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#29 |
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Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,648
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Ok so I got my car to turn on I videod it so I'll post what happened when I get it uploaded. And I figured out which relay is buzzing does that mean it needs to be replaced or what? It stops buzzing though
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Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.
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#30 | |
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If the relay is buzzing when you're turning your key, it's most likely the relay requesting the starter to crank. Camaro is "tip start" so the key turn actually goes into the computer and the computer says "turn on". Buzz is most likely your starter relay. It pulls in a solenoid in the starter that closes a higher current contact and pulls in your spur gear to engage and spin the flywheel. Did you identify which relay is buzzing? That's your first step. Put your battery on a charger for a few hours and see if the symptom disappears. If keeping your battery charged helps, then you've got a charging problem. Battery cables and starter connections are infamous for being intermittent, but it really seems like your problem is before the starter. |
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#31 | |
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Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,648
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Ok so after having the car battery unplugged overnight I came back to try it the next day. This time when I put the key in and turned power on (I didn't crank) I got the same lights and buzzing noise as yesterday. I went out and checked and found the relay that was buzzing then it stopped (does it need to be replaced?) but I don't think that matters because I rearranged different relays last night and it still didn't turn on so I don't know why it did today. Then I went in the car and cranked it and you can see what it day like yesterday the click sound but atleast it turned on! Then I turned it off and back on. You can still hear how it ticks right before it cranks. So what needs to be replaced? I don't want to drive it, because then I would be playing Russian roulette having to risk getting stuck and it not turning on when I'm out. Here's the vid:
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Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.
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#32 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: car Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: somewhere
Posts: 179
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Why don't you take your damn car to a mechanic, STFU and quit whining.
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#33 | ||
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#34 |
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Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,648
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I don't know I've only tested the buzzing location once. I just went out and put my key in and turned power on and no buzzing now so I can't tell you but I switched the 2 relays back. If it's buzzing does that mean the little grey box thing itself is messed up or it's telling u something is messed up in the car by buzzing in that specific spot?
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Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.
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#35 |
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old school chevy rodder
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Wow...car wont start.... starter or solenoid is the oldest and most common things to check on a car especially with headers.................. Drop the starter take it in to a shop and get it tested for free at any good rebuild or battery store. I am sorry for you homeless dude.... Learn from my lesson: 16k miles a 13s starter getting weaker sounds like what you went through......
Heck I used to just cross the terminals of a starter with a screw driver on a car in neutral of course by going to the solenoid and going from the battery cable connected to it to one of the two posts coming out that are there and see if it worked, crap I had cars that ate solenoids friggin often...... A solenoid is a switch basically with a copper ring that pits where it arcs when its pushed to make a connection by a spring to allow the car to crank the starter..... I have even taken out cleaned up the copper rings by sanding etc.. to make them fine. I hated always getting under my old chevys to drop a starter but hey a couple bolts then the wires and man they were heavy compared to ours...... SO HEY you wanna go listen to all these electrical theories, mine is easy to prove, disconnect the battery get under it and make a couple jumper wires off the solenoid to connect to each other when you reconnect the battery..... if its starts when you cross the wires if its keyed on if keyed off it should crank at least.....,( be sure its parked in neutral), you have a bad solenoid........ and solenoids are cheaper than starters that's for sure. I went whole starter because I was not going to get mine rebuilt and wait for it, or just try a solenoid and wait to get one I had to drive my car for a while as you did...... a little too long though BUD for you in your case.... I used to have a remote switched starter too on some cars for a extra safety feature to avoid theft hidden under a dash...etc....
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#36 |
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#37 |
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Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,648
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Lol look at all his 17 posts. They are all troll posts.
And is the starter easy to replace myself? Don't wanna waste the money if I'm not sure that's exactly what the problem and don't know how to run that test you mentioned lol. Anyways I installed the headers myself does the starter require wiring or is it bolts and plug and play? Hard to reach? Thanks for the info
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Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.
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#38 | |
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You're going to have to get your charging system checked, and possibly pull the starter, but I would be surprised if that was the problem. I've done the remote starter and the screwdriver across the starter terminals a thousand times in the military. Typical behaviour for a bad starter is "turn key, no click". The buzzing relay is a symptom of the real problem. Last "starter" problem I diagnosed was about a month ago and it was a bad battery and alternator in a Tahoe. Battery, alternator, cables, starter. It's probably going to be one of those... |
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#39 | |
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You can take it in and they can set it up and check it. |
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#40 |
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I know you are trying to save money, but everyone including you are just guessing on what it is... you could be guessing for weeks trying to figure this out... get it towed to a dealer and they will tell you what it is within an hour... then make the judgement call on whether to have them fix it or you could do the work yourself..
save yourself some stress... trust me
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My Daily Driver, 2015 2SS, 1LE
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#41 | ||
![]() Drives: 2011 SS/RS , L99 convertible Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 310
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You keep asking if you should replace the relay, but a low charge or poor connection could cause the relay to buzz, (as many have said) A relay is less than 10 bucks so why not try it? But do this first. Disconnect your battery overnite, with a charger set at 2amp (trickle charge). Charge over nite, reconnect battery and try to start. The report back to us.
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#42 |
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Homeless Life Chose Me
Drives: LS3 (sold 4/21) Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Streets of Philly
Posts: 3,648
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Thing is I don't have a charger. The car starts now wouldn't driving it a good distance charge it all the way? And this battery is less than a month old I think. New AC Delco from Amazon
And I might take it to the dealer next week but I didnt want them to hold it for like a whole day with all that hassle and then give me an outrageous fix. How much do they charge to just look at it? Even though I am homeless I have things to do
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Pity a man in familiar places, who yet feels like a stranger.
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