V6 Oil Burn - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

carls2010 · 07-09-2012, 01:08 PM

Now that you change it, AND is correct grade, and not cheap oil. ???????? - .Check it at about 500 mile and wright down where it is at, and mile's.. Then after 500 more miles recheck it and if down wright reading and mile's [on paper] then try about 300 more and recheck, and record that.... --If i remember right,,, GM SAYS that if it burns more than a quart in 1000 miles it's warr issue ....So dont let a dealer tell you it's not... Hope you kept records of your oil changes and i also recommend not to go the max mile's that gm says you can on oil....... On the 2010 v6 i had, it took reg grade oil, not synth.and i didnt let it go over 4000 without changing.... Not sure what your running.. Hope its not tho's speedy oil change places.??? .If so that may be the issue.. JUST MAKE SURE GOOD OIL is in there and the recomended grade.. And record your mile's on paper and usage, as gm/dealer will need to see the usage ......

SC2150 · 07-09-2012, 01:43 PM

First, the rings need to be seated properly and you only have app the first 500 miles to do so. After that the cylinder glazes hard so the window has passed. To properly seat rings drive it normal full throttle acceleration but no hard deceleration from time to time (ignore the owners manual).

Then, if you were 2.5 qts low you risked the timing chain tensioners collapsing and jumping timing and engine failure.....ALWAYS check oil every few fuel fill ups until you know the usage of the car.

If you have no consumption then yes, your rings seated properly.

ALL DI motors need a good functioning catchcan to avoid issue long term.

After breakin, get the dexos blend out and ONLT run full synthetic (again ignore the owners manual).

There is one more mod all of these need to fix part of the issue.

cmrwailes · 07-09-2012, 04:28 PM

I have been doing all my oil changes myself and I have been using only the Mobile 1 Dexos blend. However, it says it is a full synthetic. So if you are saying to get out the Dexos and only run a full synthetic oil, which one. I thought that was what Mobile 1 is? I also have a catch can installed and check and drain that when I change my oil. As for receipts I only have it written down in my manual that I have been changing it 30% oil life each time. Also, with me having almost 50,000 miles on my car, I am pretty sure it is broken in.

Russell James · 07-09-2012, 05:24 PM

The Mobil 1 is fine. If it is burning that much oil, I highly doubt it has anything to do with the oil brand or break in.

The first thing to do is an oil consumption test on new oil. Change oil, get it right at the full mark. Drive 1000 miles, recheck level. Top off, drive another 1000 miles, recheck level. How much did it burn in 2000 miles?

1 qt or more in 2000 miles and I'd look into a problem with compression and leakdown test.

You always want to keep it full, or within 1 qt. Which is why they put the 1 qt range on the dipstick. You never want to go more than 1 qt low, as then there isn't the quantity of oil to do everything properly. Low oil will also make the oil more diluted as a percent. You'll still be getting the same condensation, fuel wash, combustion byproducts.... but less oil for it to mix into.... making it a horrible mix of oil and crud, which will burn off very fast on a highway drive. Which is why you do the oil consumption test on fresh/full oil.

I'd plan on engine work. Those timing chains do not like low old oil.

Russell James · 07-09-2012, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carls2010

TWO LOCAL GM DEALER TOLD ME THAT GM WARR ON OIL USAGE IS IF IT GOES , 1,500 miles, and no usage its not warr issue but if it uses oil under the 1,500 mark it has to be varified by them first and would be warr issue.--My 2010 v6 used a quart in the first 1,200 miles and i toped it off and its been no usage at all since then

GM's spec is 1 qt in 2000 miles on a oil consumption test with fresh oil. There is a bulletin on it.

All engines burn oil. Rings and valve seals don't perfectly scrape those surfaces dry. There is always a slight oil burn on every combustion. The thing is there is also crud being added... condensation, fuel wash, combustion by-products.... which pretty much equals out the usage and most people think they are burning zero oil. Not really, the adds just kinda equal the minuses on a good engine.

An engine with a real problem will probably show more usage than 1 qt in 2000 miles (after break in), show a problem on leakdown, possibly oil deposits on the plugs...

SC2150 · 07-09-2012, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmrwailes

I have been doing all my oil changes myself and I have been using only the Mobile 1 Dexos blend. However, it says it is a full synthetic. So if you are saying to get out the Dexos and only run a full synthetic oil, which one. I thought that was what Mobile 1 is? I also have a catch can installed and check and drain that when I change my oil. As for receipts I only have it written down in my manual that I have been changing it 30% oil life each time. Also, with me having almost 50,000 miles on my car, I am pretty sure it is broken in.

Dexos M1 blend is a syn blend, not 100% sysn. The only area where these engines suffer from a blend is the timing chains and tensioners/bores. The rest lives fine with the dexos blend....but the timing chains are pretty critical to the engine living.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

GM's spec is 1 qt in 2000 miles on a oil consumption test with fresh oil. There is a bulletin on it.

All engines burn oil. Rings and valve seals don't perfectly scrape those surfaces dry. There is always a slight oil burn on every combustion. The thing is there is also crud being added... condensation, fuel wash, combustion by-products.... which pretty much equals out the usage and most people think they are burning zero oil. Not really, the adds just kinda equal the minuses on a good engine.

