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Old 02-22-2023, 07:27 PM   #43
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I would like to see where you are getting the idea that the dealer is putting on a reconditioned unit unless this is something they just started. The dealers were told to dispose of the unit, I haven't heard of them being sent back to Eaton. When the recall first came out Ebay was flooded with cheap used units that were warranty takeoffs sold by the tech that took them off. The rattle will not "eventually damage your engine"-I have never heard this stated before. What will happen is eventually a groove will be worn in the center shaft-the center shaft but it will do no harm to the engine or supercharger. The sellers of the solid couplers say the dust from the spring rubbing the shaft will cause accelerated wear on the front bearing-I have no first hand knowledge of this ever happening and its a sealed bearing so I question the validity of this. I am not knocking the solid couplers at all-I believe they are the better choice for high performance use. Its just that every body thinks the rattle is a kiss of death and its not. I still am willing to bet the new unit you get will not have a solid coupler-no matter what the dealer may be telling you. The easy wat to find out for sure is remove the belt and quickly rock your pulley back and forth by hand you will feel a slight give as you rock it verses zero play of the solid. The coupler with the spring and grease is perfectly fine and will last just as long as a solid coupler. I used to be in the automotive parts and service business and still try to keep up with things, but have been out of it for a long while so its possible GM may be supplying reconditioned unit but this is the first Ive heard of it.
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Old 02-24-2023, 01:10 PM   #44
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bsn, I was told by some fellow guys who had this problem { I may have read here to that the superchargers were sent back to GM so they could determine what the problem was} years ago when the first problems of the rattle started showing up in these cars. I was told they were sent back to GM but if that is wrong thats my bad. But they were returned to somewhere and if it was to Eaton and not GM then one or the other ended up with them. As far as sending back superchargers that the techs pulled off I have not heard or read anything about that. So to point out something else I picked up my car yesterday afternoon and when I did I ask the shop foreman if the supercharger they put on had the solid or spring isolator on it. He did not know but he went back in the shop and ask the tech that installed it and came back to the front and he said it was the solid one. Soon I will get it to my shop and pull the belt off and see for myself but right now I am going by what they told me.
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Old 02-24-2023, 02:52 PM   #45
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my replacement supercharger came with the updated spring isolator. I replaced it with a solid one after. I still have the spring isolator on my tool box. I don't have faith in the tech that he can tell what came in the supercharger. But I can be wrong.
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Old 02-24-2023, 03:36 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtime53 View Post
bsn, I was told by some fellow guys who had this problem { I may have read here to that the superchargers were sent back to GM so they could determine what the problem was} years ago when the first problems of the rattle started showing up in these cars. I was told they were sent back to GM but if that is wrong thats my bad. But they were returned to somewhere and if it was to Eaton and not GM then one or the other ended up with them. As far as sending back superchargers that the techs pulled off I have not heard or read anything about that. So to point out something else I picked up my car yesterday afternoon and when I did I ask the shop foreman if the supercharger they put on had the solid or spring isolator on it. He did not know but he went back in the shop and ask the tech that installed it and came back to the front and he said it was the solid one. Soon I will get it to my shop and pull the belt off and see for myself but right now I am going by what they told me.
Pretty simple check with a drive socket or breaker bar, less the 1 min.
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Old 02-24-2023, 04:42 PM   #47
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Pretty simple check with a drive socket or breaker bar, less the 1 min.
I will know soon then let you know. Thanks
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Old 03-11-2023, 09:26 AM   #48
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Hmmm. I got about 4500 miles on mine at the moment, bought it new, end of August 2013. So I guess I still got about 5 months to go for warranty coverage on the S/C. I haven't heard anything yet. Wonder if I should just put in a solid isolator myself before it gets to rattling?
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Old 03-11-2023, 10:00 AM   #49
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Hmmm. I got about 4500 miles on mine at the moment, bought it new, end of August 2013. So I guess I still got about 5 months to go for warranty coverage on the S/C. I haven't heard anything yet. Wonder if I should just put in a solid isolator myself before it gets to rattling?
If you have the ability it is my preferred option unless you know a good tech that would take care of your car and do everything right. I don't like playing roulette with taking a fast car to dealer at all. Lucky enough if they fix it right and not do some collateral damage.
The good thing is it isn't like an item that destroys the engine without notice like the LS7 issue. You can wait past rattles until front bearing squeel but then it would involve more work and expense.
I have a solid coupler planning to do it like you said when I take out brick for reinforcment but haven't gotten around to them.
I agree with zme above I could't really be sure moving it by hand and would have needed a breaker bar to move it to be sure but didn't bother so IDK which I have either.
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Old 03-11-2023, 11:33 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by silversleeper View Post
If you have the ability it is my preferred option unless you know a good tech that would take care of your car and do everything right. I don't like playing roulette with taking a fast car to dealer at all. Lucky enough if they fix it right and not do some collateral damage.
The good thing is it isn't like an item that destroys the engine without notice like the LS7 issue. You can wait past rattles until front bearing squeel but then it would involve more work and expense.
I have a solid coupler planning to do it like you said when I take out brick for reinforcment but haven't gotten around to them.
I agree with zme above I could't really be sure moving it by hand and would have needed a breaker bar to move it to be sure but didn't bother so IDK which I have either.
After reading this I want to make sure no one is interpreting that you use a breaker bar with a socket on the pulley to test… You use the breaker bar or the socket wrench to insert in the open slot on the tensioner and pull the tensioner back that releases the tension on the drive belt. With no tension on the belt you can wiggle the sc drive pulley to check..
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Old 03-11-2023, 07:20 PM   #51
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You use the breaker bar so you can remove the belt from the supercharger pulley. Easy off-easy on easy test to see what isolator you have either and no noise don't sweat it.

Still waiting to hear from Bigtime53 as to what is on his replacement supercharger.
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Old 03-12-2023, 06:45 PM   #52
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You use the breaker bar so you can remove the belt from the supercharger pulley. Easy off-easy on easy test to see what isolator you have either and no noise don't sweat it.

Still waiting to hear from Bigtime53 as to what is on his replacement supercharger.
Well crap sorry about not coming back and letting everyone know but I have been covered up and have not had time to check. I will do it tomorrow {unless I get slammed and cannot get to it}and get back and let you know.
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Old 03-19-2023, 08:46 AM   #53
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Any update on this Bigtime?
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