V8 bolt on help desk! Now available!! - Page 493 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

litle88 · 10-28-2013, 12:22 PM

Lmao. Good luck with that. Lol

Muddflap · 10-28-2013, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by litle88

Lmao. Good luck with that. Lol

I think it will work.........

ssmike · 10-28-2013, 01:12 PM

The heck with the mods, I think this guy has the right idea!

Crap, the pic wouldn't load! He's a homeless guy holding a sign that says "I won't lie, I want BEER!"

Edit: Here it is!

Muddflap · 10-28-2013, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssmike

The heck with the mods, I think this guy has the right idea!

Crap, the pic wouldn't load! He's a homeless guy holding a sign that says "I won't lie, I want BEER!"

If it works for him it will work for me!

SolomonAKOO · 10-29-2013, 07:25 AM

So when going to a nitrous setup, what are some key things I need to do before doing the setup? Also what are the recommend plugs?

litle88 · 10-29-2013, 08:23 AM

You'll need BR7EF which are ngk part # 3346
As long as you haven't changed compression.

You'll need a bottle warmer, purge solenoid, window switch, and the LPE Lnc-2000 (?) it's their timing retarder and is plug and play.

nyrfan · 10-29-2013, 08:32 AM

What to upgrade my sways to the Pfadt ZL series.

Is this something that is hard to do? I've done some research and it seems pretty straight forward, allthough the needed front endlink swap scares me a bit. I'd say my mechanic skills are a 6-7 out of 10.

ssmike · 10-29-2013, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nyrfan

What to upgrade my sways to the Pfadt ZL series.

Is this something that is hard to do? I've done some research and it seems pretty straight forward, allthough the needed front endlink swap scares me a bit. I'd say my mechanic skills are a 6-7 out of 10.

Front and rear?

nyrfan · 10-29-2013, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssmike

Front and rear?

yes.

ssmike · 10-29-2013, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nyrfan

yes.

Rear is a piece of cake! You may need to remove the rear half of the exhaust if it's in the way. Depends on what aftermarket set-up you have. Not sure about NPP if you have that. To do the front bar however you will need to loosen the engine mounts and raise the engine about an inch in order to remove the stock bar and install the new one. The endlinks should be pretty easy to do front and back.

TBone · 10-29-2013, 04:02 PM

I do not know why everyone says that you need to raise the engine to remove the front sway bar? I have removed and installed three sway bars and never touched the engine mounts. I guess I am pretty good at twisting and figuring out how to get $hit out and in. I am not saying it is easy and I recommend doing ti from the passenger side but it is possible.

nyrfan, GO BLACKHAWKS!!!, have you done any other upgrades to your rear? Specifically the half shafts/axles. Also, It is a whole lot easier if you drop at least one side of the exhaust.

Do not let the endlinks scare you, they are pretty easy with the right tools. Follow the directions that Pfadt gives you and you are good to go. Any additional questions and give Tyler/Jordan at JDP a call or Matt/Name Escapes me at FSP a call for tips/questions. Or us since quite a few of us have done this swap already.

Now, I need to head to the garage myself and figure out what is up with my brakes.

T.

SolomonAKOO · 10-29-2013, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by litle88

You'll need BR7EF which are ngk part # 3346
As long as you haven't changed compression.

You'll need a bottle warmer, purge solenoid, window switch, and the LPE Lnc-2000 (?) it's their timing retarder and is plug and play.

Ok yeah I planned in getting all those things minus the plugs, wasn't sure which ones to get.

axis · 10-29-2013, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBone

I do not know why everyone says that you need to raise the engine to remove the front sway bar? I have removed and installed three sway bars and never touched the engine mounts. I guess I am pretty good at twisting and figuring out how to get $hit out and in. I am not saying it is easy and I recommend doing ti from the passenger side but it is possible.

Yes it's possible but it's a PITA to try an figure it out. My son and I worked on it for 2hrs trying to twist it in every direction and prying it against things I wasn't comfortable doing. Called Aaron at Pfadt and he recommended raising the engine. Had the bar replaced an hour later. It's really easy too. Just loosen the two engine mount bolts staring you in the face, to the point that they are almost off. Put a jack with a 2x4 on the oil pan and raise the engine a couple inches. The bar comes out easy as Zeke, after a few drinks.

litle88 · 10-29-2013, 05:51 PM

Daz rye!!!' Put me in coach lol

10-28-2013, 12:22 PM	#6889
litle88 V8 Lounge member #2 Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Burbank,IL Posts: 6,373	Lmao. Good luck with that. Lol __________________ 2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.

10-28-2013, 01:12 PM	#6891
ssmike BL1ZZRD Drives: '16 Camaro 2SS, '20 Equinox Redline Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 7,840	The heck with the mods, I think this guy has the right idea! Crap, the pic wouldn't load! He's a homeless guy holding a sign that says "I won't lie, I want BEER!" Edit: Here it is! Attached Images Last edited by ssmike; 10-28-2013 at 01:17 PM. Reason: add pic

10-29-2013, 07:25 AM	#6893
SolomonAKOO Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wyoming Posts: 1,210 View My Garage	So when going to a nitrous setup, what are some key things I need to do before doing the setup? Also what are the recommend plugs? __________________ 1 7/8" TSP headers straight piped, Custom Tick Performance cam w/ supporting mods, 1" BMR springs and other BMR suspension mods. Tuned with HPtuners by Matt@FSP

10-29-2013, 08:23 AM	#6894
litle88 V8 Lounge member #2 Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Burbank,IL Posts: 6,373	You'll need BR7EF which are ngk part # 3346 As long as you haven't changed compression. You'll need a bottle warmer, purge solenoid, window switch, and the LPE Lnc-2000 (?) it's their timing retarder and is plug and play. __________________ 2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.

10-29-2013, 08:32 AM	#6895
nyrfan Let's go Rangers! Drives: 13' AGM 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 10,742 View My Garage	What to upgrade my sways to the Pfadt ZL series. Is this something that is hard to do? I've done some research and it seems pretty straight forward, allthough the needed front endlink swap scares me a bit. I'd say my mechanic skills are a 6-7 out of 10. __________________ Soprano 4/1/00-6/14/11, Gone but NEVER forgotten! FSP tuned: 377/389

10-29-2013, 04:02 PM	#6899
TBone Negative Camber Junkie Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23 Join Date: May 2009 Location: ChiTown, IL Posts: 1,824	I do not know why everyone says that you need to raise the engine to remove the front sway bar? I have removed and installed three sway bars and never touched the engine mounts. I guess I am pretty good at twisting and figuring out how to get $hit out and in. I am not saying it is easy and I recommend doing ti from the passenger side but it is possible. nyrfan, GO BLACKHAWKS!!!, have you done any other upgrades to your rear? Specifically the half shafts/axles. Also, It is a whole lot easier if you drop at least one side of the exhaust. Do not let the endlinks scare you, they are pretty easy with the right tools. Follow the directions that Pfadt gives you and you are good to go. Any additional questions and give Tyler/Jordan at JDP a call or Matt/Name Escapes me at FSP a call for tips/questions. Or us since quite a few of us have done this swap already. Now, I need to head to the garage myself and figure out what is up with my brakes. T. __________________ "Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same. Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different. I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!

10-29-2013, 05:51 PM	#6902
litle88 V8 Lounge member #2 Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Burbank,IL Posts: 6,373	Daz rye!!!' Put me in coach lol __________________ 2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.