Venting

[MPrento84]

Artryan, i was like you and left well enough alone, until a valve spring broke randomly. While i was in there for repairs, i upgraded the cam and valve train. i got really lucky that i didnt drop the valve.

so moral of the story, it may be time to upgrade the valve springs especially if you have the yellow ones. you can do this ahead of the cam if you know what you want.

i went with btr stage 2 and dyno'd 456. happy with the results.

[Artryan]

Originally Posted by MPrento84

Artryan, i was like you and left well enough alone, until a valve spring broke randomly. While i was in there for repairs, i upgraded the cam and valve train. i got really lucky that i didnt drop the valve.

so moral of the story, it may be time to upgrade the valve springs especially if you have the yellow ones. you can do this ahead of the cam if you know what you want.

i went with btr stage 2 and dyno'd 456. happy with the results.

This is the first I've heard of "yellow springs." Is there some range in the production run that used them or something? Is there any way to tell if you have them other than taking off the valve cover?

Also, I've also been curious why everyone uses the stage 3 cam? I assume it strictly a power thing, but would a stage 1 or 2 give you added power while being more driver friendly?

[d kings z28]

New GM LS 3 525hp. Just a drop in sell the old one by the time you pay shop on the old one cheaper in long run, just 🤔

[Roader]

Originally Posted by Artryan

This is the first I've heard of "yellow springs." Is there some range in the production run that used them or something? Is there any way to tell if you have them other than taking off the valve cover?

Also, I've also been curious why everyone uses the stage 3 cam? I assume it strictly a power thing, but would a stage 1 or 2 give you added power while being more driver friendly?

Higher stage more aggressive and more power. Blower cams have stages too different from NA. I’ve been on a sflycut SS 4 cam for 3 years and no issues other than I’ve went thru more tires.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by Roader

Higher stage more aggressive and more power. Blower cams have stages too different from NA. I’ve been on a sflycut SS 4 cam for 3 years and no issues other than I’ve went thru more tires.

Yep, go big or go home. I have the SS4 and my next cam will be a solid roller. I just need more stall, gotta get my hands on one of those 5k "Roader style" stalls.

[lazerlemonta]

Originally Posted by Artryan

This is the first I've heard of "yellow springs." Is there some range in the production run that used them or something? Is there any way to tell if you have them other than taking off the valve cover?

Also, I've also been curious why everyone uses the stage 3 cam? I assume it strictly a power thing, but would a stage 1 or 2 give you added power while being more driver friendly?

You could take a hole saw and cut a window in the valve cover to see the color of the springs..... if its a 2010 it likely has yellow.... Somewhere in the 2010 - 2011 production run they swapped from old yellow ls6 to the blue in the ls3. spring rates are the same. My 2010 C6 had yellow and my 2012 5th gen had blue

[PepeLePew]

Originally Posted by lazerlemonta

You could take a hole saw and cut a window in the valve cover to see the color of the springs..... if its a 2010 it likely has yellow.... Somewhere in the 2010 - 2011 production run they swapped from old yellow ls6 to the blue in the ls3. spring rates are the same. My 2010 C6 had yellow and my 2012 5th gen had blue

hole saw is a great idea to check valve spring color

My 2010 5th gen had blue springs until I changed them with the cam swap at 125k miles. I also used the blue springs on a 5.3 with a .525 lift GM ASA cam and they worked great.

I remember reading about a bad batch of springs that were produced in the 2002-2004 range and they all happened to be yellow. My sister had a 2005 C6 with the yellow springs and had one break with about 25K miles on the car. It was fixed under warranty and there was no other valve train damage. I haven't personally heard of any valve spring issues with either blues or yellows outside of that production range. And GM says they are the exact same springs with just different paint color.

[Moto-Mojo]

It's threads like these that reinforce the fact that a) I don't know a real reputable shop, b) don't have the stomach for problems and c) can't afford to do it more than once when it goes south. Especially if it makes it through the speed shop warranty period, which is what, when you leave the driveway? Good luck, man.

