Do you have a V6 with squealing brakes?

[ihaveacamaro]

For everyone that has posted in this thread and for future posters: Please contact Mr. Morris to set up a case. The more cases we have on this issue, the more Chevy will care about our squeaky brakes.

Thanks!

And updated the list to include two more! Keep them coming!

[elpatofeo]

my brakes just started squeaking also but I have over 31000 miles on the car now! So, I think I just need new pads.

[Angrybird 12]

20k on mine and no squeaking. I drive a lot in the mountains and have never heard them make any noises, or get them so hot that they have that hot brake smell that is very noticeable in many cars after hard use.

[GearHeadPeter]

I have 8,454 on mine with no squealing, but I bedded in my brake pads when I first got my car. For those that have the squealing brakes you can give this a try. I followed the procedures when I put on new Satisfied GS6 Carbon Ceramic pads and Brembo rotors on my BMW. It now has over 25,000 miles with no squealing.

This is the procedure to bed in brake pads so that they do not squeal as from Tire Rack:

Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures:

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual buildup of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop. When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is complete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED
For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —
Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.
Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

For all other Satisfied pads —
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by elpatofeo

my brakes just started squeaking also but I have over 31000 miles on the car now! So, I think I just need new pads.

I doubt it. I have over 34,500 miles on my pads and when I went in to the dealer, the technician said that I have about half life still.

Of course, I bought my car with 20k miles on it so I think it is a possibility that the pads were changed once, however I doubt it.

[9.8m/s/s]

Mine are squeaking. Usually after coming to a stop then slightly letting off, or after releasing the brake. 2011 V6 around 10,000 miles, is there a solution to this?

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by 9.8m/s/s

Mine are squeaking. Usually after coming to a stop then slightly letting off, or after releasing the brake. 2011 V6 around 10,000 miles, is there a solution to this?

The solution? Many say they have the solution, whether it be changing to ceramic brakes or setting the brake pads in "properly" or going up to 65 and then braking hard down to 20 mph and then doing that every 1000 miles or so...

There are lots of solutions out there, however I am not sure how/if they all work. Personally I think the best thing to do is to let chevy know that we v6 owners do have problems with squeaky brakes as well and you can let chevy know by PM'ing Chevrolet Customer Svc (check above) and getting a case started.

The more cases they have coming up, the more interested Chevy will be in fixing the brakes for us.

Regardless, thanks for the input and you've been added to the list

[~Stacy~]

I'm getting very squeaky brakes all the time now and they are started to drive me nuts:( I'm currently at 14,000 miles on my camaro. I got new brake pads installed at 7,000 miles I put in my Hawks last October. Right now I'm looking into getting some better rotors probably the drilled and slotted?

[camaro4mybday]

23xxx miles and they squeal like a pig but um zl1 brakes are in my camaros very near future

[HopeRidesAlone]

i have 27k miles and they are horrible at first when i noticed it probly 15k miles ago it was only when i was on the breaks now its pretty much all the time the car is moving you can hear them

[chozn4service]

My brakes started squealing May of 2010 while at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. I have to admit there was some braking going on while we were bunched up before getting spread out and up to speed. I noticed it then and every since. When at the track again this year, I heard it again with the sound bouncing back off the was to me.:( I had occasionally heard it off and all since last year and forgot to mention it when I went in for my first service this past May but it wasn't doing it when I took it in. Well, leaving my house heading to the dealership for our logistic meeting for our big event in two weeks I dropped the car off to service and told them the situation and mine is only the passenger side front. When rolling I hear a squeak but when breaks are applied it stops. It's not that bad but annoying and like I told the service advisor, for the money I paid for this car, I shouldn't hear shigady but the turn of the key starting the motor, my exhaust and music.

When done, they told me they had been having issues with the vettes with the same issue and they took everything apart and lubricated everything and that I should be good to go. Well, I haven't had any more issues since, but thought I did on yesterday, briefly but it stopped. My car only has 4200 miles on it so put me down.


Since I had my car in for that service, the brakes have not made a sound, at least I don't believe so. There is that occasional * Did I just hear my brake squeak?* but now, I think Hare took care of the issue for me but still, I don't believe they should be making any noise. I know when it comes time to new pads I'd like to try some EBC Green Stuff Pads. I've heard great things on them and they don't deposit the unsightly brake dust on the wheels.

[VR Baron]

None here yet at 16000

[dmullen]

My brakes squeeked right off the lot. When I brought it back in the shop manager said that GM told them to take the car out and do several hard braking moves so that the rust on the rotors would be removed. He told me that when the car sits up in a lot or something similar rust spots will develop that need to be burned off. He also said that the government has banned normal brake pads because they had asbestos in them and that the pads are now made of metal. He said a little noise is "normal." Just posting what I was told. BTW....my brakes no longer make a sound.

[Angrybird 12]

Originally Posted by dmullen

My brakes squeeked right off the lot. When I brought it back in the shop manager said that GM told them to take the car out and do several hard braking moves so that the rust on the rotors would be removed. He told me that when the car sits up in a lot or something similar rust spots will develop that need to be burned off. He also said that the government has banned normal brake pads because they had asbestos in them and that the pads are now made of metal. He said a little noise is "normal." Just posting what I was told. BTW....my brakes no longer make a sound.

I thought they used Ceramic pads now, My HHR came with them and that is what I used to replace them, I figured the Camaro would have had them too.

Btw, in your post you mentioned it was the rotors rusting from sitting. That would not have anything to do with the pad material.