in lightly so that you don't stress the engine thereby causing premature failure of any internal component. However there's an inherent flaw in this thought process. If any component is going to fail, its going to fail regardless because there was something wrong with the engine to begin with. A properly built engine isn't going to fail because of a higher application of load when it was engineered in the first place to create and withstand loads significantly higher (there's always a margin of safety built into these engines which is why you're able to improve HP numbers significantly without upgrading the internals).

One thing people have to remember is that there is a lot more to what the manufacturer recommends than just engine longevity. It's not a conspiracy, no. It's just business. Normal, everyday business.

Awesome. My favorite point ever....going to drive fast now. Actually i already have been!

[Speed74SS]

I picked my car up from LPE with 300 miles on it and they ran it through the dyno 3 or 4 times also. It was about an 700 mile drive home. I have always broken my cars in the way I usually drive them (which is hard) and I haven't had any problems. Even with F/I the break in was the same for me. These are great cars!!

[Gentry78]

Originally Posted by CamaroSpike23

what would give you that idea?

i heard a wise man say it once

[CatiaJockey]

Originally Posted by ahart04

Really? The original post has the link! Read it! Thats proof. And manufacturers have more likely given the 'more cautious' method, however this is a method that considers OTHER parts of the car (trans, etc). The topic here is the ENGINE, and this method is proven. Like I said a middle ground is required, obviously I'm not gonna go and redline dump it off the lot. However I WILL step on it the first time I drive it...when she gets here of course!

I did read that article, and while its a nice interesting read, Motoman did not manufacture my engine nor does he warrant it. I'll stick to who I consider the real engineers and that would be the GM engieers, thank you very much.

[Van]

^^There's nothing wrong with that. You can still seal the rings nicely without going over the 4500 rpm, and you don't need to top it out either.

Within the first 20 miles, vary the RPMS--get on it UP TO the 4500 mark and you'll achieve the same result. Now GM is happy and your rings are happy. You're not breaking any rules and loading it at full throttle for long periods...just a few seconds if that.

At around 1500 miles, the computer may be more acclimated to the more leisure break in driving though--to which you may have to reset it after your break in and then have the ecu re-acclimate to your desired driving style. Then romp it like there's no tomorrow!!!

[V1c1ous]

I gotta go with break it in like your gonna drive it. I've "broke in" many new engines. As soon as I pull off da lot....I'm gonna lite it up. These engines were built to RUN.

[bjzq8]

A 40-year pilot I know has a 30-year A&P mechanic friend that says "break them in hot hard and fast." So after his last Cessna 172 rebuild, they did just that; they firewalled the engine from takeoff to 10,000 feet, pulling a steep 80mph climb the whole way. The engine builder agreed; it will either seize or break in. He watched the oil temperature and could tell; during the climb, the oil temperature stayed near red until it just magically dropped to normal. Then it was broken in. He changed the oil and has never had a problem in the subsequent 15 or so years.

Then again, both he, the A&P, and the engine builder swear by "dusting" an engine to revitalize it. That means starting an AIRCRAFT engine on the ground, removing the air filter, and tossing a bit of abrasive down the carb. He swears that an engine using two quarts an hour of oil will be instantly dry afterwards. So take it with a grain of salt, or abrasive.