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Old 09-06-2021, 07:57 PM   #29
Black_SS10
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I've installed it. I finished my engine and TT install this past saturday. I need to install my Fore fuel system and tune it. Waiting on little odds and ends plus work really pushed off finishing it. When you wrench all day you don't always feel like working on your own ride. Lol
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Old 09-06-2021, 09:22 PM   #30
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Yes, I'll have a better update in a few days, super busy right now.
But....
Overall a good clutch, sometimes inconsistent feel and that feel has a narrow threshold, but my engine definitely revs faster, my shit light is coming on at the end of Pitt Race's long front stretch when it never did before. I can come out of the two slow corners better now too. I've done 7 track days this summer so far and it has not given me one ounce of trouble. I've bled the fluid a couple of times this summer just to keep some fresh stuff in it. Tilton does not recommend some of the super high temp DOT 4 fluids that we track guys use in our brakes. Tilton has a max dry temp boiling point for a fluid that is to be used. "No fluids over xxx*F. " I don't remember the # but it is in the instructions. I choose Brembo Premium DOT 4 fluid that falls within their specs.
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Old 09-06-2021, 11:33 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Black_SS10 View Post
I know with most clutches, ceramic will hold more power but is more grabby, on and off feeling. Organic holds less power but is less on and off feeling. My mcleod twin ceramic rxt is on the touchy side and won't hold the power I am planning for.
Why not send the Mcleod you already have back in to them and have it upgraded to the 1200? That's what I have and currently run 985 at the tire and she holds great. Also, maybe I'm just use to it but I don't feel like it's grabby at all. I sent it off when I had my car in the shop this last go round and had the whole clutch back from them within a week. Just something to think about and maybe save you some money.
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Old 09-07-2021, 07:05 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by fireman1153 View Post
Why not send the Mcleod you already have back in to them and have it upgraded to the 1200? That's what I have and currently run 985 at the tire and she holds great. Also, maybe I'm just use to it but I don't feel like it's grabby at all. I sent it off when I had my car in the shop this last go round and had the whole clutch back from them within a week. Just something to think about and maybe save you some money.
Much too late for that. Lol. I wanted a much sturdier clutch setup and didn't want to wait for a turn around. I wasn't that impressed with the McLeod.
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Old 09-11-2021, 04:29 AM   #33
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Much too late for that. Lol. I wanted a much sturdier clutch setup and didn't want to wait for a turn around. I wasn't that impressed with the McLeod.
Yeah, my bad. I noticed that after I hit the submit button. I didn't realize the thread was on the third page and I commented after reading page 1. I hope you like what you have and just to change things up, I'll probably be trying out a Mantic or Monster clutch once I need another one myself. Every since the break in with the new Mcleod I have had a pretty noticeable rattle when the clutch is disengaged and I didn't have that before the upgrade.
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Old 09-11-2021, 04:06 PM   #34
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Yeah, my bad. I noticed that after I hit the submit button. I didn't realize the thread was on the third page and I commented after reading page 1. I hope you like what you have and just to change things up, I'll probably be trying out a Mantic or Monster clutch once I need another one myself. Every since the break in with the new Mcleod I have had a pretty noticeable rattle when the clutch is disengaged and I didn't have that before the upgrade.
Np. The Mcleod I had was noisy. I broke two Mantic clutches. All have been twin ceramic style. I am hoping this will be the last clutch. Lol
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Old 09-11-2021, 06:36 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
Yes, I'll have a better update in a few days, super busy right now.
But....
Overall a good clutch, sometimes inconsistent feel and that feel has a narrow threshold, but my engine definitely revs faster, my shit light is coming on at the end of Pitt Race's long front stretch when it never did before. I can come out of the two slow corners better now too. I've done 7 track days this summer so far and it has not given me one ounce of trouble. I've bled the fluid a couple of times this summer just to keep some fresh stuff in it. Tilton does not recommend some of the super high temp DOT 4 fluids that we track guys use in our brakes. Tilton has a max dry temp boiling point for a fluid that is to be used. "No fluids over xxx*F. " I don't remember the # but it is in the instructions. I choose Brembo Premium DOT 4 fluid that falls within their specs.

So I'm not sure why there feel is inconsistent. I think it's heat driven, but the operation stays the same.

