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#43 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: GM Vehicles Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,327
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The document you found is actually an old version. It's been updated since then. Hopefully with the information you posted partymn everyone can get this resolved.
Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service |
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#44 |
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Read this long term review, the first paragraph is very telling. Its about the rattle and the bad 1-2 up shift that we are experiencing. The rest of the article I disregarded because I dont have a problem with the rest of the car.
http://www.insideline.com/chevrolet/...camaro-ss.html
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2014 1SS 1LE, bone stock for now.
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#45 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 Red Hot LS3 Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,266
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Mine is a 2014 and it does the same thing.
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#46 |
![]() Drives: '12 Camaro LS V6 6MT, '09 CX9 GT Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: GTA
Posts: 269
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^ Agreed. Mine is 2012 and it does the same thing. Not just for the 2010/2011 as the TSB says.
I personally took my new car to the dealership more than once and they always told me that the abnormal clunk is "absolutely normal". I eventually gave up. It was frustrating since I have driven enough manual cars in my life and this is the first that makes this nasty rattle/clunk noise. I love the car, but unfortunately, this loud rattle/clunk is so annoying that I would re-think another Camaro. I just cannot accept anyone and dealer telling me that this loud rattle is normal and okay. If its due to excess slack in the drivetrain, the "excess" slack should not have been there. Reading this thread and others, makes me realize that some people have paid money and fixed the issue by reducing the slack, which means the dealers should be able to do this for our warrantied cars as well. Last edited by Vikas2k; 07-05-2017 at 01:04 PM. |
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#47 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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Quote:
#1 Start in 2nd. Think of 1st as Low and only necessary when you have a high load. #2 Run it up to speed in 1st and shift to 5th.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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#48 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 2SS/RS, 1968 SS Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southeast, PA
Posts: 2,117
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Wow this was an old thread that was bumped.
If you let off the gas pedal fully, then push the clutch in right away (like you would do for most cable driven throttle bodies), you will get the clunk in low gear. The same way that you feather the gas while letting off the clutch to move the car forward, you should do that while letting off the gas and pressing the clutch in. I've found the second I do that, there is no more huge clunk in low gears.
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LS3 Crate Engine Swap | CSP Custom Cam 232/240 .615/.615 113 +3 | Stainless Power LT Headers | Z28 Intake | Borla S-Type Exhaust | FTI Triple-Disc Billet 3200 Stall
2012 Camaro 2SS/RS | 1968 Camaro SS | 2020 Cadillac CT5 Premium Luxury | 2021 Spark LS |
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#49 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,173
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Mine is making a scraping type noise until you push the clutch in. I noticed it the other day at the VA clinic they have high curbs, pretty much just a first second thing once I'm in third I'm moving to fast to be in those areas. I put the car in fourth this morning and eased the clutch out and the car stalled and died so assuming what I've read the clutch it self is ok wear wise??
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
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