[Bluebagger06]

Yeah just a update, almost 2 weeks and shop still hasn’t touched my car👎

[Bluebagger06]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

It's threads like these that reinforce the fact that a) I don't know a real reputable shop, b) don't have the stomach for problems and c) can't afford to do it more than once when it goes south. Especially if it makes it through the speed shop warranty period, which is what, when you leave the driveway? Good luck, man.

I know what you mean,The shop my car is at is a advertiser on here and didnt read nothing bad about them either but as they say, hindsight is 20/20

[PhantomBlack]

This is really unfortunate to hear. That shop needs to get rolling soon and start tearing it down to find the issue. I'm praying it's something minor and didn't completely ruin the engine. This is one of the reasons why I made the trip to GPI themselves for my cam swap. Peace of mind my car is in good hands. I hope that shop will make things right for you OP, good luck!

[christianchevell]

30 30 warranty is Bull a good shop stands behind something they did and when they know it has not been abused...………. that's 30ft or 30 seconds which ever comes first, give a shop that label on here with their name and it may prove a down fall that others will learn from and eventually closes the shop through being able to search online for problems with shops BTW.....

Minor complaints at shops are like nothing but big ones...……… so research the parts you want and the safest mods to do to support them is the smart thing to do, don't have a shop that's like ;"well o.k." raise your upper rev limit and then get miffed when its trashed down the road and you have no bars on the rockers and trunnion upgrades and quality lifters etc...… That's my thoughts on mods with shops......research the shop, all the parts, all the supporting mods, then do it again and again and Save $$$$

A car gets to the back burner because the doors have to stay open making money, and eating a loss if they were to pay for parts from their being trashed well that's not something making money and eating sour grapes is hard, but then again a used engine can mean a pre-existing condition, a improperly broke in engine its on you, a bad part failure even when new does rarely happen, stuff does happen. Determining what happened well if your not into tearing it down yourself and a old motorhead like me..MEH, your at the mercy of the shop to tell you what happened...… And that's kind of where your stuck, Good Luck to you...……… I have to wait months for work from my tuner as he's that in demand..... and in the Summer....its only that much worse. But he is the best around here by far. And as we all know $$$$$$$$$$$ talks..... BS walks, ass, gas , or grass as the bumper sticker used to read. Happy Fourth if you can!

[Roader]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

30 30 warranty is Bull a good shop stands behind something they did and when they know it has not been abused...………. that's 30ft or 30 seconds which ever comes first, give a shop that label on here with their name and it may prove a down fall that others will learn from and eventually closes the shop through being able to search online for problems with shops BTW.....

Minor complaints at shops are like nothing but big ones...……… so research the parts you want and the safest mods to do to support them is the smart thing to do, don't have a shop that's like ;"well o.k." raise your upper rev limit and then get miffed when its trashed down the road and you have no bars on the rockers and trunnion upgrades and quality lifters etc...… That's my thoughts on mods with shops......research the shop, all the parts, all the supporting mods, then do it again and again and Save $$$$

A car gets to the back burner because the doors have to stay open making money, and eating a loss if they were to pay for parts from their being trashed well that's not something making money and eating sour grapes is hard, but then again a used engine can mean a pre-existing condition, a improperly broke in engine its on you, a bad part failure even when new does rarely happen, stuff does happen. Determining what happened well if your not into tearing it down yourself and a old motorhead like me..MEH, your at the mercy of the shop to tell you what happened...… And that's kind of where your stuck, Good Luck to you...……… I have to wait months for work from my tuner as he's that in demand..... and in the Summer....its only that much worse. But he is the best around here by far. And as we all know $$$$$$$$$$$ talks..... BS walks, ass, gas , or grass as the bumper sticker used to read. Happy Fourth if you can!

There is at least one shop on here it hasn’t stopped that is “reputable”

[Artryan]

I personally feel that if a shop is doing you wrong, then you should publicly put them on blast. Of course, there are two sides to every story, and it would give the shop a means of getting their side of the story out. IMHO, protecting the name(s) of businesses that don't treat ALL of their customers right is doing a disservice to others that may be on the fence about choosing one shop over another.