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Old 03-11-2012, 12:21 PM   #491
Moreno1
 
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Success! Pulled it out this morning before heading out to church. You can tell from my smile....... it's a great feeling to persist and succeed!



Kyle, thanks for the tip on wiggling the corner out first, once I got that section lose, I gained hope it was coming out. Still a huge PITA but at least I had hope now.

The bracket for the hood shock was the first obstacle. Than clearing the ABS bracket was the next PITA. I'm having a really tough time mentally rapping my thought around the idea of putting the shield back with the obstacles in the way. I wasn't planing on relocating the ABS but now that I'm here........



Now I just need Kyle or EZSPEED to give me some tips on how I would mount the ABS in this area and I think I'll go for it.

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Old 03-11-2012, 03:06 PM   #492
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Just thinking out loud but........I think there's a possibility the fuse box could get relocated to the wheel well. All thoughts welcomed. I did consider rain but I don't see a difference between the box being under the hood or inside the wheel well, it still covered.

I will be removing the passenger wheel well to see if it's an option. I have to head on out, so I can't do it just now but I figure I through it out and see what you guys think.
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:18 PM   #493
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Step 1. 2012 GM Heater hoses installed! Stay tuned - much more to come
For anyone doing the heater hose mod, I strongly recommend 2 pairs of long needle nose (1 bent) - $20 for both at Lowes. This makes getting the hose clamps off the heater core end MUCH easier
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:30 PM   #494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno View Post
Just thinking out loud but........I think there's a possibility the fuse box could get relocated to the wheel well. All thoughts welcomed. I did consider rain but I don't see a difference between the box being under the hood or inside the wheel well, it still covered.

I will be removing the passenger wheel well to see if it's an option. I have to head on out, so I can't do it just now but I figure I through it out and see what you guys think.
Yeah, all those brackets were already out of my way lol, that makes it a lot easier. There is no way you're getting the fuse box into the wheel well area, unless you do away with the coolant resevoir, then there is a chance it may fit somewhere down in there but would be a bear if you need to access or diagnose anything in it. Now you should be able to fit the ABS module in the fender well area over close to the door jam there is open space, but you will have to make up bracketry. Doing the ABS in this area may make it easier to route the lines with the engine in the car.
Getting the ABS into the filter box area is very tight, you will need to pull that box in and out many times while fitting and mocking things up. I cut the factory mount apart and re-used the isolator mount tabs, bolted that down in the bottom of the box. Making the lines is the most difficult part and getting them to fit in the box, without interfering with the filter, and having room for the pcm and being able to get to them to tighten. You may have enough room to do it if you remove the passenger side head. In all honesty it would probably be easier in your situation to run the lines through the bottom of the filter box area and get the module somewhere in the wheel well.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:38 PM   #495
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Kyle, putting the ABS in the air box sounds like a bear! I like the idea of going in the wheel well. I'll get a better ideas when I remove the wheel well. Initially I was going to re-relocate the coils from the frame rails into the wheel wells. I have found myself redoing everything at least twice, LOL. Now I'm thinking fuse box and your suggestion of the ABS. Starting to get crowed in that area, LOL. I guess I'm going have to pick my battles and decided whats most feasible. Either way, I am going to remove the fuse box bracket like you showed me.

Thanks again Kyle for all the help . I appreciate it! Wish you were closer.

Last edited by Moreno1; 03-11-2012 at 06:51 PM.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:40 PM   #496
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Originally Posted by 2010 Indy Pace View Post
Step 1. 2012 GM Heater hoses installed! Stay tuned - much more to come
For anyone doing the heater hose mod, I strongly recommend 2 pairs of long needle nose (1 bent) - $20 for both at Lowes. This makes getting the hose clamps off the heater core end MUCH easier
Indy, looking good, keep it up .

