The birth of Orange Krate...

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by blade_ss

Awesome write-up Jim. I cant wait to hear your thoughts on Orange Krate's newest mod.

I got a chance to take Orange Krate out for a bit today and run him through the gears. What a difference. It didn't change the overall quality (notchiness) of the transmission feel which has been concerning since day one. But it was nice not fighting the lockout from the CAGS command.

I think my shifting was smoother and more at ease because of my expectation that the lockout was going to be null and void! I did a first to second shift and chirped the tires and the power and shift was spot on perfect even if I say so myself...not too bad for an old fart. I recommend this product for sure.

[Orange Krate]

A group of us from the Central Coast Camaro Club (4C) attended the Supercar Sunday car meet at the Promenade Mall in Woodland Hills today. The place was packed. One heck of a turnout. Here is a link with some photos I took and posted at the 4C thread and on Facebook.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=100



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[Orange Krate]

I am sure many of you are too young or weren't born yet when the Monkees made their debut in the mid sixties. I was a whopping 10 years old but remember them like it was yesterday. They have made several nostalgic comebacks over the years and were yet again starting to rise in popularity as they hit their 45th anniversary. The Mustang, Camaro and Monkees all came out at about the same time! All were extreme successes considering their was only modest hope by their financiers at the time.

As a kid I was always into the Beach Boys, the Monkees, Creedence Clearwater Revival and the Eagles. They were the bands that I had in my first 8 track player that was stuffed under the dash of a '72 Ford F-100.

This week we lost one of the legends from the Monkees, Davy Jones (1945-2012) age 66. He was one of the most cherished singers by the girls of that time because he was short, cute and had an English accent. That seemed to be the secret to winning the girl groupies hearts. It didn't hurt that he could really sing and had a TV show with the rest of the band. Although the Monkees TV show was only on for 2 seasons it left an indelible mark on many kids minds and the Monkee's music is standard fare for many oldies and goodies stations such as LA's KEARTH 101.

But what does this have to do with Camaros and cars? One only need mention the MONKEE MOBILE!!! I had a chance to see this car in a static display parked a number of years ago. When I see pictures of it today I can still picture in my mind's eye the TV series with the Monkees riding in their car and doing zany antics on the show. I always wanted to ride in that car or better yet drive it! Me and about 2 zillion other kids at the time.

Cheers to the Monkees, the Monkee Mobile, and may Davy Jones rest in peace. Thanks for the good times and memories.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...=nU615FaODCg#!

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[Orange Krate]

Rx Catch Can has been ordered. It will be IOM flavor. I can't wait for it to arrive and install it. I am looking forward to writing another DIY for the Orange Krate journal! I am going to do the clutch reservoir relocate too. I believe these to be two required after-market installs that will actually improve the life of the car. One I haven't seen for Camaros, is a coolant system filter to keep the radiator and heater core spotless. We use to have those on all of our commercial vehicles and they worked great.

[Macfolk]

Thanks! I just installed mine today using your excellent instructions. Much appreciated!



Jason

Originally Posted by Orange Krate

Today I installed my new AAC LED P13 Daytime Running Lights (DRL). I am not a mechanic but have dabbled on quite a few cars over the years. If I can do this anyone can. Before I post the photos and my version of how I installed the LEDs... I must say the lights are everything I expected and more. The effect is good and I do enjoy night driving more now that there is even more front proximity light. This is due to the harness (jumper) install supplied by manufacturer.

A comment about the packaged goods. All came very well wrapped and protected in a large cardboard box. However, whoever did the packing for the harness left out two of the four needed T-Taps. Not worth calling AAC and waiting for a shipment. I went down to the local O'Reilly's Automotive Store and picked up a package of T-Taps which are good to have in your toolbox anyway!

To make it easier I decided to combine tasks. I needed to detail my wheel wells and front brake calipers and wheels so I put the car up on a jack stand and did each side one at a time.

For you first timers... always use a jack stand if you use a jack to lift your car to work on or under. The car should be on dry, level, hard ground, asphalt or concrete...not lawn! The car should be firmly on the jack stand and not weighted on the jack. Block the wheels if there is any chance of movement or rolling.

After removing my front drivers wheel I put the wheel cleaner on and let it soak while I removed the inner wheel well of the drivers side with the #15 Torx bit. There are three (3) torx screws holding it in place towards the front of the wheel well opening. It is not necessary to remove the whole wheel well liner. Be careful not to bend it too hard but you can gently fold it back behind the front of the suspension components to give yourself room to visualize the DRL and sidemarker wiring (which I will address later).

MAKE SURE TO FOLLOW AAC INSTRUCTIONS! Their xerox copy was hard to see so I looked at their online color instructions and video, although their video doesn't show the harness (jumper) connection.

