Porter Cable 7424XP Unboxing (Pictures) - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

thenaz · 03-10-2010, 02:23 PM

Hey Junkman 2008,

I love your info and read and watch most all the video's. I was just about to order the Portcable from Adamspolishes.com and one of their complete kits is named after you. They also have a bigger kit that I have a question about. Their biggest best buy kit has the Portercable with 7.5 inch backing plate and 7.5 inch pads. Which should I go for? The 5-7/8inch or the 7.5 inch? And what difference should either make?

Junkman2008 · 03-10-2010, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thenaz

Hey Junkman 2008,

I love your info and read and watch most all the video's. I was just about to order the Portcable from Adamspolishes.com and one of their complete kits is named after you. They also have a bigger kit that I have a question about. Their biggest best buy kit has the Portercable with 7.5 inch backing plate and 7.5 inch pads. Which should I go for? The 5-7/8inch or the 7.5 inch? And what difference should either make?

That's a misprint. I need to go fix that. If you look at the picture, the backing plate is already on the PC and that is the same backing plate that comes with all the kits that contain the polisher.

The kit you should buy is determined by the condition of your car, and the maintenance you plan to consistently perform. Don't buy any part of the maintenance routine that you don't plan on performing religiously. This stuff cost way to much to let go to waste. Those should be your determining factors.

thenaz · 03-10-2010, 04:05 PM

Boy do you really give good advise!

I was going to go for the "Big Kit" but what you said makes alot of sence. I also have a 2001 vette (my wifes') and I've got the Black with Inferno Orange stripe & interior 2010 TVS 2300 Camaro. I think I will get "The Junkman's Total Paint Correction Kit". I also agree with your advise on NOT USING CHEAP MICROFIBER CLOTHES from Walmart or China, they will and do alot of scratch damage. I bought some of Adams' soft clothes and the quality and softness has to be much better on any finish. The cheap microfiber clothes do seem to be OK for cleaning the glass though.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I will Endeavor to Persavere!!

Junkman2008 · 03-10-2010, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thenaz

Boy do you really give good advise!

I was going to go for the "Big Kit" but what you said makes alot of sence. I also have a 2001 vette (my wifes') and I've got the Black with Inferno Orange stripe & interior 2010 TVS 2300 Camaro. I think I will get "The Junkman's Total Paint Correction Kit". I also agree with your advise on NOT USING CHEAP MICROFIBER CLOTHES from Walmart or China, they will and do alot of scratch damage. I bought some of Adams' soft clothes and the quality and softness has to be much better on any finish. The cheap microfiber clothes do seem to be OK for cleaning the glass though.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I will Endeavor to Persavere!!

Glad I could help.

Mike2ss · 03-11-2010, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Glad I could help.

Junkman

so you are saying the mircofiber will scratch also? What else should I buy then?

Junkman2008 · 03-11-2010, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike2ss

Junkman

so you are saying the mircofiber will scratch also? What else should I buy then?

No, cheap, made in China microfiber will scratch. Quality made in Korea or the US will not.

Mike2ss · 03-11-2010, 10:05 PM

cool, thanks

Junkman2008 · 03-19-2010, 08:57 AM

Hey BuddyLoc, have you put that polisher to use yet?

Michael_Js · 03-19-2010, 10:13 AM

Hey Junkman, a question. I washed my baby yesterday, then put on a High Temp paste wax. I did the entire car at once to let the wax dry - probably my mistake right there. I tested it as I was going, and it still felt "wet" so I continued. When I was done with the car, I could NOT get that stuff off with a clean dry towel!

I used my PC with a 6" polishing pad and had to use some pressure. I did not like doing that but didn't know any other way. I followed it up with a detail spray to get all the dust off.

Was the fact I waited too long my issue?? i don't remember the brand of the wax - had a shark on it I think...

I use Zaino on my car but wanted to try this wax for the sun protection.

Thanks for helping with my stupidity...

Junkman2008 · 03-19-2010, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

Hey Junkman, a question. I washed my baby yesterday, then put on a High Temp paste wax. I did the entire car at once to let the wax dry - probably my mistake right there. I tested it as I was going, and it still felt "wet" so I continued. When I was done with the car, I could NOT get that stuff off with a clean dry towel!

I used my PC with a 6" polishing pad and had to use some pressure. I did not like doing that but didn't know any other way. I followed it up with a detail spray to get all the dust off.

Was the fact I waited too long my issue?? i don't remember the brand of the wax - had a shark on it I think...

I use Zaino on my car but wanted to try this wax for the sun protection.

Thanks for helping with my stupidity...

Wow. There is no possible way that I could answer that question without knowing what you used. Some products have specific application procedures that must be followed. I would have to know what those were before I could answer. Anything I say at this point would be a total SWAG.

