Need Help with Interchiller Install

[Shodown]

Originally Posted by cc-rider

Perhaps I’m missing something. But I guess I never understood why these all contain the diverter valves. Why not send it through the HX all the time anyway.

Without a diverter valve or 3 way bypass your HX will heat up the coolant that the chiller is working to cool. It will literally work against your chiller. To simplify things you can delete the HX altogether and get the best cooling possible and not have to do any extra wiring or parts. That's what I did with my Killer and very glad I did it.

The instructions that come with the Killer Chiller kits recommend deleting the HX.

[Shodown]

Originally Posted by tartagliazl1

https://pnptechworks.com/online-stor...2orb-ports-bcc
This valve does all the work for you. No need to wire up any valve.

That's actually super cool (pardon the pun). Way easier than fumbling with more bulky valves and wiring.

[tartagliazl1]

Originally Posted by Shodown

That's actually super cool (pardon the pun). Way easier than fumbling with more bulky valves and wiring.

works really well also. just wish the temp valve was set for 80 degrees and not the 90 degrees. Must be a reason they picked the 90 degree threshold.

[cc-rider]

Originally Posted by Shodown

Without a diverter valve or 3 way bypass your HX will heat up the coolant that the chiller is working to cool. It will literally work against your chiller. To simplify things you can delete the HX altogether and get the best cooling possible and not have to do any extra wiring or parts. That's what I did with my Killer and very glad I did it.

The instructions that come with the Killer Chiller kits recommend deleting the HX.

I can understand that the HX will heat up the coolant if it is placed after the chiller brick. But I am having the coolant go through the HX first, then through the chiller brick.

If the coolant makes its way up through the engine intercooler and comes back down to the HX/chiller area still below ambient air…then I agree that the HX would just be heating it up a bit before the chiller cools it down once again. But I would think that the boost would heat up the chilled water above ambient.

Not sure. Will be an interesting experiment to see what IAT graphs look like. I still have the diverter valve that came with the kit so I can eventually put it in if needed. Or get that one recommended in this thread. Looks like a nice unit.

[Shodown]

Originally Posted by cc-rider

I can understand that the HX will heat up the coolant if it is placed after the chiller brick. But I am having the coolant go through the HX first, then through the chiller brick.

If the coolant makes its way up through the engine intercooler and comes back down to the HX/chiller area still below ambient air…then I agree that the HX would just be heating it up a bit before the chiller cools it down once again. But I would think that the boost would heat up the chilled water above ambient.

Not sure. Will be an interesting experiment to see what IAT graphs look like. I still have the diverter valve that came with the kit so I can eventually put it in if needed. Or get that one recommended in this thread. Looks like a nice unit.

It's been experimented and tried several times. All the chiller companies recommend deleting the HX or getting a diverter valve. No need to reinvent the wheel and add parts just to add parts. Just my .02. Good luck.

[cc-rider]

Well here is the final install. Gotta love Amazon and eBay these days…can find the exact parts needed for the install. Came out pretty clean. Let’s see how it goes. I will report back with results when I eventually get it up and running.

[tartagliazl1]

looks good. your tx valve line looks like its clamped at the 12 o'clock position. it needs to be at the 11or 1 o'clock position or else it won't read the right temperature. Don't forget to tacky tape it all up before putting the bumper on. needs to be insulated.

[cc-rider]

Gotcha. Thanks for the tip. Is it correct now in this pic:

[cc-rider]

Also…can you help me with the tacky tape comment? Are you referring to the copper line needing to be insulated? I heard that…and I did insulate the overall body of the line, which you can see in black there. I put foil tape along it and then covered it with the black wire loom you see there. Do both ends need to be covered too?

[tartagliazl1]

Tacky tape is just a butyl tape. It insulates the lines and is waterproof so they won’t condensate.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRA...tyl-Tape-4PDE9
Your foil won’t be enough to insulate that copper line. It will give false reading to the tx valve. Cover all if it and all the hard line that it’s clamped too.

[cc-rider]

Got it. Thanks. Do you know what temps these valves operate at? What temp does that copper need to sense before it starts to throttle back the Freon?

[tartagliazl1]

Originally Posted by cc-rider

Got it. Thanks. Do you know what temps these valves operate at? What temp does that copper need to sense before it starts to throttle back the Freon?

That i have no clue about.

[cc-rider]

So I was too curious on what the valve and copper wire does. So my OCD kicked in and went searching. Thought I’d share here in case anyone else reads this and is interested. The valve is called a thermal expansion valve. And here’s a YouTube video that explains what it does. Pretty interesting:

https://youtu.be/HqH1MSWakgo

It helps control the flow of Freon through the intercooler brick. Which we knew. But I thought that it only throttled Freon control back from wide open. And it actually both increases and decreases freon flow depending on the overall load on the intercooler brick. Keeps the pressure and superheat consistent and running optimally.