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Old 02-16-2023, 08:07 AM   #43
ABM2SS
 
Drives: 2010 SS M6 ABM
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The project is moving along, got the Rear Cradle out last night. I am now trying to figure out the best way to remove the old bushings. Joe G. you posted
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I had a Bearing press for big trucks when I did mine, They pushed right out with Zero heat and no effort.
What does that tool look like?
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Old 02-16-2023, 08:16 AM   #44
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I used the Matco tool in the link, The rear bushings I ran out of thread so I cut a piece of exhaust pipe to extend it a bit. This literally took a few minutes to push each out and that's including set up, No heat and no headaches. Well worth the cost of the kit Harbor freight has a similar tool ( Obviously this one is a lot cheaper then the kit I used but looks similar and I don't see why it wouldn't work ).


https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/p...-installer-set






https://www.harborfreight.com/front-...0aAquOEALw_wcB
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GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights
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Old 02-22-2023, 08:01 AM   #45
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Thanks, but ended-up making my own Bushing insertion tool...
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Old 02-22-2023, 05:33 PM   #46
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Did it work well for you? They really don't press out that hard and no need for heat.
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GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights
AeroForce Dual gauge/Autometer pillar mount.
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Old 02-23-2023, 07:53 AM   #47
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My old ones were pretty well stuck in the Cradle. Took a lot of force to get them out. Pressing the new ones in wasn't bad. Biggest problem was that my compressor couldn't keep-up with the usage from the Impact Wrench. So I had to wait for it to cycle a few times.
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Old 03-17-2023, 08:45 AM   #48
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Out with the old..
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Old 03-17-2023, 08:47 AM   #49
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In with the new!...
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Old 03-28-2023, 07:51 AM   #50
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Done. Handles great! Feels twice as good as when it was new!!!
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Old 03-28-2023, 07:54 AM   #51
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Nice Good Alignment specs help as well
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GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights
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Old 03-28-2023, 08:06 AM   #52
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Quote:
Nice Good Alignment specs help as well
I had them align it to the 2013 1LE Specs.
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Old 04-21-2023, 09:58 AM   #53
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All is well here except that since I did the 1LE upgrade, when I corner even kind of hard the Traction Control activates. It happens when the car is in "Competitive Mode" as well. Is there a way to prevent this without completely turning the traction control off?
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Old 05-25-2023, 06:32 PM   #54
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Piggy backing off this thread instead of starting a new one. I tried purchasing a 1le track pack but seems all the places within my budget are actually out of stock even whole listing them as available, so that got me thinking, what if I just try and build my own 1le track pack, but with blackjack and hookers, list so far seems to be:
-bilsteim monotube shocks for front and rear
-fe4 rear lower control arm conversion kit because I like the end link placement
-bmr front\rear sway bars and end links
I am going this route because I wanna keep stock ride height, bmr lower control arms would be ideal but seems they shortened them for lower ride height, also as mentioned previously in thread no point changing springs since all offers are lowering ones (plus my car is still young and spry around 65k miles), I did notice that the track pack comes with toe rods but they looks like what I already have, so is there a point in upgrading to bmr ones or something equivalent? Also considering the bushings on the control arm but swing how the new arms will have stock bushings I don't know if it's worth struggling to get those out for reducing the wheel hop.
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Old 05-25-2023, 08:55 PM   #55
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I would definitely do Adjustable Toe Rods and trailing arms, I would either do a Hotckis chaise brace or solid cradle bushings they are going to make a very big difference.
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GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights
AeroForce Dual gauge/Autometer pillar mount.
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Old 05-25-2023, 09:13 PM   #56
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Biggest part of the 1LE is the shocks and bars and then the wheels and tires. The 3.91 is a nice upgrade but the 1LE cars have different gears in the TR6060 that make first essentially the same.

The springs are the same between the 1LE and SS so get some good shocks, bars and sticky tires and you should be right there.
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