Michael_Js · 03-19-2010, 11:08 AM

OK, thanks. I'll check when I get home...Hopefully what I did to get it off didn't ruin the finish. She looked great when she was done, but it was WAY more work than I expected :( And, it's not the work that bothered me, it's the fact that it would rub off by hand, even with hard pressure...

EDIT:
Ok, found it

http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-1000p-wax.html
Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax

That's what I used. It says let dry for 15 minutes ;( Ok, my bad. Again, I hope I didn't hurt the finish when taking it off.

On another note, I have a brand newly painted hood. I was told to wait at least a month before waxing it - and a week before washing.

After a month, should I start fresh on the hood and clay bar, wash, wax, etc...?

Thanks!

Junkman2008 · 03-19-2010, 11:52 AM

You are telling me by that last question that you are unaware of why you do ant part of the paint restoration process. Let me explain why I think that.

You know that your car needs gas in order to run. When the needle is sitting on F, you know that the tank is full. Every time that you drive the car, do you go directly to the gas station to fill it up if the needle barely moves off the F? No, because you realize that you still have plenty gas remaining in the tank. You know this because you just filled it up and the gauge verifies that. You understand the necessity for gas.

Detailing is exactly the same, only your eyes and your fingertips are the gauge. You use the baggie test to determine the necessity to clay. If you surface passes the baggie test, why would you clay? You wouldn't because it is NOT necessary.

The next step is the swirl removing by polishing. If you look at the hood and there are no swirl, why would you polish it? You wouldn't because the hood does not meet the requirement for polishing.

Finally there is the wax. This is something that you would do, however, do NOT use a sealant for 60 days. Although they say you can wax the car after 30 days, they are not being specific enough. Some waxes can be used but NOT all, especially sealants. If the paint hasn't fully cured, a sealant will stop the curing process and eventually, your paint will start looking like the skin on a lizard. Not a pretty picture.

Never be quick to mess with a freshly painted car. This is the mistake most people make. Leave it alone as long as possible and touch it as least as possible. In the long run, you'll do the paint way more good than you would by fooling with it.

Michael_Js · 03-19-2010, 11:59 AM

Ok, good input, thanks! So, a carnuba wax is not a sealant, correct? I think most of the Zanio I have are sealants...I'll do the baggie test to determine about the clay bar or not

Any input on the issue with the Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax I puit on and how I got the stuff off? :(

Thanks!

Junkman2008 · 03-19-2010, 12:20 PM

You already said it. Fifteen minute drying time. If you did it in direct sunlight, that probably sped up the drying time. No mystery there. I don't think you did any damage, just a lot more work than necessary.

You need to check the contents on whatever you decide to use but I don't know if there are any carnuba sealants.

03-11-2010, 10:05 PM	#35
Mike2ss Airborne Pathfinder Drives: Camaro ZL575 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: San Benito, TX Posts: 1,139	cool, thanks __________________ 2010 Camaro Indy 500 Pace car, LS3-ZL575 Other cars are- 95 BMW 325 sedan- AA exhaust, AA CAI, AA Strut bar, AA chip, M3 rotors and calipers, racing clutch, oversized injectors, upgraded M3 interior- Audi A4 SLine, with black out optics

03-19-2010, 08:57 AM	#36
Junkman2008 "Detailing Devil Dog" Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 2,730	Hey BuddyLoc, have you put that polisher to use yet? __________________ "Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

03-19-2010, 10:13 AM	#37
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	Hey Junkman, a question. I washed my baby yesterday, then put on a High Temp paste wax. I did the entire car at once to let the wax dry - probably my mistake right there. I tested it as I was going, and it still felt "wet" so I continued. When I was done with the car, I could NOT get that stuff off with a clean dry towel! I used my PC with a 6" polishing pad and had to use some pressure. I did not like doing that but didn't know any other way. I followed it up with a detail spray to get all the dust off. Was the fact I waited too long my issue?? i don't remember the brand of the wax - had a shark on it I think... I use Zaino on my car but wanted to try this wax for the sun protection. Thanks for helping with my stupidity... __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

03-19-2010, 11:08 AM	#39
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	OK, thanks. I'll check when I get home...Hopefully what I did to get it off didn't ruin the finish. She looked great when she was done, but it was WAY more work than I expected :( And, it's not the work that bothered me, it's the fact that it would rub off by hand, even with hard pressure... EDIT: Ok, found it http://www.autogeek.net/finish-kare-1000p-wax.html Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax That's what I used. It says let dry for 15 minutes ;( Ok, my bad. Again, I hope I didn't hurt the finish when taking it off. On another note, I have a brand newly painted hood. I was told to wait at least a month before waxing it - and a week before washing. After a month, should I start fresh on the hood and clay bar, wash, wax, etc...? Thanks! __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; *******; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers; Last edited by Michael_Js; 03-19-2010 at 11:19 AM.*