LOL, Those are the same set of pliers I bought when I did my heater hose also.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:04 PM   #497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno View Post
Just thinking out loud but........I think there's a possibility the fuse box could get relocated to the wheel well. All thoughts welcomed. I did consider rain but I don't see a difference between the box being under the hood or inside the wheel well, it still covered.

I will be removing the passenger wheel well to see if it's an option. I have to head on out, so I can't do it just now but I figure I through it out and see what you guys think.
Dude! You are insane! LOL. I thought that I had a difficult time figuring out where to quit. I was young once, and fell into that trap when I was your age. I got way in over my head on a project. However, you have the internet, and all of these wonderful people to help you out.

I am trying to finish with under-hood cleanup, and you are just getting started! I'll continue to make a list of things to do next winter. However, Spring is here, and I've gotta get this thing on the road. I'm hoping to do so in 2 weeks. I keep asking myself if I can do whatever I am thinking about later.

I would love to replace the radiator (not difficult to do later), and would love to do the strut towers like you, but I decided that is too much work. Relocating the ABS would be cool, so I'll be watching closely and taking notes.

I'm still waiting on my engine accessories (water pump, brackets, alternator). Still waiting on bolts for them to arrive, waiting on more sleeving, brake reservoir cover, billet cap covers, and dipstick handle. When you find a complete dipstick replacement, let me know. For now, I'll just replace the handle.

I sanded down my fuse box cover and painted it a satin black. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow when I can take a picture in the daylight. I have replaced every bit of corrugated tubing that is in sight. That alone is a lot of work! I spent a lot of time trying to figure out a better spot for the purge solenoid. Because I have a large additional bracket for the whipple that will really hide the solenoid, I think that I'll stick with the original location. That angle seems to be the cleanest to route the lines.

Also while waiting for the parts, I installed the new RPI splitter. The front end is already off the car, so it made installing the splitter a breeze. I will be receiving the new ZL1 rocker panels this week and then need to get them painted. Should also be getting the JDP RGB Halo LEDs this week, and I'll get those installed. Then on to get the clear bra installed, and a custom roll bar made. Whew! When is CF3? JK.

Oh yeah, and I am in the process of getting a custom supercharger intercooler reservoir made.

I still need to call ARP about the 140mm and 95mm bolts for the alternator.

Keep up the good work. I love checking this thread at least once a day.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:52 PM   #498
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572HP, you've been busy!

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Originally Posted by 572HP View Post
Dude! You are insane! LOL. I thought that I had a difficult time figuring out where to quit. I was young once, and fell into that trap when I was your age. I got way in over my head on a project. However, you have the internet, and all of these wonderful people to help you out.

You're absolutely right, if it weren't for the people here, I'd be lost, LOL.

I am trying to finish with under-hood cleanup, and you are just getting started! I'll continue to make a list of things to do next winter. However, Spring is here, and I've gotta get this thing on the road. I'm hoping to do so in 2 weeks. I keep asking myself if I can do whatever I am thinking about later.

I here you, it stinks I'm not driving! But I'm still enjoy the process almost as much.

I would love to replace the radiator (not difficult to do later), and would love to do the strut towers like you, but I decided that is too much work. Relocating the ABS would be cool, so I'll be watching closely and taking notes.

I'm a little intimidated to say the least. I wish there was a DIY.

I'm still waiting on my engine accessories (water pump, brackets, alternator). Still waiting on bolts for them to arrive, waiting on more sleeving, brake reservoir cover, billet cap covers, and dipstick handle. When you find a complete dipstick replacement, let me know. For now, I'll just replace the handle.

As soon as I do the LT, I'll be able to figure the deal with the dip stick. Lobar needs a couple of measurements.

I sanded down my fuse box cover and painted it a satin black. I'll try to post a pic tomorrow when I can take a picture in the daylight. I have replaced every bit of corrugated tubing that is in sight. That alone is a lot of work! I spent a lot of time trying to figure out a better spot for the purge solenoid. Because I have a large additional bracket for the whipple that will really hide the solenoid, I think that I'll stick with the original location. That angle seems to be the cleanest to route the lines.

