Lifter/Cam failure advice

[SuperChuck]

Originally Posted by PhantomBlack

I honestly don't think GPI normally do break ins on a cam swap. Total engine rebuild sure, but not roller cam swaps. I know they changed my oil while it was there to the LS30, but I think that was it... If they did use a break in oil they didn't charge me for it. So yeah I doubt it.

Damn I feel rough. I didn't know. It was passed down to me from GPI. They even knew i had to drive it 6hrs home.

[PhantomBlack]

Originally Posted by SuperChuck

Damn I feel rough. I didn't know. It was passed down to me from GPI. They even knew i had to drive it 6hrs home.

I drove there from FL it was like a 11 hour one way trip so I feel your pain. They knew I was driving from FL too. If I remember correctly I asked one of the guys that was working on my car if a break in was necessary and he said no. I was stuck in a hotel in Arkansas for about a week so I did some research and their is a lot of conflicting info on the subject. Some swear it's a must do or else your doomed and others say it's a waste of time and money and it's not necessary at all. I'm not an expert so I took their advice and let them do what they do. I think whatever happened with your car was a freak accident (because of the really low amount of miles). Whatever it may be I just hope it's not a costly fix for you and you get back on the road better than ever.

[pnwdan]

Originally Posted by PhantomBlack

I honestly don't think GPI normally do break ins on a cam swap. Total engine rebuild sure, but not roller cam swaps. I know they changed my oil while it was there to the LS30, but I think that was it... If they did use a break in oil they didn't charge me for it. So yeah I doubt it.

Nobody really does a break in on an LS3 cam swap. Everything is roller. I've read countless threads about it. The only thing I've seen people recommend is heat cycling the new springs. If you have oil pressure at start up and good lube on it during assembly its gonna be fine. Break in iant the issue.

[racesloth]

I don't think even the camaros rolling off the production line get a break in....

Worrying about break in for a roller cam swap only is a bit of overkill IMHO. When I last put my engine together I did run it on cheap mineral 30wt for 15 min to warm up and then changed the oil to synthetic. Not for break in but because the engine had been opened up down to the short block for over 6 months. Even though I tried to keep all as clean as possible I was sure dirt/dust made it into the shortblock...

[SuperChuck]

Yes it does definitely suck. But yea guess just accepting the fact of this being a freak accident. Just my dumb luck. On the much brighter side I'll probably make a full post on this later but GPI seems to be working with me as far as some discounted prices or such for the repairs.

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by racesloth

I don't think even the camaros rolling off the production line get a break in....

Worrying about break in for a roller cam swap only is a bit of overkill IMHO. When I last put my engine together I did run it on cheap mineral 30wt for 15 min to warm up and then changed the oil to synthetic. Not for break in but because the engine had been opened up down to the short block for over 6 months. Even though I tried to keep all as clean as possible I was sure dirt/dust made it into the shortblock...

Stock engines also aren't dealing with the lift and spring pressures we put these through when installing aftermarket cam. Also, one of the most common failures i see is with the 6.2 on new vehicles is cam/lifter failure. Most people drive their brand new car pretty easy for a while anyway. All engines are run before they go out to the dealership though i don't know how they run them. There's plenty of articles out there suggesting break in on a roller cam. For the cost of an oil change and 25 minutes of your time i see absolutely no reason not to do it when if there's a slight possibility it matters. Roller or not, there's edges on a new cam that will wear off and wear in to the lifter roller.

[pnwdan]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Stock engines also aren't dealing with the lift and spring pressures we put these through when installing aftermarket cam. Also, one of the most common failures i see is with the 6.2 on new vehicles is cam/lifter failure. Most people drive their brand new car pretty easy for a while anyway. All engines are run before they go out to the dealership though i don't know how they run them. There's plenty of articles out there suggesting break in on a roller cam. For the cost of an oil change and 25 minutes of your time i see absolutely no reason not to do it when if there's a slight possibility it matters. Roller or not, there's edges on a new cam that will wear off and wear in to the lifter roller.

But there is nothing to break in. You have a roller bearing rolling on a surface and a hydraulic lifter. It's not the same as a flat tappet lifter or a solid lifter.

I'm just going by the hundreds of things I've read. They all say the same thing. The cam itself doesn't require break in.

[Greenhornet2]

Metal surface is running on a metal surface

[Greenhornet2]

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/...ller-camshaft/
https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...and-lifters%3F
https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...and-lifters%3F
Again, why risk not doing it?

[Big Biscuits]

For what it’s worth, I only use amsoil. I only change oil after a cam swap when I am finished tuning. It’s more for the rich condition and oil dilution than break in.

[JD555]

Whats the difference between varying the RPM on a cam break in sitting in your driveway and just taking if for a run around the neighborhood? Its not like a cam and lifters feel anything different sitting in neutral or driving. The load is the same on the cam and lifters not like a main bearing.

[SuperChuck]

So sorry OP if you feel I'm jacking your post I'll make a new one. Still no anything new as far as progress really. GPI did feel that is wasn't anything they did and if it was it would have happened much sooner. James did offer me 10% above cost for the cam package. And if I chose to have them do the work all parts will be at 10% above cost. So now I guess it's just waiting game and decisions. Basically the same. So ready yet so afraid of hearing it's time for a new engine.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/...ller-camshaft/
https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...and-lifters%3F
https://help.summitracing.com/app/an...and-lifters%3F
Again, why risk not doing it?

I absolutely agree. Your definitely not hurting anything by doing it. I build engines for a living. The stuff I build is mostly solid lifter but even with the roller cams on these engines, I wont run a new cam regardless of lifter style, without proper break in period.

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by JD555

Whats the difference between varying the RPM on a cam break in sitting in your driveway and just taking if for a run around the neighborhood? Its not like a cam and lifters feel anything different sitting in neutral or driving. The load is the same on the cam and lifters not like a main bearing.

In your driveway in neutral you can hold steady rpm and change rpms slightly and hold steady rpm again. Driving the is a lot of rpm fluctuation and low rpm events which are not recommended for cam break in.