Hot starting issues

[ksmrz]

If your near wbd have them fix it. I had there tune and I started over from basically scratch and I'm redoing my tune... For my own reasons

[ksmrz]

Or its in your minimum idle airflow table but seeing that it stays running and does good cold its gotta be cranking airflow

[Cruz-lo]

I had hot start issues.
To the point I felt uncomfortable to drive the car when I had to make more than one stop!

Every time it was warm out and the car was hot it acted like my battery was dead. Worse, after slow cranking was the dreaded stabilitrac error that made the car run terrible.

When cold the car always started just fine.

This all Started after I had the car 2 years. (Took delivery June 2009)
camed and headers for 1.5 of those years.
Even when I installed a high torque starter it did not go away.
New rebuild and 416ci it was still there.
Battery and charging system tested good.
All connecting points and ground checked numerous times.

I even put a known good optima yellow top from another vehicle in and still the same problems.

For my case at that time the problem was the connecting point where the jumper post is under the hood. Even though it was clean and tight. It must have not been passing the current through the starter needed. Those thin cable ends maybe?

I tested this by cutting the insulation off (about 1/2 inch worth) the main cable and the cable running to the starter. then making a temporary jumper with 4 gauge wire around the connecting stud.
Attached with hose clamps. Wrapped it all up in electrical tape and drove like that a few weeks just to see.

All problems gone!

Now I ended up running a second new 1/0 cable from my battery (fused) to the starter directly. Left the factory cable in place to the jumper post. It has been this way now since 2011 with no issues.

But for what it's worth I also know our stock batteries are no match when compared to the new AGM versions. AND maybe had I had a better battery in the first place my story may have been different.

This year in Jan I had to get a new batt. My delco was still testing OK per AAP though. But each cold day (well below freezing) it would lag and crank slow.
Stock batt measured in at 569 CCA 12.62V 59 degreesF
I asked the AAP guy to check the new batt.
He checked it at the same temp and same tool. Came in at 1144 CCA and 12.64V 62 degrees F.

Needless to say the car starts even better now.

Hope this helps...

[h018871]

I just went through a "dragging" starter issue. It really started after I upped the compression a bit, when the engine was hot the starter would turn real slow. I went with a high torque starter from Powermaster.
I spent a lot of time talking to JR in tech support and also Dave (head engineer). They ended up putting together a "hybrid" starter for me. It's a 9509, but with 2.4hp to fit my needs. Basically give them a call or drop them an email with your issues and they'll fix it.

I don't have any experience with other aftermarket manufacturers, so I can't comment further.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out

[h018871]

Originally Posted by Cruz-lo

I had hot start issues.
To the point I felt uncomfortable to drive the car when I had to make more than one stop!

Every time it was warm out and the car was hot it acted like my battery was dead. Worse, after slow cranking was the dreaded stabilitrac error that made the car run terrible.

When cold the car always started just fine.

This all Started after I had the car 2 years. (Took delivery June 2009)
camed and headers for 1.5 of those years.
Even when I installed a high torque starter it did not go away.
New rebuild and 416ci it was still there.
Battery and charging system tested good.
All connecting points and ground checked numerous times.

I even put a known good optima yellow top from another vehicle in and still the same problems.

For my case at that time the problem was the connecting point where the jumper post is under the hood. Even though it was clean and tight. It must have not been passing the current through the starter needed. Those thin cable ends maybe?

I tested this by cutting the insulation off (about 1/2 inch worth) the main cable and the cable running to the starter. then making a temporary jumper with 4 gauge wire around the connecting stud.
Attached with hose clamps. Wrapped it all up in electrical tape and drove like that a few weeks just to see.

All problems gone!

Now I ended up running a second new 1/0 cable from my battery (fused) to the starter directly. Left the factory cable in place to the jumper post. It has been this way now since 2011 with no issues.

But for what it's worth I also know our stock batteries are no match when compared to the new AGM versions. AND maybe had I had a better battery in the first place my story may have been different.

This year in Jan I had to get a new batt. My delco was still testing OK per AAP though. But each cold day (well below freezing) it would lag and crank slow.
Stock batt measured in at 569 CCA 12.62V 59 degreesF
I asked the AAP guy to check the new batt.
He checked it at the same temp and same tool. Came in at 1144 CCA and 12.64V 62 degrees F.

Needless to say the car starts even better now.

Hope this helps...

This is good info

[Cruz-lo]

[Cruz-lo]

[silverz28]

Took your advice tonight and got an AGM battery. If I start to have the prob again starting, I will try your other method. Along where did you run the 1/0 cable from the battery to the starter? Outside the car I assume. Is it necessary to do that and the jumper?

[vroomapunk]

I've had the same issue multiple times.

[Cruz-lo]

Originally Posted by silverz28

Took your advice tonight and got an AGM battery. If I start to have the prob again starting, I will try your other method. Along where did you run the 1/0 cable from the battery to the starter? Outside the car I assume. Is it necessary to do that and the jumper?

Great. For me testing both batteries at AAP gave me the confidence it was worth the investment before I coughed up the cash.

I ran the 1/0 exactly next to the factory cable from the battery all the way through the inside of the car. then at the firewall I drilled a hole for it to go through in the same area.

I used split loom (Automotive heat resistant and not the parts plus or radio shack type stuff that melts) everywhere the cable may rub on something.

Hardest part of the whole thing was where the cable runs around the front of the engine. Taking that channel off and getting the old cable out and new cable in was a pita. But I did it with out taking anything on the engine apart. Just dropped the starter of course.

I bought the cable, heat resistant loom, and and the crimp connectors at http://www.wiringproducts.com/ they have it all!

Hope this helps and let us know if the AGM Batt alone helps.

[Cruz-lo]

[QUOTE=silverz28;
Is it necessary to do that and the jumper?[/QUOTE]

The Jumper was only a test. When I saw how much it helped, I removed it and ran the second 1/0 all the way.

A dedicated cable from the Battery ONLY for the starter. MAX current for the starter without impacting the path from the battery to the rest of the cars needs...

I felt like the starter was pulling so much current it was screwing with the ECM and other modules. Pulling the voltage so low it was throwing the stabilitrac error.
Ruined many outings forcing embarrassing limp mode drives home instead.

[silverz28]

AGM battery is great but did not fix the problem. I'm having the hot start problem again. On another note, the BAP was taken off and the battery is no longer draining. I need to do something about this since it is my daily driver.

[Retro69]

Originally Posted by Cruz-lo

The Jumper was only a test. When I saw how much it helped, I removed it and ran the second 1/0 all the way.

A dedicated cable from the Battery ONLY for the starter. MAX current for the starter without impacting the path from the battery to the rest of the cars needs...

I felt like the starter was pulling so much current it was screwing with the ECM and other modules. Pulling the voltage so low it was throwing the stabilitrac error.
Ruined many outings forcing embarrassing limp mode drives home instead.

I think I'm going to try this, too. Do you recall how much cable and loom you bought? Also you said you had fuse protection on the dedicated cable. What kind of fuse is that? What's it's capacity?

[silverz28]

My mystery has been solved. First, my battery was draining somehow. I had a BAP installed incorrectly by a local shop. When a different shop installed my Fore Innovations fuel system, they took off the BAP and now no more battery drain. But, I still had a hot starting issue. That turned out to be an engine ground issue. The ground wire to the head on the passenger’s side welded itself to the bolt and was arching. Now, it starts every time. Hope this helps someone. It was an aggravating problem for about 8 months.