Shifting in a 1LE

[mbowen89]

No just driving around local.

[scdude37]

By hitting top rpm thats just the rev limiter. Yes the computer is in there to really not cause any damage. Just try not to make it a normal process and it should be fine.

[CreeperRS]

Originally Posted by scdude37

By hitting top rpm thats just the rev limiter. Yes the computer is in there to really not cause any damage. Just try not to make it a normal process and it should be fine.

[Drumminxx]

Originally Posted by CreeperRS

Just don't throw it in 2nd at 100mph. Even the Rev limiter won't be able to help you there.

[cajun1le]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Keeping the clutch in all the time puts unneeded pressure on your thrust bearing in the engine. That leads to thrust failures over time.

I guess I have to dig into the weeds a little.

Does it apply some progressive pressure to the thrust bearing, yes it does. Although in the long run the wear, if any is negligible because it's a fluid bearing just like the journal/rod bearings and oil is being applied to it so long as the engine is running. Lugging a engine in a tall gear at low RPMs does far more damage because the force applied to the thrust bearing is equal to about 4-6 times the alternative. Not to mention, it's an impacting force that has the possibility of washing oil from the fluid bearing causing scaring and wear over time. So which method is worse? One that leaves oil at the bearing or one that washes it away?

But like I said before, you can do whatever you want. I'm just throwing out a few pointers from what I observe at my shop. As with everything there are pros and cons with whatever you decide to do. Its up to you to determine your risk level. I hope this helps.

<note to self> add this topic to the list of "topics to avoid" along with: religion, politics, when to change oil, how to winter/spring prep your car.... lol

[cajun1le]

One more thing about the lugging equation that I forgot to mention. When you start to lug the engine and you increase the calculated load, the engine will then increase the air/fuel mix to a fuel rich condition within the cylinder. This causes a couple of things:
1. the fuel rich environment will wash the oil from the cylinder wall
2. unburnt fuel will bypass the rings and get to the oil
3. knocking will occur which damages the cylinder walls and the piston

[mbowen89]

If I'm going 55mph in 6th gear and press pedal to the floor, it hardly raises the rpm, actually, you can hardly tell it's responding to the throttle at all. This is still opening the throttle body wide open and dumping in more fuel even though nothing noticeable is happening?

[SimpleGreen]

Originally Posted by mbowen89

If I'm going 55mph in 6th gear and press pedal to the floor, it hardly raises the rpm, actually, you can hardly tell it's responding to the throttle at all. This is still opening the throttle body wide open and dumping in more fuel even though nothing noticeable is happening?

When you do that the car is trying to run full throttle but you are in much too steep a gear to make much headway.

It's not as great for fuel mileage but I usually keep it in 5th when running 55 and under. More pedal response and my lazy ass doesn't have to keep downshifting out of 6th gear for slow pokes.

[sherob]

Originally Posted by cajun1le

Coasting in neutral is bad because of the unequal rotations between the input and output shafts of the transmission while the car is in motion. You can do whatever you want, I'm just throwing out a few pointers.

Really? Please post proof of that.

After all of these years of driving a manual what I've learned is it's cheaper to replace brake pads than a clutch.

As far as safety, it's not something I would do...

[cajun1le]

Originally Posted by SimpleGreen

When you do that the car is trying to run full throttle but you are in much too steep a gear to make much headway.

It's not as great for fuel mileage but I usually keep it in 5th when running 55 and under. More pedal response and my lazy ass doesn't have to keep downshifting out of 6th gear for slow pokes.

That what I find myself doing as well.

Mbowen, driving at 55mph in 6th is lugging the engine. Especially when going WOT. At that speed the engine is only turning around 1100rpms and that juggling/rattle sound you hear from the engine bay is the engine knocking. As SimpleGreen mentioned, try dropping a gear or two and then step on it if that's what you want to do.

[cajun1le]

Originally Posted by sherob

Really? Please post proof of that.

After all of these years of driving a manual what I've learned is it's cheaper to replace brake pads than a clutch.

As far as safety, it's not something I would do...

But like I said before, you can do whatever you want. I'm just throwing out a few pointers for the original poster.

Think about it, when your coasting with the clutch engaged one half(3 gears) of the gears are spinning at the speed of the engine and the other half of the gears is connected the rear wheels traveling at whatever speed your going. I would rather coast in gear or wear out my pilot and throwout bearings instead of placing excessive wear on the syncros and shaft bearings. But that's me (hence the "do whatever you want" phrase). By disengaging the clutch you allow both halves to free spin at the same speed. Hence, less wear on the transmission. Why do you think they tell you to disconnect the driveshaft if you tow the car on a car dolly? Same principle.

Edit: refer to your owners manual under "Vehicle Care 10-97". It doesn't go into specifics but does mention that you will damage the car. If you ask your local service tech, they will tell you the exact same thing that I'm telling you but in laymen terms. Can I finish my beer now, its getting warm... lol

[vinman]

Anyone know if there is much difference between the v6 and v8 clutch as far as effort goes?

[camari]

I didn't read all of this so someone might have mentioned it already but the stupid skip shift goes away if you keep it in first a little longer and get up over like 19mph, or if you accelerate from the start harder.

IMO your problem is you're shifting too early from first to second.

Also basically everyone's going to say something different because everyone drives stick in their own signature way. Listen to what your car is saying and you'll also learn to literally feel when it's happiest and that will answer your braking question. Then you can drive it whatever way feels best or makes the most sense for you. It depends on the situation whether I pop it into neutral and coast or not. Just keep driving and get more miles under your belt with it, 500 is nothin' xoxo

[Drm2Reality]

I don't own a 1LE yet, but I have driven a few. I thought the shifting was effortless.

I was planning on keeping my ZL1 until I drove...but am switching based on the sole fact that you can actually rev out the 1LE and feel the car pull. My ZL1...just as I feel it to get going...I hit the rev limiter. IT ROYALLY PISSES ME OFF.

When I am driving I don't look at anything but what's ahead...shifting all by sound and feel.

I didn't try downshifting too much on the test drives so I don't have much to comment on that.