Maggie tvs2300 users get in here!

[Blue70SS]

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

No before and after going to 4" stroke, because so much was changed at the same time, but the blower will handle the airflow for about 850-900 rwhp on the motor based on a few things. If you leave the compression at about 10:1 or 10.5:1, the blower will keep up, but need to watch IATs. There are ways around that such as maximizing efficiency with a 102mm TB and snout, ported lower manifold, optimized head/cam combo, many other variables such as E85 and meth. We have a prototype 14 row intercooler brick that fits with a 1/2" spacer between the manifold, should be testing in the next month or two. The snout mentioned here also increases efficiency on the inlet side of the blower, and at that power level it would likely be best to build a 4.5" intake, that is what we are doing currently. With an optimized setup, you won't have to spin the blower as fast, so less heat will be produced on the blower side. There are several other things that can be done to maximize how well the TVS2300 blowers work.

.... Or am I misunderstanding, is the brick 1/4" thicker? I've got the 1/2" thermal spacer which raises the brick 1/2", and if in the end I was 1/4" higher as in your example - the brick would be a 1/4" thicker.

[2012LS3VERT]

Originally Posted by Blue70SS

.... Or am I misunderstanding, is the brick 1/4" thicker? I've got the 1/2" thermal spacer which raises the brick 1/2", and if in the end I was 1/4" higher as in your example - the brick would be a 1/4" thicker.

The core is 2" thick just like the Maggie brick. However, the tanks are 1/2" taller total, 1/4" on top and 1/4" on bottom. That is why they used the bar and plate oil cooler cores for the original bricks, because the tanks could be the same height as the core. You cannot do that with a tube and fin design. Anyone that already has a 1/2" spacer can just use the existing spacer, you just remove the stands that the brick sits on that came with the RDS spacer and reuse the original ones. This will have the core itself 1/4" higher off the manifold floor vs. the Maggie brick. We made our own 1/2" spacer here, but our final design will likely be aluminum, the phenolic is good for drag guys but the street/road course guys should use aluminum so the heat from the blower case doesn't build up.

I have a 12 row that is like the one pictured in my car now. We made it, then realized we could go wider. I gained approx. 1/2 PSI of boost just from the better flow across the core, which indicates an increase in efficiency. Back to back testing is hard because I put the 416 in the car at the same time, and several mods have to be done to install the core, it isn't easy to swap back and forth. Our intent is to install the core and just go balls-to-the-wall on the dyno, as see where the IATs sit at a given HP level.

We will also do a second test, where we spray water/meth AFTER the rotors and before the intercooler brick, which should bring IATs WAY down compared to spraying before the rotors. We have another 1/2" spacer designed to fit between the blower case and lower manifold that will spray water/meth across the intercooler core. This should fit under the stock hood with motor mounts that lower the engine 1/2". I have the Detroit Speed ones.

[2lane 1LE]

this is all just a fairy tale or what ?

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Ive actually went out and looked for the info the other day when I found out here about LC32. The only things I found were on TBSS and truck forums. No sales/pricing info, a couple max effort dyno pulls detailed on the forum but not a single picture of the ramp. I had looked for info on a ramped inlet prior to starting on mine but couldnt find anything until I knew to search for Left Coast 32. That is when I saw the exterior of the inlet and the belt wrap bracket. Their belt wrap bracket is a complete replacement for the bearing support, the one I made previously and only replaces the spacer block. I will freely post a pic of the internals of my ramp, which I now also know to be different than the LC32, having recently seen a couple pictures. Anyone with experience with fluid dynamics can understand that the stock TVS2300 had plenty of room for improvement in the inlet area, which is where I started with a fiberglass prototype which I will also freely provide a picture of if there is a question of how ours was designed.

Now knowing that LC32 made the first inlet, I would be glad to congratulate him on his advancement of the TVS blowers and pushing them to their full potential as we are trying to do with our products mentioned and the 14 row intercooler brick we have made. He apparently beat us to ot by a wide margin, but I may have missed those product releases while I was in Iraq and/or Afghanistan. I never set out to blantantly copy someone else's work while claiming it as my own.

[SannerRacing]

Originally Posted by 2lane 1LE

this is all just a fairy tale or what ?

760-522-8669 talk to Joe he's the owner. He's also on face book. Hope this helps.

[JERRYwss6]

Arlight guys I got a p0171 and a p0174 CEL light. I'm running the magnuson provided time. I have the tvs2300, CAI intake and a Air intake scoop(Adm I believe), I've tried the idle test with starting fluid with no luck, I've tighted my intake, I've made sure my MAF Is on correctly. And also my light didn't turn on till after I added my CAI scoop, you think my light will go away with a tune?

[2012LS3VERT]

It's almost always a vacuum leak somewhere after the MAF sensor, when all other parts stay the same.

[JERRYwss6]

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Ours will likely be a little cheaper if I had to guess. They do take a whole day to machine just one from solid aluminum, we are looking at other options. We just want to get solid chassis dyno numbers to determine if the HP per dollar is worth making them from billet, or if we need to go another route such as Carbon Fiber or thermoplastic like the stock intake manifolds.

I'm currently having piston ring blowby issues on our test car/motor, or I would have tested the new intercooler core and snout by now. Just trying to get that ironed out before blasting it on the dyno.

Any updates on this? I want to put a 102mm TB before I get tuned.

[2lane 1LE]

fairy tale

Originally Posted by JERRYwss6

Any updates on this? I want to put a 102mm TB before I get tuned.

[2012LS3VERT]

Originally Posted by 2lane 1LE

fairy tale

Just wondering what the fairy tale is...
Here is the fiberglass mock up I made when I started the project. Also an in-production picture of the prototype, and it installed on my car.

I have been working on it for a while trying to come up with a way to make it in a different way. Solid billet will cost $750 retail, no way around that when turning a 8" round 6061-T6 block into a oval, deep, hollow part with an obstacle in the center. 8-10 hours of machine time costs quite a bit. Not enough volume to do a casting. We came up with an alternative we hope to test shortly.

[cross-bones]

This construction looks like it would block off the bypass valve. Is that correct ?

[2012LS3VERT]

Provisions are made and have been tested for the bypass air.

[JERRYwss6]

Originally Posted by 2012LS3VERT

Provisions are made and have been tested for the bypass air.

I need one!

[2010SSRSM6]

Stock CI, 2.8" 8 rib on front with OD Cog rear, E85/Meth, 17/8" LT's, 10% OD Crank pulley, WCCH ported/polished heads and AFE's heat exchanger w/2 electric fans made 20#'s of boost and IAT's over 220*'s.

Waiting on a new tank to replace the shitty Maggie cooling setup. Got tired of waiting on a shop that couldn't deliver parts in a timely manner so not using the billet snout or 102mm TB........yet.

Car made 750rw/750tq before IAT's went nuts mid pull. Should be over 800rw when all done.

[2012LS3VERT]

Originally Posted by JERRYwss6

I need one!

Once I can get the car on the dyno, we will evaluate the HP per dollar. It may be worth the $700ish projected price for full billet id the HP gains are significant enough. That design and prototyping is done, so I could spit a few out. Otherwise, we will look at another possible way to make them that would be cheaper but would take longer to bring to market. If someone is willing to pay the price for the full billet, Id be happy to make some.

We only have the one test car, so it has been hard getting all the testing done. I know what the results have been so far, i.e. feel of the car, boost level increase, but really want to get back to back numbers for a standard snout with 90mm, with 102mm, then new snout with 90mm then 102mm to be comfortable announcing them for sale.