03-19-2010, 11:52 AM	#40
Junkman2008 "Detailing Devil Dog" Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 2,730	You are telling me by that last question that you are unaware of why you do ant part of the paint restoration process. Let me explain why I think that. You know that your car needs gas in order to run. When the needle is sitting on F, you know that the tank is full. Every time that you drive the car, do you go directly to the gas station to fill it up if the needle barely moves off the F? No, because you realize that you still have plenty gas remaining in the tank. You know this because you just filled it up and the gauge verifies that. You understand the necessity for gas. Detailing is exactly the same, only your eyes and your fingertips are the gauge. You use the baggie test to determine the necessity to clay. If you surface passes the baggie test, why would you clay? You wouldn't because it is NOT necessary. The next step is the swirl removing by polishing. If you look at the hood and there are no swirl, why would you polish it? You wouldn't because the hood does not meet the requirement for polishing. Finally there is the wax. This is something that you would do, however, do NOT use a sealant for 60 days. Although they say you can wax the car after 30 days, they are not being specific enough. Some waxes can be used but NOT all, especially sealants. If the paint hasn't fully cured, a sealant will stop the curing process and eventually, your paint will start looking like the skin on a lizard. Not a pretty picture. Never be quick to mess with a freshly painted car. This is the mistake most people make. Leave it alone as long as possible and touch it as least as possible. In the long run, you'll do the paint way more good than you would by fooling with it. __________________ "Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

03-10-2010, 02:23 PM	#29
thenaz Thenaz Drives: 2010 2SS/RS BLK GFX IOI/STRIPE TVS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Arkansas Posts: 64 View My Garage	Hey Junkman 2008, I love your info and read and watch most all the video's. I was just about to order the Portcable from Adamspolishes.com and one of their complete kits is named after you. They also have a bigger kit that I have a question about. Their biggest best buy kit has the Portercable with 7.5 inch backing plate and 7.5 inch pads. Which should I go for? The 5-7/8inch or the 7.5 inch? And what difference should either make?

03-10-2010, 04:05 PM	#31
thenaz Thenaz Drives: 2010 2SS/RS BLK GFX IOI/STRIPE TVS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Arkansas Posts: 64 View My Garage	Boy do you really give good advise! I was going to go for the "Big Kit" but what you said makes alot of sence. I also have a 2001 vette (my wifes') and I've got the Black with Inferno Orange stripe & interior 2010 TVS 2300 Camaro. I think I will get "The Junkman's Total Paint Correction Kit". I also agree with your advise on NOT USING CHEAP MICROFIBER CLOTHES from Walmart or China, they will and do alot of scratch damage. I bought some of Adams' soft clothes and the quality and softness has to be much better on any finish. The cheap microfiber clothes do seem to be OK for cleaning the glass though. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I will Endeavor to Persavere!!

03-19-2010, 11:59 AM	#41
Michael_Js SoCal C5 Family Member Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS - Black w/IOM; 6M Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: San Diego, CA, USA Posts: 5,298 View My Garage	Ok, good input, thanks! So, a carnuba wax is not a sealant, correct? I think most of the Zanio I have are sealants...I'll do the baggie test to determine about the clay bar or not Any input on the issue with the Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax I puit on and how I got the stuff off? :( Thanks! __________________ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2010 Black 2SS/RS; 6M; IOM, GFX, sunroof; ADM Race CAI; Zoomers CB; Viper Alarm; Pdaft F&R sways, Adj Endlinks, Rtrailing arms, Camber kit, strut brace, Front Trailing Arm Bushing; SLP Skip-Shift Elim; Tinted lights/windows; Hurst Short-throw; LoJack; Door & Dash ABL Mods; ********; JBA Shorty headers; AACStyle LEDs; Stillen DS rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads; Havoc Blk Chrome wheels: 20x9s; Lingenfelter Blk Al Pedals; RevXtreme Catch Can; Goodridge SS lines; Ported TB; RK Sport hood; Hotchkis chassis brace; KW V3 coilovers;

03-19-2010, 12:20 PM	#42
Junkman2008 "Detailing Devil Dog" Drives: 2001 Corvette Coupe Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 2,730	You already said it. Fifteen minute drying time. If you did it in direct sunlight, that probably sped up the drying time. No mystery there. I don't think you did any damage, just a lot more work than necessary. You need to check the contents on whatever you decide to use but I don't know if there are any carnuba sealants. __________________ "Marines - Making the other guy die for his country for over 200 years."

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