DRIVERS SIDE - Identify the sidemarker positive (+) wire that is purple. Attach a T-Tap to that wire. I used a crimping tool to gently squeeze the T-Tap together. Be careful not to pull on the side marker wire as it may be possible to dislodge the sidemarker lamp from its socket. I did this on the passenger side and I had to invoke my wife's little hands to put it back in place! (Thank you Erica!) Then put a T-Tap on the blue positive (+) wire of the DRL. Finish up by connecting the harness (jumper) between the two T-Taps. I used black electricians tape to gently and securely wrap the T-Taps and the harness to the existing plastic wire shroud that runs to the DRL. Note... MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT TOO FAR APART BETWEEN T-TAPS!

Now it is time to go scrub the wheel and rinse it off! Wipe down water spots and let finish drying while you test and button everything back up!

Turn on your headlights and make sure the new LED powers up before you replace it in the socket and button everything up. Nothing worse then having to remove the inner wheel well a second time because you didn't check! My passenger side caused a bit more angst because I had a loose T-Tap connection. Re-crimping fixed that. If you have a good connection and the light works in the DRL mode and Headlight On mode you are good to go. Finish inserting the LED into the DRL lens assembly. Replace the wheel well liner and tighten the three (3) #15 torx screws.

Replace tire/wheel and torque to specifications with a torque wrench. (I avoid impact guns on chrome lugs.)

PASSENGER SIDE: Repeat process of wheel removal. And three (3) #15 Torx screws from inner wheel well plastic liner. The passenger sidemarker light has a brown positive (+) wire. Install a T-Tap on it and then a T-Tap on the Blue positive (+) wire on the DRL. Connect the harness between the two. It should look identical to the drivers side configuration. Check for power to the LED, use electrical tape to secure the T-Taps and harness to the plastic DRL housing. Let the light burn to make sure there is no infantile failure.

Now go scrub and rinse your second wheel. Wipe it down and let it finish drying.

Turn off the headlights and finish plugging in the LED to the DRL lens assembly. Secure the inner wheel well liner and tighten the three (3) #15 torx screws.

Reinstall front passenger wheel and safely lower down to ground and make sure wheel is torqued to specifications.

Now take a couple of minutes to bask in a successful modification to your car and snap a few photos for posterity and Camaro5.com and of course enjoy the beverage of choice! You earned it!

Hope this helped and I want to thank AAC again for a great little mod that is not only an improved safety feature but a rather inexpensive eye catcher!

ORANGE KRATE LOVES HIS NEW EYES! Motor on!

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by Macfolk

Thanks! I just installed mine today using your excellent instructions. Much appreciated!



Jason

Jason you are very welcome. I hope they help any Camaro5 member that is considering the mod. This website has helped me immensely with reading certain DIY's and learning about this fantastic automobile. Have fun and enjoy your hot ride! Orange Krate loves this mod!
Jim

[Orange Krate]

One word sums up my opinion of this video: WOW! Awesome doesn't begin
to describe this feat! Read the article and notice Camaro is right in there with a G8 as chase cars for the U2. Ultimate ride! This makes me so proud to own a Camaro and am proud of the troops and vets who have gone the distance to maintain our freedoms...like owning and driving a Camaro freely!


www.wimp.com/breathtakingfootage/





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[Orange Krate]

The Rx Catchcan arrived as advertised! Installation time: ~ 1 hour including pick up of hose clamps.

The package was delivered by Fedex this morning. I had just looked at the PC and noticed it was DELIVERED! Amazing. Literally saw it change status as the Fedex Truck was whisking off. Gotta love tracking stuff on Fedex and UPS! I also love it when you buy something from a vendor and you can see how truthful they are about delivery and shipment. Two thumbs up to Tracy!

Let me say a couple of things up front if you are not mechanically inclined... do not be afraid. This is a fairly simple mod but you must be patient and I highly recommend looking closely at my photos because the instructions that come with the package are at best mediocre because it ISN'T a rocket science project.

FIG.1: I opened the box, laid out the parts and started snapping photos. I read the instructions, then went to my PC to look at the link provided. PFFFFTTT!!! DEAD URL... "404" Link and photos not found. No worries. I will study the photos.

Whoops. Now I know why I am doing a DIY... So the next person can see better details. I am highlighting areas that are what I feel are key points in avoiding vacuum leaks, engine codes, busted hands, paint etc.

Disclaimer: I AM NOT A TRAINED or EVEN SHADE TREE MECHANIC! I am a garage dabbler and Camaro enthusiast. Following my instructions is no guarantee of project success...now lets dig in.

INSPECT THE PRODUCT FOR DEFECTS AND MATERIALS BEFORE YOU INSTALL.

FIG 2: Make sure the drain valve (petcocck) is closed tight. This is a sure vacuum leak if it is not closed tight. It will also drain oil out the clear plastic drain tube to its end point (your engine compartment, cross member and beyond).

FIG 3: Check especially around the plastic fittings on the top of the can. You can see the valves are actually opposite of one another here and I spun the valves so they are facing in same direction. One was slightly loose and that fixed any leaks. All good to go. The blue circled areas are the locations of potential leaks especially if you do not use hose clamps! But why wouldn't you? Because they don't come with the product! I went and bought a box of four 3/8"-7/8" stainless hose clamps at my local O'Reilly's. A whopping $3.00.

