popping in front end when I hit a bump

[SinisSick]

i'll talk to my dealer about this. I'm out of my warranty, but they looked at it and said they tightened whatever they could down. I havent really checked since then, but if its still there ill ask about the insulator.

Originally Posted by STINGER BEE

I had thumping/popping noise in the struts more so in the passenger side versus the driver side.Fought with the Dealer and GM until I took those pictures in and question them the new neoprene insulator versus the one that came with the car.
GM even offered me a oil and filter change to try and shut me up,but like I told them keep their oil and filter that won't correct the problem.Anyway after confronting them with this information they finally bit the bullet and change the insulator.If you read earlier threads by me , you will see threads when I was experiencing this issue.
Problem solved ,no more thumping or popping.

[tonyG]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Sounds like a mechanic willing to work with you. Print out these instructions and take them with you to the Agency. In the USA you get better results if you show up with a couple dozen donuts, a gallon of coffee and the instructions


Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.

So it is okay to use an air gun on the struts? How important is the 65lb-ft of torque? I'm having a hard time getting this to spec with a torque wrench because of the torx bit need to hold the center. I'm guessing it doesn't matter as long as it's really tight? Could I just compress the spring and tighten it down all the way and then release it?

[Rcfiddy1]

Add me to list. Bought car new in Sept of 09, 52k miles. Took it out yesterday for some spirited turns and "clunk" when turning hard.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1

Add me to list. Bought car new in Sept of 09, 52k miles. Took it out yesterday for some spirited turns and "clunk" when turning hard.

What aftermarket suspension parts are on your car?

[Mark T]

Easily reproduced in reverse over dropped bumps turning right backing up,.. no more than 4mph,.. easily around 3mph.

Less tha 1400 miles total.

Bone stock 1LE here.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Mark T

Easily reproduced in reverse over dropped bumps turning right backing up,.. no more than 4mph,.. easily around 3mph.

Less tha 1400 miles total.

Bone stock 1LE here.

Mark,

The thing about noise threads is they get confused. A noise from a bone stock vehicle is one thing and a noise from a modified suspension is another.

Print this post and take it with you to your Chevy Dealer.

Camaro Front End Noise Correction

Inspection -- Determine if the upper spring insulator is black rubber or beige urethane.

Inspection -- If it is black rubber and partially displaced, replace it with the updated steel and urethane insulator.

Inspection -- Is there any damage to any of the front end components.

Inspection -- If available test drive with chassis ears in place to identify the source. If chassis ears are not available complete the 9 Steps listed here.

1. With the weight of the car on the wheels, remove the strut retaining nut and plate.
2. Burp the exposed strut assembly nut tight with the biggest baddest air gun in the shop. TQ is the key. We need a sudden acceleration of the nut to make it tight.
3. Reinstall the strut retaining plate and strut retaining nut. Tighten with the same over kill air gun for the same reasons.
4. Hit the strut clevis bolts with the same gun.
5. Hit the endlink nuts with the same monster gun. Don't do it by hand. Crank them down.
6. Get a wrench and all three ball joint nuts. Make them mechanic tight.
7. Crank down the radius arm nut and bolt to the same standard. Mechanic tight.
8. Get a socket on the sway bar strap nuts and make them mechanic tight.
9. Hit all four steering rack bolts and make them mechanic tight.

The 5th Gen Camaro is a ZETA II front end. We have seen issues with the G8 in the USA and the Commodore in AU. Chevrolet addressed those issues with large more robust ball joints and studs. Pontiac has addressed them with a TSB to replace the LCA and radius arms. There is NO issue with those components on the Camaro. Replacing the arms on G8s does not eliminate the noise because there were additional sources. Those sources are what appear to be tight to spec nuts on ball joints, endlinks, steering rack mounts, clevis bolts and strut mounting hardware. (The Camaro strut mount is different from the G8, but similar in that it has two nuts one below and one above the strut mount). Tightening the bolts is the key to resolving front end noises. What makes it tough for the DYI is lack of access to a high volume high pressure air supply to power a rattle gun.

[Rcfiddy1]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

What aftermarket suspension parts are on your car?

Nothing in front end. Only rear toe arms and a bmr sub frame connector and tunnel brace. I noticed the clunk while going ove a speed bump a few weeks ago but now I can just turn into a corner a bit hard, say around 20-30 mph and I'll get it every time. I only noticed lately because I swapped stock rims for a square setup of 20x10s and made a few hard turns to see how new contact patch felt and I heard clunk In front end. Seems more pronounced while turning right but also in lefties too.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1

Nothing in front end. Only rear toe arms and a bmr sub frame connector and tunnel brace. I noticed the clunk while going ove a speed bump a few weeks ago but now I can just turn into a corner a bit hard, say around 20-30 mph and I'll get it every time. I only noticed lately because I swapped stock rims for a square setup of 20x10s and made a few hard turns to see how new contact patch felt and I heard clunk In front end. Seems more pronounced while turning right but also in lefties too.

Run through the process listed a post or so above and let us know if that resolves your noise.

[Ragnar]

Got my car with 8 miles on it. After delivery and I was driving to work, I hit this bump making a right turn, doing 15 mph, and it sounds like someone took a large hammer and hit the car under the left front! I have an appointment at the dealership and I am going to drive them to this bump. I hit other bumps and no issues. Thank ya'll for the information!

[Rcfiddy1]

I can replicate sound anytime. Just turn hard into a 90 degree turn like a street corner and load the front end. Clunk every time. Doesn't matter if it's right or left sound will come from which ever side is loaded. Going in Tuesday to chevy.

[Rcfiddy1]

Dealer is blaming a heavily modified engine for the loud clunk in front end. Is that awesome or what? Even when my car is doing 35 mph it's so powerful it causes the clunk. Good work pine belt chevy of freehold for you insight.

[TommyTheCat]

Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1

Dealer is blaming a heavily modified engine for the loud clunk in front end. Is that awesome or what? Even when my car is doing 35 mph it's so powerful it causes the clunk. Good work pine belt chevy of freehold for you insight.

Time to get some aftermarket suspension if you've got that much power (;
They'll say anything to keep from spending warranty bucks

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1

Dealer is blaming a heavily modified engine for the loud clunk in front end. Is that awesome or what? Even when my car is doing 35 mph it's so powerful it causes the clunk. Good work pine belt chevy of freehold for you insight.

If it is a weight related issues, then the dealer has a fair point. How much does the blower and related components weigh?

Is the sway car making contact with the a part of the blower, intercooler, some kind of plumbing?

[Rcfiddy1]

There is no contact at all. A novi supercharger mounts up like an alternator and probably weighs 75-100 pounds. Also I have to point out since I'm not running stock exhaust manifolds I'm am sure it shaved weight as to offset any added by my blower. Saying they can't replicate it but blame it on my supercharger is just plain lazy. We know there's an issue it's not like I'm the only one having this issue.to top off this great dealer experience they said my steering wheel wobble was due to wrong size tires on front, I'm running a 10 in square setup on new factory repos rims. Funny the wobble started before I even had these rims on car. It started when the front started clunking.