05-15-2014, 02:02 PM | #5881 |
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Well, I'm about to sound like a total noob...and well quite frankly I am when it comes to rifles. I want to pick up an AR here in probably a month but I have no idea where to start as in whats good/not good. I'm sure its probably better to buy your parts and build one yourself but I have no idea how so I'm just gonna buy one from the store. I'm looking to spend $800-$1200 and I know that isn't going to get me anything fantastic, but its a start. In that price range, what do you guys suggest I start to look at? I was probably going to go with .223 unless you all think there is something else I should go with?
I'm open to any suggestions good or bad. I currently own 3 guns...my 20 gauge shotgun my parents got me ages ago as a gift, my marlin .22, and my ccw gun, a springfield XD9 sub compact. Thanks.
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05-15-2014, 02:51 PM | #5882 |
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When it comes to AR's, ask the vendor if the rifle is Mil spec or Commercial spec. You want Mil spec simply because 90% of the parts out there are designed for Mil spec rifles so it will be easier to mod the gun if you decide to later.
Also your $800-$1,200 limit is too high. If you spend that much your stupid. AR-15's can currently be had for $600-$700. Don't be fooled by someone saying the big names are better and thus worth the extra money, all you are paying for is the name, that's it. There is only 4 companies that actually make the main parts of an AR, they just etch whatever companies name on the parts and charge extra. A $600 Delton will shoot just as good, be just as accurate, and be just as reliable as a $1,800 Colt. If you're buying the gun, stick with .223. Other calibers that come in AR-15's require you build some and will be over your limit. |
05-15-2014, 04:50 PM | #5883 | |
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05-15-2014, 06:38 PM | #5884 |
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Academy is overpriced on their guns. Check you local gun shows and Walmart. Every Walmart near me has at least 4-5 AR's to choose from in that range.
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05-15-2014, 06:48 PM | #5885 |
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The M&P 15 is a good place to start or if you want a higher quality, the Daniel Defense DDM4 or LMT Defender are good rifles.
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05-15-2014, 08:05 PM | #5886 |
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Colt makes some good entry level AR's, as does Windham Weaponry. I personally would stay away from DPMS.
I do disagree with Draco that 800-1200 bucks is too high, but it really depends on how "basic" of a rifle you're looking for (he and I might have a different idea of "basic"). Like anything else, not all AR parts are truly equal. Some manufacturers really charge for the name (POF comes to mind), but some are better than others. Some come with different accessories, for instance the 1400 dollar Sig AR comes with a quad rail and flip up irons, instead of a plastic hand guard with no sights... etc etc.
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05-15-2014, 09:23 PM | #5887 | |
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05-15-2014, 11:47 PM | #5888 | ||
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If you guys point me in the right direction I'd definitely be willing to give it a shot.
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05-15-2014, 11:59 PM | #5889 |
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05-16-2014, 12:07 AM | #5890 |
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Just added a Springfield M1A .308 and S&W M&P 9mm to my collection tonight
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05-16-2014, 04:40 AM | #5891 |
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You can buy both of these for about $100. You're really better off buying just a basic gun and then adding the things you want, you'll save money in the end.
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05-16-2014, 08:43 AM | #5892 | ||
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I do agree that buying a basic gun and adding is a good idea in general, but the build quality of a basic gun is still different if you were to compare a "basic" DPMS to a "basic" Sig or a Colt. There is a reason DPMS rifles are as cheap as they are. Just like anything else, the materials used are cheaper, allowing for a cheaper rifle. Tolerance is looser on the parts. The Wal-Mart Sporticle has no chrome-lined barrel, no forward assist, no sights, no case deflector, and a plastic handguard, and it costs about 700 dollars (not on sale). That's bare-bones basic, and you'll ultimately spend just as much adding or replacing those things as you would if you just spend the extra 200-300 dollars in the first place. DPMS used just as an example, because I had one when I was younger. I would never buy another. ETA: I should point out that things like chrome-lining are not necessary and are really a preference more than anything. A non-lined barrel will work great, and if cleaned properly. My preference for chrome lining is more prior military preference (they're easier to clean, and less prone to corrosion... both of which might not matter to another person).
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05-16-2014, 03:11 PM | #5893 | |
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Thanks! I don't really know how else to describe basic other than I already have since I don't know much about them. I really like Sigs but from what I've seen they are generally out of my price range. I guess maybe I should explain it like this. I want a quality, tight fitting parts gun that doesn't have many plastic, cheap parts that looks like this... so that I can then buy aftermarket accessories as I get the cash to make it looks more like this... (obviously just using this as an upgraded AR example not of what i want to do to mine lol)
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05-16-2014, 03:25 PM | #5894 | |
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As for plastic, you've got to understand that a lot of AR parts are plastic/polymer. Buttstock, handguards, buffer tube, pistol grips, foregrip (if you get one)... they're like that to keep them light weight. That second AR picture you showed probably weighs far too much for a "battle rifle", and tbh most of that crap is just for show. The first one, as gawdy as it looks, will be the lightest. What you could do is build your own (even if you don't know how). There are many ways to do it, so that you can put it together how you want. You can buy lower receivers that have no parts (stripped) or a lower that has all the parts you need (complete lower). Then you can pick the upper, type of barrel, type of system (gas or piston), type of hardguard/rail, bolt carrier... etc. You don't even need to put the pieces together, although learning how would help you greatly understand your firearm. This way you're not paying for things you don't want/need. For instance, my favorite mod on my AR is the BCM charging handle. It's like 40 or 50 bucks. I replaced the factory one, and now it just sits there. What you can do, is buy an upper without a bolt carrier/charging handle, and buy them separate. See what I mean? Lots of people here can help you with this process.
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