Options for lowering my 2014 2ss

[Clarksroom]

I love the fact that when you get ready to do something someone else is doing the same and your questions get answered before you even ask. Thanks to all for the info, dropping mine next week and glad to know what I need to do.

Much appreciated!!

[DagoCountyGee]

Originally Posted by Spec

Okay... when discussing handling, I will add that the Hotchkis Sways and End links are also a must, along side their great springs. Note and disclaimer, I don't work for Hotchkis... This is just my personal opinion about this set.

The sway bars are thicker and stronger than the 1LE set, and the spring/sway set up is fine tuned to work together by Hotchkis after plenty a test here and there. These things compliment each other for sure.

While another huge plus you're getting with this set is how much you're quite literally eliminating that nose dive when braking. I was very pleasantly surprised that the stiffer springs keep the entire car very level when braking. In stop and go traffic its very cool that you're not diving into the pavement when braking. Add a turn and the thick sways and endlinks go to work, having you carve through those bends effortlessly. I still so love carving through the Santa Barbara/Ventura Hills every now and then.

Add to that the Chassis Brace!! That butterfly looking gizmo shown below, Guys - let me tell you that this item is a must, even if you don't have the Hotchkis springs and sways etc. This truly made the car feel like its a rock on rails, tying the rear and front to one solid piece, preventing the back end from hopping around like its got a mind of its own on these cars. It is well worth the $$ for any Camaro - even if you don't lower it or swap out any other part of your suspension. This unit will IMPROVE your experience, hands down.

On the Strut side, I personally went with a BMR 4 point. A nice, strong, firm set-up up above keeps those towers in place, preventing body flexing on them fast/tight turns... Going with either a Hotchkis or anything else here, that is truly functional, will work nicely. I don't really know the difference between the Hotchkis Strut Bar or the BMR 4 point in regards to stiffness control and how one would feel compared to the other... but I reckon the difference is negligible between the 2. Both are 4-point and look awesome in my book.

You start with Springs... but go for functionality and you will not stop there. With this set you can be sure you're getting quality AND performance.

About how much is this setup?

[Spec]

Originally Posted by DagoCountyGee

About how much is this setup?

About $1775 is the list price from the Hotchkis website, but Phastekperformance.com has it for about $330 cheaper.

I pieced mine together and probably paid more in the end... but it worked out for me as I couldn't dish out over 1k all at once at the time I was working on my suspension.

I started with the springs, then about a month later bought the sways and end links, then after a couple of months later I finally got the Chassis Brace which was a very pleasant surprise. I wasn't sure at the time it was worth it. IT WAS. Then I picked between the BMR and the Hotchkis strut brace and went BMR.

Installed a set of BMR bushings for the front and rear end shortly after.

[UBB]

https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...-38144.880.htm

[Terryfied]

I also went with Hotchkis springs (1" drop), sway bars and end links. Get the BMR end link reinforcing brackets while you're at it. Upgrade the trailing arms along with poly bushings to kill wheel hop too. Good quality coil overs are best but I'm not skilled enough to adjust them accordingly so I went the simple route. Still pondering the max chassis brace. Can't afford any less clearance since I scrape my pipes occasionally. With these mods the car feels so much more tight and planted. I'm a track rat whenever possible and I'm really diggin the new feel. There's a definate harsher ride but it's so worth the improved handling. I didn't cut down my bump stops as recommended but wonder if I should have when I bottom out hard on extreme road depressions at higher speeds.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by Terryfied

I also went with Hotchkis springs (1" drop), sway bars and end links. Get the BMR end link reinforcing brackets while you're at it. Upgrade the trailing arms along with poly bushings to kill wheel hop too. Good quality coil overs are best but I'm not skilled enough to adjust them accordingly so I went the simple route. Still pondering the max chassis brace. Can't afford any less clearance since I scrape my pipes occasionally. With these mods the car feels so much more tight and planted. I'm a track rat whenever possible and I'm really diggin the new feel. There's a definate harsher ride but it's so worth the improved handling. I didn't cut down my bump stops as recommended but wonder if I should have when I bottom out hard on extreme road depressions at higher speeds.

The max chassis brace is low profile. Its tubes are not round, they're flatter than... say... the sway bars.

I pondered on getting it for a good while too... when I finally pulled the trigger and installed it, I was very glad I did.

Its worth the close to 500 dollars it cost for sure! I reckon you're about as low as I am and I have no issues. Pipes will still be lower and closer to the ground after installation.

I also didn't cut down my bump spots by this only becomes a problem with potholes lol.

Lastly, the ride isn't that much harsher... of course its stiffer but you're absolutely right - you are more planted and stable, and will have effectively improved your handling. Now get that Chassis Brace and feel what you're still missing!

[Terryfied]

Originally Posted by Spec

The max chassis brace is low profile. Its tubes are not round, they're flatter than... say... the sway bars.

I pondered on getting it for a good while too... when I finally pulled the trigger and installed it, I was very glad I did.

Its worth the close to 500 dollars it cost for sure! I reckon you're about as low as I am and I have no issues. Pipes will still be lower and closer to the ground after installation.

I also didn't cut down my bump spots by this only becomes a problem with potholes lol.

Lastly, the ride isn't that much harsher... of course its stiffer but you're absolutely right - you are more planted and stable, and will have effectively improved your handling. Now get that Chassis Brace and feel what you're still missing!

Good to hear about the chassis brace clearance. Guess who's dropping another $480?

[johnwick12]

camaro for sell 76 anyone

[justjoshin]

I have the Hotchkis springs (1" drop) and the 1LE performance suspension package installed. 20x9 front 20x10 rear wheels with 275/40 tires on all 4.

[2SSJMMY]

i want to buy bmr lowering springs to lower 1.25 all the way around. do i need like a center of gravity correction kit or lowering kit correction kit? just wondering if i need to do something else when i lower it.

[redcoats1976]

i have noticed a lot of comments about "timing the bushings" in this thread...can someone educate me on this please?

[larry_g]

Originally Posted by redcoats1976

i have noticed a lot of comments about "timing the bushings" in this thread...can someone educate me on this please?

Basically, install the bushings but leave the bolts a little loose. Put the weight of the car back on the suspension and then tighten the bolts. This keeps the bushings from being in a bind if they are tightened with the suspension unloaded.



Sent from my Pixel 8 Pro using Tapatalk

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by 2SSJMMY

i want to buy bmr lowering springs to lower 1.25 all the way around. do i need like a center of gravity correction kit or lowering kit correction kit? just wondering if i need to do something else when i lower it.

No you don't need anything else. Just to "clock the bushings" as mentioned above, then a new alignment..

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by larry_g

Basically, install the bushings but leave the bolts a little loose. Put the weight of the car back on the suspension and then tighten the bolts. This keeps the bushings from being in a bind if they are tightened with the suspension unloaded.



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Yep, what larry said..