To trade or not to trade? That is the question

[weSS1LEy]

Thanks! So basically you have to bring the rpms up then the car should launch harder with a converter? Complicated lol

[StingrayblueSS]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

It does not exactly make it faster. It slips more so in a way it makes it slower. The concept is that it will slip until the engine is at a higher rpm, called the stall speed where it starts to lockup with hydrualics, (the mechanical locking clutch is separately actuated), say 3200rpm. At this rpm the engine is making more hp than a stock converter that might stall at 2200rpm. Once you are in the higher rpms, e.g. not from a stop in 1st gear, the higher stall doesn't help anymore as you are already at 5,000rpm or more between shifts. A stronger converter helps if you need that, but that wasn't your question.
Unless the converter has a locking clutch and not too high stall speed that slip is annoying on the street. You push the gas and it's "soggy" and doesn't have that positive snap until the rpms climb.
If you don't know what transmission slip feels like it's something like lightly applied emergency brakes or driving on snow or mud. Then engine speeds up but the car doesn't grab and go.
A better way to achieve higher rpms is differential gearing to 3.91 to 1 or 4.11 to one etc.
Changing the converter is easier and if your tires don't spin it helps racing from a stop. You would see less gain in roll racing or if you have tire spin.
I would add, back in the day with 2 speed or 3 speed automatic transmissions or 4 speed manuals, the improvement was more dramatic. Now the 6, 8 and 10 speed transmissions the gearing improvement is already done for us in a more mpg efficient way in the transmission.
Putting in gears or a converter is legit mostly for drag and roll racing. Depends if your tires will hold the added torque and you want to compromise on street manners and mpg.

Thanks for explaining that. I have 3.91 gears and sometimes drag race but I spin a lot on my launch. Even with drag radials. The cars a lot of fun on the street but it really snaps your neck back when taking off from a stoplight.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by StingrayblueSS

Thanks for explaining that. I have 3.91 gears and sometimes drag race but I spin a lot on my launch. Even with drag radials. The cars a lot of fun on the street but it really snaps your neck back when taking off from a stoplight.

I certainly prefer that positive snap than soggy response to the throttle too. The newest 10speed auto's would be fun, but in a mod'd 5th we couldn't use the lower gears effectively due to tire spin anyhow. I could see the new "LT1" Camaro being a car I'd consider if my current Camaro is T-boned or something.

Originally Posted by weSS1LEy

Thanks! So basically you have to bring the rpms up then the car should launch harder with a converter? Complicated lol

If you look at a dyno graph of hp, the goal is to keep the engine at the peak hp all the time. An interesting side note is the camshaft has the biggest impact on what RPM that the peak hp is at.
The fastest first 60foot times are who can hook the most hp (highest engine rpm and most hp engine) without tirespin. In fact for the whole race too.
There is also stored kinetic energy in the spinning crankshaft, flywheel and clutch so a weeny engine can spin the tires at launch even if it is too weak to break them loose without that sudden clutch dump from a high rpm.

[LCPLPunk]

Ok, so....with my 3200 I don't feel there is really any sogginess or delay. It's not like I'm sitting at a stoplight and it turns green and I hit it and it takes a second to go. It might take like an additional millisecond, but that's it.

This one is made by Circle D to be their best Daily Driver, which is why I got it. https://www.circledspecialties.com/6...p-series-278mm - $600


Worth EVERY penny! Unless I 100% floor it at a light I have good traction on daily driver 275 tires. And I even have 3.91's!


EDIT: Oh...and I daily mine through sun, rain, snow, and STILL get 18.3 mpg...

[DRKS1D3]

Don't overthink this and be smart about it. You've only owned your car for 1 year and you STILL owe ~$20k on it. It isn't even worth that much. You're upside down by at least a few grand. Do not be one of those guys that continually rolls their upside vehicles into another vehicle. You're eventually going to owe $60k on a $20k car.

Again, please be smart about this.

[redcoats1976]

have a friend that did this.he now owes 30k on a 2014 1SS with 56k miles on it.cant afford tires,sneakers,haircut or even an oil change.i dont know what he was thinking but he regrets it now.

[Cheap Guy]

The previous two posters were right on. Don’t get yourself into a financial jam chasing the last person who beat you and at the end of the 1/4.

[pnwdan]

If you are hellbent on getting a new car, sell it outright. Low mileage clean cars will pull a higher premium. Your mods are minimal and wont count against you. If it were me I would sell it just to get out of the high payment loan. I wouldn't get into a Mopar though. You pay more for less performance. Get a ZL1