When I first installed it, I was surprised at how stiff it felt vs the OE clutch. But, now, I don't even notice it, or it lightened up by itself. So that's a non-issue now. It is worth mentioning that I had my trans rebuilt by Bowler over the winter also. My trans was getting difficult to engage 2nd and 3rd gear. Even after the rebuild I occasionally still have this. Also, I installed a new OE master.

On track, as I mentioned above, the 11lb lighter weight vs the OE clutch is noticeable. Pitt Race has two tight sections, turns 5/6 and 17/18. Some guys downshift to second there, but I stay in third and the pull out of those corners now with the Tilton is alot better. The engine winds up better and with the exit of 17/18 being better, the run down the next straightaway is faster. Before the Tilton my shift light never came on right before I would start to brake for turn 1. I have my shift light setup to come on a few hundred rpm before the actual rev limiter engages. That gives me a little bit of a window to shift. Now with the Tilton the shift light is coming on at the end of the straightaway and realistically, I should short shift into 5th to keep from hitting the rev limit when I really start pushing the late braking.

I think I would buy this clutch again. Maybe if I had experienced driving another clutch, my opinion would change. I guess time will tell how it lasts and if it stays consistent. I'm only 443 rear wheel HP, so there's not big stresses on it. And there are no odd noises too.
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Old 09-12-2021, 02:06 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Black_SS10 View Post
Np. The Mcleod I had was noisy. I broke two Mantic clutches. All have been twin ceramic style. I am hoping this will be the last clutch. Lol
That's good to know on the Mantic. I think I'll steer clear. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:16 PM   #37
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That's good to know on the Mantic. I think I'll steer clear. Thanks for the heads up.
Np. The Mantic was the best feeling, light pedal, and easy to modulate. But in the end didn't work for me.
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Old 10-06-2021, 08:28 PM   #38
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If I may jump in on this thread to get info from more experienced folks

I just picked up a zl1 vert. As far as I can tell it is original with 1 mod. It has a McLeod rxt clutch with steel flywheel. I’m not going to do any power upgrades and the rxt(ceramic) clutch is not to my liking. Too grabby or on/off out of 1st gear.

Question: go back to OEM clutch, send McLeod clutch back to get organic(RST) set up or go tilton organic set up, or leave it as is and figure out how to drive it? McLeod says $400 for rst rebuild. OEM, I’ll need a flywheel or is tilton the best to go with?

Thanks

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Old 10-07-2021, 06:16 PM   #39
Black_SS10
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Originally Posted by SIM GhostrdrZ View Post
If I may jump in on this thread to get info from more experienced folks

I just picked up a zl1 vert. As far as I can tell it is original with 1 mod. It has a McLeod rxt clutch with steel flywheel. I’m not going to do any power upgrades and the rxt(ceramic) clutch is not to my liking. Too grabby or on/off out of 1st gear.

Question: go back to OEM clutch, send McLeod clutch back to get organic(RST) set up or go tilton organic set up, or leave it as is and figure out how to drive it? McLeod says $400 for rst rebuild. OEM, I’ll need a flywheel or is tilton the best to go with?

Thanks
If you don't like the Mcleod you will not like the tilton. Unless you go organic, like you said. Any clutch will feel different ceramic vs organic. The factory OEM clutch most likely being best suited for what you're looking for. Stock clutch for stock power. Even if you decide later to add some HP, the factory clutch will work.
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Old 10-07-2021, 06:31 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_SS10 View Post
If you don't like the Mcleod you will not like the tilton. Unless you go organic, like you said. Any clutch will feel different ceramic vs organic. The factory OEM clutch most likely being best suited for what you're looking for. Stock clutch for stock power. Even if you decide later to add some HP, the factory clutch will work.
I appreciate your input. I completely agree.

With McLeod willing to rebuild the setup, is there a market for the one I pull out? I wouldn’t buy a used clutch so I’m prone to just put it in my parts bin.

Thanks
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Old 10-07-2021, 08:02 PM   #41
Black_SS10
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I appreciate your input. I completely agree.

With McLeod willing to rebuild the setup, is there a market for the one I pull out? I wouldn’t buy a used clutch so I’m prone to just put it in my parts bin.

Thanks
The market for used clutches is slim, just rebuild it. I still have a used twin disk ceramic McLeod clutch I have been trying to sell.
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