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Old 02-01-2014, 11:17 PM   #43
CamaroLS

 
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Still trying to figure out how without baking my lights. That just scares me. I am headed to get a flexible screwdriver extention at Lowes. Hope that does the trick!!
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:38 PM   #44
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Well I finally decided to bake my headlights to open them up today. Got 1 light done and I will tell you it is well worth the effort. Wrapped the halo ring in aluminum tape like Ofer did and it really does help with the light distribution. I drilled a hole in the top where the RGB sits to help it sit flush when screws are tight like factory. I really enjoyed building this kit myself instead of buying it already done and spending a ton more. I have 50.00 in it with controller and all parts. Thanks for this great write up and ofer!! Enjoy
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:20 AM   #45
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Looks great!
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:19 PM   #46
64stingray
 
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I want to do this mod on my Zl1 and was wondering if anybody did this with hi energy discharge light
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Old 02-13-2014, 08:04 PM   #47
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Sorry about the above, I meant high INTENSITY discharge light
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:31 PM   #48
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Here is a pic of the resistors I am using. Thanks to Ofer for all his help!!
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:02 PM   #49
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Drives: 2011 Camaro 2LT/RS
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problem

So I just installed this mod! Thank you!
But as I was putting everything together, the red led on the driver side went out. I tried changing the wire, applying less pressure and pretty much everything to finally conclude that the R led is burnt. So I ordered a new one and I am going to install it once I get it. But, that's not the problem that I am having right now.

So three days after I installed this mod, I was showing it off to a friend at night, and my girlfriend takes the remote, presses a button, and it didn't do anything. So I asked her to pass it over, and I tried. Nothing. The lights were stuck on pink (cyan on the driver side to the burnt led). I tried everything, from disconnecting the power to the controller, to messing with the wires and nothing worked (I did notice some flickering when I did that).

Fast forward to today, and I plug the controller back in (I left it off because it is illegal to driver with any shade of red on the front in Texas) to test it out and everything worked fine. That is until I started the engine D: the lights were working fine in ON Ignition mode (engine is not on) and I could change the colors just fine, but they start to flicker and lock to whatever color they were set to previously in ON MODE.

Do you know why the flickering happen? and it ONLY happens in ignition mode. Do I need to buy a new controller? Maybe water going into the headlight due to my horrible adhesion method?

Thank you again, any help is appreciated.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:18 PM   #50
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Getting a Pure white is the key for me . Should have my setup done soon .
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:34 AM   #51
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I ordered the parts and doubled the orders so I could do some testing. I glued one of the led, same everybody uses, to a large heat sink and connected 10 ohms resistors. there is a brightness control on the remote and when on max. there is 12v on each led, I put a current meter to check the total current and it's very close to 2 Amps on White. 890 ma. on Red so I expect that those leds won't last very long on this set up. The 24, 27 27 ohms produce the maximum current rating for the leds but I don't know if it's bright enough. The main question I have is where are the resistors after everything is back together because with 10 ohm 10watts resister, within a few minutes they are much too hot to touch and I'm wondering if the could cause damage, they really get HOT
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Old 02-22-2014, 05:18 PM   #52
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One more important thing, I just realized that you wired the leds in parallel and therefore the led calculator that comes up with 24, 27, 27 ohms is not correct. For the same leds in parallel, the red should have 12 ohms and the green & bleu should be 15 ohms. So the 10 ohms is not that far off
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:37 PM   #53
CamaroLS

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64stingray View Post
One more important thing, I just realized that you wired the leds in parallel and therefore the led calculator that comes up with 24, 27, 27 ohms is not correct. For the same leds in parallel, the red should have 12 ohms and the green & bleu should be 15 ohms. So the 10 ohms is not that far off
That is why I got with Ofer on this and he told me to go with the ones I pictured on the 2nd page on this thread. 25 watt 22 ohm and they do not get hot like that. I tried the small 24,27,27 resistors and they were smoking hot right away. Then tried the white 10 watt 10 ohm that your talking about and they got extremely hot to in a short amount of time. The ones I am running now do not get extremely hot and work well and the lights look great. Hope that helps!!
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Old 03-19-2014, 10:24 AM   #54
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I would like to know, when doing this mod on a ZL1, should I remove the ballast or anything else from the headlite unit before putting it in the oven.
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Old 03-19-2014, 01:23 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64stingray View Post
I would like to know, when doing this mod on a ZL1, should I remove the ballast or anything else from the headlite unit before putting it in the oven.
I did not remove anything before sticking them in the oven.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:51 AM   #56
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To camaroLS
Did you have HID lights on your LS
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