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Old 08-04-2011, 10:20 PM   #43
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If I'm not mistaken that is the rear perch void. After market coil overs had problem hitting the underside of the trunk because that void wasn't tall enough. I'm guessing they needed more clearance with the new suspension
You are getting to be very good at this.
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Old 08-04-2011, 10:23 PM   #44
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Still have tons to learn. But I've got a pretty good teacher.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:46 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTAHVIT View Post
If I'm not mistaken that is the rear perch void. After market coil overs had problem hitting the underside of the trunk because that void wasn't tall enough. I'm guessing they needed more clearance with the new suspension
I do not think so that is it, This is inside of the rear perch mount by a lot, looks more like the CV are there, we know the ZL1 got a new rear end, and it was larger.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:50 PM   #46
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It's to bolt the rear strut tower brace to.
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:54 PM   #47
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LOL.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:19 AM   #48
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Here this post from my build thread may help


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LMAO

Well here are some pics so you can see what I'm talking about with the trunk.

If I continue to get some tapping, I'm gonna drill em out with a whole saw and put a rubber plug in there..

the red "X" in the voids are where I did the hammering. I used the handle of a long framing hammer and a 2.5 lb sledge to beat the sheet metal up.

To find the hammer point (the red X) I taped an inch of crayon to the top of the coilover and carefully seated the completely assembled coil in the LCA and in the void. even with an inch of crayon it easily hits the trunk before the upper perch is flush...

then remove the coil find the crayon smudge and draw and X... then let the beating begin...



from what everyone has told me. I should be good to go.

Pedders already has my Cam endlink on the way Should have it by the time I get home tomorrow.

should be good to go and back on the road

First pick is drivers side rear perch void
Second is passenger side
Third is trunk.


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Old 08-05-2011, 12:39 AM   #49
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Damn. Good catch dude. I had to put them next to each other. Very nice.

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Old 08-05-2011, 12:49 AM   #50
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I did the same, Your right.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:40 AM   #51
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Damn. Good catch dude. I had to put them next to each other. Very nice.

Attachment 272218
Now, if there was just a removable plate there where you could get to the top of the strut tower.......... That would be sweet.



I'm guessing that was pretty shocking Chris, the first time you heard that tapping in there.

And, are those the Pedder's endlinks in your pic?
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:12 AM   #52
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Now, if there was just a removable plate there where you could get to the top of the strut tower.......... That would be sweet.



I'm guessing that was pretty shocking Chris, the first time you heard that tapping in there.

And, are those the Pedder's endlinks in your pic?
Oh, damn. That would be cool. I would make adjusting the stiffness easier.

Those are in fact Pedders end links in his pic.
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:25 AM   #53
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Oh, damn. That would be cool. I would make adjusting the stiffness easier.

Those are in fact Pedders end links in his pic.
I'm liking those the more I look at them. Mine are noisy and seem to be loosening up more and more.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:08 PM   #54
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I'm liking those the more I look at them. Mine are noisy and seem to be loosening up more and more.
Got your PM.

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Now, if there was just a removable plate there where you could get to the top of the strut tower.......... That would be sweet.



I'm guessing that was pretty shocking Chris, the first time you heard that tapping in there.

And, are those the Pedder's endlinks in your pic?
It really wasn't that bad... I could have lived with it. But Pete kept telling me they shouldn't make noise. we just had to find out where it was coming from...

even though the supercars are damn near stock ride quality... (and I'm not kidding... it really does ride very close to stock even down 1.5") .... it was still stiff enough to expose some rattles I didn't hear before. My Lic plate frame was loose, and the battery cable was loose, and there was a small nut bouncing in the battery well I found... that one had me going

Once I got the car all sorted out... only one small click at low speeds over like a bumpy concrete parking lot... when I'd hit the seams it get just a quiet click-click... with the windows down or radio on... I could barely hear it...

Eventually we figured out we had just a teeny tiny bit of coil slap.. .... because I removed the coil insulators not realizing what they were.... rookie mistake. In the end Randy actually figured it out...

My car is now absolutely silent.. I even rarely get the front strut clunk... maybe 3 or 4 times... Like I said... Pete was the one who kept pestering me... when I told him what it was.... he said...

"why did you do that?"

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Now, if there was just a removable plate there where you could get to the top of the strut tower.......... That would be sweet.
Quote:
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Oh, damn. That would be cool. I would make adjusting the stiffness easier.

Those are in fact Pedders end links in his pic.
I know a couple guys got some long speedo cable and routed the upper coilover adjustment knob into the trunk... I think Dan did it on his car.
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:23 PM   #55
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I had coils hitting with mine too. Wondered why there would be plastic on these things? So I turned them around so the manufacturer name was facing out and made all kinds of noise.......then I found out what they were for
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Old 08-05-2011, 12:28 PM   #56
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What a great thread. The posts are either pure genius or comic relief. I won't name any names. I'll just point and whistle.

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