My new door switch

[Rui junior]

Hi Dwalex, first i want to say what a great job you did here, I got a question for you , i'm trying to order some parts from GM but, most of the parts online don't have pictures, i just want to make sure i order the right parts, i only going to do the driver door, thinking in pass the 2 wires from the (X2 L-Blue connector) through the driver door connector and connect it to lock/unlock switch. i got the switch part #, do you know what is the part # for the lock/unlock connector ? ( the 4
wire connector ) that will be attach to the lock switch.
Also any idea if i can order just the door panel switch holder, ( like the pictures from ( camaroLs ).
Thanks for your help.

RUI JUNIOR

ps, waiting on my radio to get back from OFER, LOL

[DWALEX]

Thanks, just look the first post for the parts #, about the switch bezel GM just sell the whole panel.

[Pagliaro]

TTT as I may be needing this.

[Eich]

Regarding this image. Any thoughts on why GM would run TWO separate wires into the door for illumination (ABL and LED for switches) ?

I'm a little hesitant to cut the ABL wire and run both off of the LED line.

[GearHeadPeter]

Originally Posted by Eich

Regarding this image. Any thoughts on why GM would run TWO separate wires into the door for illumination (ABL and LED for switches) ?

I'm a little hesitant to cut the ABL wire and run both off of the LED line.

From how DWALEX explained it to me is the way it works now when you dim the dashboard lights the ABL lights in the side panels also dim, and can be shut off, but the LED lights will still stay on and be dim. With the new way the ABL lights will still dim, but now the drivers side will not be able to be shut off. Make sense?

[Eich]

Originally Posted by GearHeadPeter

From how DWALEX explained it to me is the way it works now when you dim the dashboard lights the ABL lights in the side panels also dim, and can be shut off, but the LED lights will still stay on and be dim. With the new way the ABL lights will still dim, but now the drivers side will not be able to be shut off. Make sense?

Makes sense, thanks. And I'm not sure I want that new behavior of the ABL lights on the driver's side. So, I might just run two new wires instead of cutting the purple wire.

[TOYMARO]

marked

[GearHeadPeter]

Originally Posted by Eich

Makes sense, thanks. And I'm not sure I want that new behavior of the ABL lights on the driver's side. So, I might just run two new wires instead of cutting the purple wire.

The problem is that the driver's body/door connector has only 1 free pin open as all others are taken, hence the cutting of the ABL wire to use that pin. You'll need to get the correct pins to fit the connectors. The passenger door has many more open pins so that side will be easier, but you still need to get the pins for the connectors.

[Eich]

Originally Posted by GearHeadPeter

The problem is that the driver's body/door connector has only 1 free pin open as all others are taken, hence the cutting of the ABL wire to use that pin. You'll need to get the correct pins to fit the connectors. The passenger door has many more open pins so that side will be easier, but you still need to get the pins for the connectors.

I've got all the pins and I'll use this method for the passenger's side.

For the driver's side, I'll have to find a way to get 2 new wires to the door without using the existing connector.

[GearHeadPeter]

Originally Posted by Eich

I've got all the pins and I'll use this method for the passenger's side.

For the driver's side, I'll have to find a way to get 2 new wires to the door without using the existing connector.

I've seen in another topic where someone poked the wires through the body harness rubber and ran it outside of the protective rubber, and then when it got to the door they made it go back inside the rubber cover. They then drilled a hole in the door connector to put the wires through.

DWALEX did suggest using 22 guage wire as opposed to 18 as it is a smaller diameter. I took it a step further and used solid core 22 gauge since it will be easier to get through the rubber boot if that is the route I take.

Let me know what you find out.

[Eich]

Originally Posted by GearHeadPeter

I've seen in another topic where someone poked the wires through the body harness rubber and ran it outside of the protective rubber, and then when it got to the door they made it go back inside the rubber cover. They then drilled a hole in the door connector to put the wires through.

DWALEX did suggest using 22 guage wire as opposed to 18 as it is a smaller diameter. I took it a step further and used solid core 22 gauge since it will be easier to get through the rubber boot if that is the route I take.

Let me know what you find out.

Will do. I might even consider drilling an all new hole in the body of the car and the door to feed 2 new wires through with it's own conduit and rubber grommets.

[DWALEX]

Originally Posted by Eich

Will do. I might even consider drilling an all new hole in the body of the car and the door to feed 2 new wires through with it's own conduit and rubber grommets.

try to cross both wires(22G) through the free spot without pins

[Eich]

Originally Posted by DWALEX

try to cross both wires(22G) through the free spot without pins

Maybe something like this would fit through (2/22AWG)?

[DWALEX]