Jacking Points and axle stand points - Page 4 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Toasty · 03-08-2012, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OmniCamaro

I use the cut outs on the four corners as seen in those last pictures. They're right on the edge of the body.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Inside the pinch welds? Hope so... On pinch welds not a good idea

SummoneR · 03-08-2012, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kiteman

i am wanting to install a skip shift eliminator. could i just jack up the rear driver's side, secure with one stand, and climb under? looks like i may not get enough height that way. just seems like a lot of trouble to completely jack up the front of the car to do this.

That's dicey! I would not.

E.T. · 07-24-2013, 09:32 PM

Is it OK to use the "pumpkin" as a lift point with a floor jack (and a piece of wood in between)?

PAUL SS · 07-24-2013, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E.T.

Is it OK to use the "pumpkin" as a lift point with a floor jack (and a piece of wood in between)?

Not advisable. Go inside the pinch welds to the largest flattest spot you can find (it will have a large hole) and use a piece of plywood to spread the weight over a larger area than the jack or jack stand.

VACamaro · 01-09-2016, 04:24 PM

Okay, don't laugh, so the car is jacked up, rear wheels off the ground, lug nuts off ... why won't the wheel come off or spin on the axle? I have changed tires before, but I am at a loss ... I thought I pulled pretty hard, do I just need to pull harder?

Thunderfury · 01-10-2016, 02:30 AM

VA, being that you have an automatic from what your member listing has, the rear differential will be locked since it's in park most likely. As far as not coming off of the vehicle with the lug nuts off, it's possible you have a little corrosion built up between the mating surfaces of the rim and the hub. If so, in my personal experience, the easiest way to remove the wheel would be applying concussive force with your palm on alternating sides of the wheel. Some would probably just call this hitting it... which you are, but if you hit one side, then the other, it generally breaks loose any corrosion enough for the wheel to come off. That is of course assuming the cause is just simply corrosion, but I've seen plenty of wheels that I've changed tires on that I've had to hit with a sizable dead-blow hammer to hit the wheel off because of rust and corrosion. If there IS excessive rust or corrosion, then I'd recommend investing in a wire brush and a can of brake cleaner and scrubbing and cleaning the hub surface very well to remove as much as possible.

Galaxy_Stranger · 03-10-2016, 10:45 PM

TIMELINE!

I'm trying to lift the front up first - my floor jack gives me 24 inches into the car. I can't quite see if I'm hitting that first bar for the lift point. Should 24" be enough from the bumper or is there another way to get at it?

Mr V · 03-11-2016, 03:12 PM

Mine us lowered so I drive it up on 2x8 under the front wheels to raise it. That allows me to get the jack under it far enough to the crossmember.

07-24-2013, 09:32 PM	#45
E.T. Drives: 2012 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 3,273	Is it OK to use the "pumpkin" as a lift point with a floor jack (and a piece of wood in between)? __________________

01-09-2016, 04:24 PM	#47
VACamaro Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Crystal Red Tintcoat A6 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Virginia Posts: 90	Okay, don't laugh, so the car is jacked up, rear wheels off the ground, lug nuts off ... why won't the wheel come off or spin on the axle? I have changed tires before, but I am at a loss ... I thought I pulled pretty hard, do I just need to pull harder?

01-10-2016, 02:30 AM	#48
Thunderfury Drives: 2011 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Tallahassee, FL Posts: 11	VA, being that you have an automatic from what your member listing has, the rear differential will be locked since it's in park most likely. As far as not coming off of the vehicle with the lug nuts off, it's possible you have a little corrosion built up between the mating surfaces of the rim and the hub. If so, in my personal experience, the easiest way to remove the wheel would be applying concussive force with your palm on alternating sides of the wheel. Some would probably just call this hitting it... which you are, but if you hit one side, then the other, it generally breaks loose any corrosion enough for the wheel to come off. That is of course assuming the cause is just simply corrosion, but I've seen plenty of wheels that I've changed tires on that I've had to hit with a sizable dead-blow hammer to hit the wheel off because of rust and corrosion. If there IS excessive rust or corrosion, then I'd recommend investing in a wire brush and a can of brake cleaner and scrubbing and cleaning the hub surface very well to remove as much as possible.

03-10-2016, 10:45 PM	#49
Galaxy_Stranger Drives: Black 2013 2SS LS3 1LE Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Houston Posts: 256	TIMELINE! I'm trying to lift the front up first - my floor jack gives me 24 inches into the car. I can't quite see if I'm hitting that first bar for the lift point. Should 24" be enough from the bumper or is there another way to get at it?

03-11-2016, 03:12 PM	#50
Mr V Drives: 2011 VR SS Vert Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 375	Mine us lowered so I drive it up on 2x8 under the front wheels to raise it. That allows me to get the jack under it far enough to the crossmember.