FIG 5: TOOLS-There are some real high tech tools as you can see. The only oddball is the PVC tube cutter I use for cutting rubber hose. This bad boy will cut your fingers off. Cuts rubber hose like butter.

11mm and 15mm socket with ratchet drive
3/8 drive breaker bar (didn't know how tight the 15mm bolt would be...surprisingly it was loose!!)
1/4" nutdriver for hose clamps
Long straight screwdriver for reaching in to release "appendix".

NOTE TO SELF ---> CHECK OTHER BOLTS!?!?

Pop the hood and place fender covers or lay some nice big towels over the fenders and grill fascia area. I use old bath towels. These have saved me many times. Remove the engine cover as you will need to access deep into the front top area of the engine (on LS3) to get at the vacuum lines.

FIG 6: Locate where the Rx Catchcan is going to be located and identify the lower 15mm bolt on the belt tensioner. This is where the bracket will be bolted. I was pleasantly surprised that the tensioner did not move when I loosened the bolt and backed it out. I put the bracket in place as shown put the bolt back in and tightened it.

FIG 7: Reference photo with engine cover off so you can see the area you are working in...this is first time the cover was off for Orange Krate!

FIG 8: Shows the Rx Catchcan installed using the 11mm bolts ("MN6") and lock washers included in the package. Easy part done.

Now lets operate doctor! Time to remove that pesky appendix. This was the most challenging part of the DIY project. First you have to identify it in all the spaghetti under that pretty engine cover. It is in a "U" shape for a reason. It connects the engine valley to the intake. As they say in the instructions, It IS IMPORTANT to understand the concept so you know what you are looking for. But you must also recognize what it is you are looking for so singularly the most important photo is the one on the front page of the curved mini flex hose against a "pink" block (engine valley?).

FIG 9: Photo of the vacuum line to be removed "Appendix". Be careful not to break the tube ends in case you want to replace it at a later date. I used a long thin screwdriver to release the clamp mechanism. It is do-able. I can see how a vacuum leak could occur on these things.

You can see the appendix is now removed laying on the patient's front fender. His vitals are already starting to improve! So is the surgeons!

Next take the provided rubber hose and feed it into the two exposed vacuum tubes. I connected both of them at the same time, created equal distance to the can and cut the hose accordingly. I ran the hose clamps up to the ends and gently tightened them with the nutdriver, hand tight! The rubber hose SHOULD NOT squeeze through the webbing on the clamps! That means you overtightened the clamp.

FIG 10: You can see how the clamps attached so you can reach the heads from a good vantage point above. I have also marked the inlet and outlet accordingly. Look at the instructions and you will see a reference to the same routing. The red circles are areas that have a potential for vacuum leaks if not clamped correctly.

FIG 11: Shows the hoses routed to the Rx Catchcan. Again, it is best to clamp these vacuum lines if you want to prevent a leak. The center valve is the inlet valve coming from the lower fitting on the engine, and the outer valve returns to the intake or upper inlet on the engine intake.

The last two photos are the pretty part with the surgery done and the patient in recovery and ready to rock and roll again. A subsequent drive of Orange Krate revealed no OIL smell or engine codes. The little Rx Catchcan was making a familiar noise internally as the engine was running. This is normal as stated in the instructions.

Orange Krate is happy with the install and I hope all you Camaro5 readers who might need help on this DIY project a help to you.

[SC2150]

Awesome!!!! Added to the instructions we send with the cans now.

[blade_ss]

Great write up Jim.

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by blade_ss

Great write up Jim.

Thanks Marcus! It was a fun project. I can't wait for yours to arrive! I am so excited for you.

[Orange Krate]

R.I.P. GRUMP!

We learned this morning that Grumpy Jenkins the father of Chevy Prostock racing and naturally aspirated engine building has passed away. He was 81.

I can't tell you the number of times I watched the Grump run down the quarter mile at Orange County, Irwindale and Pomona raceways. He broke ground in many areas of drag racing and engine building. We are saddened he is gone but so glad he leaves behind the legacy he built. What a legend.

Below is a photo of his Pro Stock (Gen 1) Camaro coming off the line hard.

http://www.nhra.com/story/story.aspx...ookieSupport=1

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[Orange Krate]

Today a few of us gents from the Central Coast Camaro Club went to breakfast in Ventura on Main Street. It was a fun little breakfast run and good chatting time. Afterwards I took a side trip on my way back home. I took Orange Krate to my old high school and took a cell phone photo of Orange Krate in front of the school sign. All the kids were getting out for lunch and suddenly Orange Krate was the center of attraction as both girls and guys wanted to check him out. It was like the old days with my Gen 1 Camaro driving into the high school parking lot. For the record... Newbury Park High School! Go PANTHERS! Class of 1974!

[JoeP@TeamBeckyD]

Go Panthers!!!!