05-07-2013, 08:15 PM | #631 |
Bryce
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I have the 2010 Camaro too and took it back because of the knocking noise coming from the front end. The dealer in Las Vegas, NV replaced the Rack and Pinion. When I got it back I thought all was repaired but the service writer had a bulletin he printed of line about the knocking and no fix was possible at the moment. This was back in 2010 when I first got the Camaro brand new. It will still happen if I am not paying attention and I hit a bump to fast. Makes me cringe and hope I didn't break anything. Please add me to any list as well.
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05-07-2013, 08:16 PM | #632 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
Document ID: 3405388 #PIC5819A 2013 Camaro Built After October 1, 2012 Condition / Concern On vehicles built after October 1, 2012 a repetitive clicking or popping noise may be heard in the front of the vehicle at low speeds. Recommendation / Instructions Replace the front strut or struts. Parts have been revised and all old stock was purged. IMPORTANT: Do NOT replace the upper mount - it is NOT the cause of the condition. |
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05-07-2013, 08:21 PM | #633 | |||
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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05-07-2013, 09:18 PM | #634 |
Bayou City Muscle Cars
Drives: 2013 2SS Dusk Edition Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 1,443
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ive got this issue ;(
major thunking on passenger side when going over small speed bumps.
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2013 2SS Dusk Edition
Lethal Racing Stage V PER 418ci Forged LS3 530/520 SAE |
05-09-2013, 09:45 AM | #635 |
passionate
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I have the same issue with my 2012 2LT/RS and it is still exist!!
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05-09-2013, 11:55 AM | #636 | ||
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
Quote:
Camaro Front End Noise Correction Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane. Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator. Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components. Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here. 1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate. 2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight. 3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons. 4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun. 5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down. 6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight. 7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight. 8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight. 9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight. The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun. |
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05-09-2013, 03:52 PM | #637 | |
Bayou City Muscle Cars
Drives: 2013 2SS Dusk Edition Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 1,443
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Quote:
No damage at all and under warranty except powertrain of course. I would not have the resources to do any of this. Dealer or a shop would have to check. Screw it time to pedderize with the pace car pack. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
__________________
2013 2SS Dusk Edition
Lethal Racing Stage V PER 418ci Forged LS3 530/520 SAE |
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05-09-2013, 03:54 PM | #638 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
The coilover stack is a bit different when using our new Dual Bearing Camber Plates. Discard the gold tone washer supplied with your Pedders coilovers. All you'll use in the assembly stack are the bumpstop, boot, plastic coil insulator, lower spring perch with banded thurst bearing, the camber plate and special nut supplied with the camber plate. The assembled coilover with dual bearing camber plate looks like this from the side. And this from the top. |
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05-09-2013, 04:30 PM | #639 |
Bayou City Muscle Cars
Drives: 2013 2SS Dusk Edition Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 1,443
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Cool Owen at ARD is the person that will be doing all that for me.
Thanks though. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
__________________
2013 2SS Dusk Edition
Lethal Racing Stage V PER 418ci Forged LS3 530/520 SAE |
05-09-2013, 04:38 PM | #640 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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05-13-2013, 12:04 PM | #641 |
passionate
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Where can I find an Owen in Riyadh?
Mine has 3.5k, 5 months old 2012, and I believe that I've started to notice the sound after the first 500k if I am not mistaken!! I've taken it to the agency, and test drove it with a mechanic beside me but I couldn't get it to happen with him beside me :'( The sound existed at that test drive but it wasn't that loud that only I heard it!! He told me that he would love to fix it for me but he just can't hear it and can't get something fixed without knowing the issue (long stroy), at the end he added, don't worry if it is going to cause more damage with time, we will fix all the damaged parts under warranty for free :/ I was like the damage that it might be caused by that sound isn't the only thing concerning me, it is the sound that bugs me!!
__________________
I love you my precious
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05-13-2013, 01:20 PM | #642 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
Camaro Front End Noise Correction Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane. Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator. Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components. Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here. 1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate. 2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight. 3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons. 4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun. 5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down. 6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight. 7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight. 8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight. 9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight. The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun. |
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05-14-2013, 06:15 PM | #643 |
Drives: 2010 2SS RS Black w/ gray stripes Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 47
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Mine is fixed (for now?)
Here is the exact rundown of work done via the invoice. Underlined the part where the noise went away.
"Tightened all subframe bolts - noise still present. Tightened sway bar mounts - noise still present. Removed sway bar end links - noise still present. Tightened steering rack - noise still present. Tightened left lower control arm to subframe bolts - noise no longer present. Road tested multiple times, noise no longer present. Re-installed all removed components. Road tested, no abnormal noise at this time." Hope this helps someone, and hopefully that's all it was and it doesn't come back. The guy at Carr Chevy said that it was just some loose bolts on my control arm...we'll see if it comes back. |
05-15-2013, 08:52 PM | #644 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for this. I will schedule time in the local auto craft shop when I get the chance, hopefully this will resolve the issue.
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