BOSTON ACOUSTICS!!!!!!

[ralniv]

Lets not get too excited about the announcement of Boston Acoustics audio. OEMs are notorious for being lower performing than the aftermarket products by the same supplier. Take Bose as an example. Having a Bose audio system in your means squat these days. The expectation of high quality audio is not synonymous with Bose when it comes to audio products (nor is it for home audio, but I digress).

I'll let my ears do the judging.

[evilmaro]

Originally Posted by ralniv

Lets not get too excited about the announcement of Boston Acoustics audio. OEMs are notorious for being lower performing than the aftermarket products by the same supplier. Take Bose as an example. Having a Bose audio system in your means squat these days. The expectation of high quality audio is not synonymous with Bose when it comes to audio products (nor is it for home audio, but I digress).

I'll let my ears do the judging.

that is a very good point im sure we wont see anything near even the lowest level ba speakers they offer in the aftermrket

for example go to http://www.dodge.com/en/2009/challen...r/sight_sound/
and click on sound systems in the left hand colum and find the 8 speaker BA system and you can see a picture of the speakers and it looks like some cheap dual cone's

[Chevyrocker]

I'll pay extra for this sound system for sure. I just don't like changing the electronics in my car...not the HU, not the speakers, nothing.

[Craig]

What the hell is a "seven-channel" subwoofer? I assume this is a misprint of some sort. It doesn't look like this BA system will be on par with the 13-speaker Kicker system available on the Challenger SRT-8 but then again I don't expect to be paying well north of $40k for a Camaro SS either. As long as it's a quality manufacturer and not "BLOSE" I am happy.

[TAG UR IT]

^I have a pretty good feeling you are going to LOVE this sound system.

Now, about Kicker.....

Sorry, but no thanks... I had their speakers and blew 3 subs from them. I switched to JL. I've only gone through one JL 10" 6 years ago and have had the other JL 12" for about ...7 years?? D@mn....I've had those subs for a long time....

AND THEY STILL THUMP PERFECTLY! I LOVE JL!

But, that's going to be for my subs in the trunk. I want everything else to be BA.

[The_Blur]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

^I have a pretty good feeling you are going to LOVE this sound system.

Now, about Kicker.....

Sorry, but no thanks... I had their speakers and blew 3 subs from them. I switched to JL. I've only gone through one JL 10" 6 years ago and have had the other JL 12" for about ...7 years?? D@mn....I've had those subs for a long time....

AND THEY STILL THUMP PERFECTLY! I LOVE JL!

But, that's going to be for my subs in the trunk. I want everything else to be BA.

I'm in the same boat. I want that sound system, but I'm going to need some subs that hit. I'm thinking of getting a 12" Alpine Type X and a ported box with the right amp.

[DILLIGAF]

Doesnt matter to me what the car comes with. I will be going completely aftermarket. 245 watts is not a lot for 9 speakers. I had 300 watts going to my front speakers in my Colorado.

This was a full JL Audio system, 6.5" component speakers in the doors, and 2 10" woofers behind the seats. 300 watts to the speakers, 1000 watts to the subs.

[TAG UR IT]

^That's the kind of set up I'm talkin' about! JL!! Which type subs are those?

[GCguy2169]

245 watts doesnt sound like alot, but thats totally dependent on the fact if thats 245W RMS. Most audio companies try and lure you into believe your getting a more "powerful" speaker but giving you the "Max" wattage of the speaker. When you are buying speakers, you need to buy by the RMS. RMS is the maximum continous power you can apply to your speakers without causing damage, but that in itself can be misleading. Wattage totally depends upon your enclousure you have too.

For example, Infintity had subwoofers that where rated I believe 325W RMS, 1200W MAX. Ok, now if you put 1200W on the speaker, well you jsut wasted your money. After only a few minutes your speaker would melt the CA glue holding the coil to the former. Thus, locking the speaker up. Now applying the recommended wattage (325W) you would be fine, BOX DEPENDENT! IF you were to port it, you need less wattages because your speaker is moving mroe air. Thats why ported subs are louder than sealed. If you seal it, feel free to apply the entire RMS, port it? No, maybe 200W. Try it and you'll see.

[dvnt88]

Originally Posted by DILLIGAF

Doesnt matter to me what the car comes with. I will be going completely aftermarket. 245 watts is not a lot for 9 speakers. I had 300 watts going to my front speakers in my Colorado.

This was a full JL Audio system, 6.5" component speakers in the doors, and 2 10" woofers behind the seats. 300 watts to the speakers, 1000 watts to the subs.

I agree 100%, every system I've heard from any manufacturer has sounded like ass and the stereo is the first thing to be put into my new SS along with aftermarket wheels, tires, tint and lowering kit.
I have 2 Phoenix Gold XMAX 12's in a sealed ******** box powered by a PG Xenon 1200.1, 2 sets of MB Quart RVF-216 components running off a PG Xenon 100.4, Alpine 9887, 4 gauge kit with 200amp fuse and a Kinetik HP800 battery (equal to a 200 farad cap) all mounted under the box (amps, x-overs, and battery) in the well of the trunk and the SQL and SPL is enough to make Helen Keller stand up and take notice. ") I'll have to see if I can find the pictures of the install or take new one's.

[evilmaro]

yeah i already know that ill be going aftermarket, i just hope t it will keep me happy for at least a few days. Going from a Audioque HDC315 in a 4.0cu box tuned to 36hz soon to be powered be a sundown 1500 or a AQ 2200d(2200 watts RMS), im sure i wont be satisfied with the stock system past the first day lol

[evilmaro]

Originally Posted by TAG UR IT

^That's the kind of set up I'm talkin' about! JL!! Which type subs are those?

W3's

[evilmaro]

Originally Posted by GCguy2169

245 watts doesnt sound like alot, but thats totally dependent on the fact if thats 245W RMS. Most audio companies try and lure you into believe your getting a more "powerful" speaker but giving you the "Max" wattage of the speaker. When you are buying speakers, you need to buy by the RMS. RMS is the maximum continous power you can apply to your speakers without causing damage, but that in itself can be misleading. Wattage totally depends upon your enclousure you have too.

For example, Infintity had subwoofers that where rated I believe 325W RMS, 1200W MAX. Ok, now if you put 1200W on the speaker, well you jsut wasted your money. After only a few minutes your speaker would melt the CA glue holding the coil to the former. Thus, locking the speaker up. Now applying the recommended wattage (325W) you would be fine, BOX DEPENDENT! IF you were to port it, you need less wattages because your speaker is moving mroe air. Thats why ported subs are louder than sealed. If you seal it, feel free to apply the entire RMS, port it? No, maybe 200W. Try it and you'll see.

x2, NEVER go by the peak power rating , i always laugh when i see legacy or pyramid pos amps that say like 2000WATTS on the front but will probably only put out like 400rms

and you can overpower good quality speakers a good bit, you just have to make sure your gains are set properly with a DMM and you arnt clipping the junk out of the amp, and also NEVER use bass boost or anything of the sort that will also send a dirty signal to your speakers, and probably wont sound very good anyway.....Clean power > Dirty power

[ZeeTwentyFour]

I'm not up on audio systems that much but Isn't 245W on the low end? My friend has the new challenger which has 520W and it's not that nice, in the bass department at least. maybe he has it set up wrong or something but if 520W isn't that good then whats 245? Maybe Muscle Master can elaborate since he has an SRT.