I was remove all the sleeving I originally did....... all the while thinking to myself, "I can't believe I'm undoing all that work I did.


Also while waiting for the parts, I installed the new RPI splitter. The front end is already off the car, so it made installing the splitter a breeze. I will be receiving the new ZL1 rocker panels this week and then need to get them painted. Should also be getting the JDP RGB Halo LEDs this week, and I'll get those installed. Then on to get the clear bra installed, and a custom roll bar made. Whew! When is CF3? JK.

Man, thats going to look nice.

Oh yeah, and I am in the process of getting a custom supercharger intercooler reservoir made.

Can't wait to see it.

I still need to call ARP about the 140mm and 95mm bolts for the alternator.

Forgot to tell you, they don't have the 140. They do have the the others. I ended ordering every freaking bolt for the engine bay from them. Even the ones you wont see, LOL.

Keep up the good work. I love checking this thread at least once a day.
Thanks for the props. Doesn't look like I'll be finish by the time your out here. Hopefully by SEMA
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:16 PM   #499
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno View Post
Just thinking out loud but........I think there's a possibility the fuse box could get relocated to the wheel well. All thoughts welcomed. I did consider rain but I don't see a difference between the box being under the hood or inside the wheel well, it still covered.

I will be removing the passenger wheel well to see if it's an option. I have to head on out, so I can't do it just now but I figure I through it out and see what you guys think.
I believe that ADM Performance had a thread on here where they moved the fuse box. This is all I could find with a quick search
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=137
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#1 - 1967 RS Butternut Yellow w/ Black Bumblebee Stripe-RPO D91 / Parchment-Black - sold
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:29 PM   #500
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I need that same space for a big single snail..

I was concerned about the Brake lines having to be a certain "length" anyone can confirm this isn't true?

I plan to move the fuse box to the trunk too like the ADM guys did on the twin turbo car.

BTW thanks for the can pic!
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:22 PM   #501
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I removed my stock overflow tank and put a aftermarket expansion type tank above the heater core fittings at the water pump. I plan to move my fuse box to the stock overflow location.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:44 PM   #502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010 Indy Pace View Post
Step 1. 2012 GM Heater hoses installed! Stay tuned - much more to come
For anyone doing the heater hose mod, I strongly recommend 2 pairs of long needle nose (1 bent) - $20 for both at Lowes. This makes getting the hose clamps off the heater core end MUCH easier
Just put mine on too. Wish I had seen these long pliers before. I have long arms, but damn... My old back is really aching now from all the stooping and streching back to the firewall - LOL !!!
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My previous Camaros:
#4 - 1994 Z/28 6M Black over Arctic White / Graphite-Red Inserts - traded
#3 - 1981 Z/28 Bright Blue Metallic / Black - sold
#2 - 1970.5 RS Mulsanne Blue / Blue - endo crashed it and parted it out
#1 - 1967 RS Butternut Yellow w/ Black Bumblebee Stripe-RPO D91 / Parchment-Black - sold
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:31 AM   #503
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Originally Posted by LC View Post
I need that same space for a big single snail..

I was concerned about the Brake lines having to be a certain "length" anyone can confirm this isn't true?

I plan to move the fuse box to the trunk too like the ADM guys did on the twin turbo car.

BTW thanks for the can pic!
I would love to move it to the trunk but since nobody has done a DIY, I'm looking at other options that wouldn't require lengthening the harness. This is already more than I was planning on doing. Just gotten out of hand, LOL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackonblacksls View Post
I removed my stock overflow tank and put a aftermarket expansion type tank above the heater core fittings at the water pump. I plan to move my fuse box to the stock overflow location.
I looked at your pictures on the first page of this thread. I couldn't see the over flow tank. Can you post a picture of the tank you used?

Thanks,

Nathan
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:47 AM   #504
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You could ask ADM how they did it. They might be able to give you an idea
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