An engine with a real problem will probably show more usage than 1 qt in 2000 miles (after break in), show a problem on leakdown, possibly oil deposits on the plugs...

Good info and correct.

cmrwailes · 07-09-2012, 08:06 PM

Say I do need engine work. In terms of timing chains and tensioners/bores, what would have to be done to those and what kind of cost should I expect?

Avenging Orange · 07-10-2012, 12:58 AM

I'll say it for 1,000,000,000,000 time.........it amazes me how many people do not check their oil !! For Gods sake, people.......get off the sofa, put the GD cell phone down, open the cutains and walk outside! My mother is 76 yrs old and still checks her oil at least once a week.
I've been a cop 25 yrs. I have stopped for bazillions of disabled vehicles. You would be shocked at how many 1) ran out of gas, 2) ran out of oil, 3) ran out of coolant, 4) had a flat tire (with a spare and jack in the trunk)..........and didnt have a clue as to what or why it happened. I have found this an interesting fact. Drivers Ed: Apparently doesnt teach kids, a) how to check the oil, b) how to check the coolant, and c) how to change a tire. Are you kidding me!!!
This is a sad word we live in. So few understand the value of a hard days labor. So few understand the true value of a dollar. So few understand the concept of 'working' your way to the top. So few understand respect is earned not a birth right. Yet so many rely on technology to live their lives for them.

cmrwailes · 07-10-2012, 08:49 AM

AO I do check my oil and the last time I checked it I was fine. My car seems to be burning an unusual amount of oil. I have always done the majority of work on all of my cars and I will continue to do so. I am not a kid by any means, unless you are like 80 years old. I am 45. The questions that I am asking does not warrant you unleashing a tongue lashing on me. I simply wanted to know, since I have never done it, what kind of cost I could expect if I have to have work done on my timing chains and tensioners/bores. As for me asking what is the minimum oil I could run on, the only reason I asked that, is because I have never, in my 45 years had a car burn oil like this one. I have also never owned a Chevrolet, this is my first. However, if you google this, you will see that this is a common problem. I am not the only one having it. So, again I ask for someone who does not want to lecture me about how I should know how to do this and I should know how to do that and how lazy I am, my last question.

What kind of cost I could expect if I have to have work done on my timing chains and tensioners/bores?

To everyone else, thank you for your advice and information. I appreciate it.

Russell James · 07-10-2012, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmrwailes

Say I do need engine work. In terms of timing chains and tensioners/bores, what would have to be done to those and what kind of cost should I expect?

The first thing to do is the oil consumption test. If it is burning excessive oil, the cause of that will have to be addressed.

The costs are going to vary widely depending on what it needs, if anything. I'd first show it to a dealer and see if they can check into if what is needed could be covered under the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty.

SC2150 · 07-10-2012, 09:03 AM

There are some other things to try as well. PM me for details.

Sikoriko · 07-10-2012, 11:52 AM

This is good to know. I sometimes take checking the oil for granted. no more starting today. well friday for sure

woldhagen · 03-22-2013, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lafountain

I remember a while back we were talking about the CTS DI 3.6 and how it burned oil a little. Just wondering if anyone with the V6 has noticed this at all or if it is something that they appear to have fixed already.

My 3.6 uses about 1 quart every 2000 and GM say that that is good. I disagree but what can u do. My dip stick shows over full with 6 quarts but on the full mark with 5 how about yours? I am looking into why this is happening.

salsalazar92 · 05-23-2013, 11:14 PM

I have a 2010 camaro v6 I had a problem with my oil aswell my engine was running dry and blew at around 30k miles it was warranty replaced but the oil continues to burn at about 30% oil life I rechecked my dipstick and the tip of it had some oil so I added a 1qt I just dropped it of at the dealer

07-10-2012, 12:58 AM	#64
Avenging Orange Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Clermont, IN Posts: 3,297	I'll say it for 1,000,000,000,000 time.........it amazes me how many people do not check their oil !! For Gods sake, people.......get off the sofa, put the GD cell phone down, open the cutains and walk outside! My mother is 76 yrs old and still checks her oil at least once a week. I've been a cop 25 yrs. I have stopped for bazillions of disabled vehicles. You would be shocked at how many 1) ran out of gas, 2) ran out of oil, 3) ran out of coolant, 4) had a flat tire (with a spare and jack in the trunk)..........and didnt have a clue as to what or why it happened. I have found this an interesting fact. Drivers Ed: Apparently doesnt teach kids, a) how to check the oil, b) how to check the coolant, and c) how to change a tire. Are you kidding me!!! This is a sad word we live in. So few understand the value of a hard days labor. So few understand the true value of a dollar. So few understand the concept of 'working' your way to the top. So few understand respect is earned not a birth right. Yet so many rely on technology to live their lives for them. __________________ 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419. Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!! https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8 https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34 KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!

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07-09-2012, 01:08 PM	#57
carls2010 Drives: 2006 Corvette Join Date: May 2011 Location: oswego, ny Posts: 263 View My Garage	Now that you change it, AND is correct grade, and not cheap oil. ???????? - .Check it at about 500 mile and wright down where it is at, and mile's.. Then after 500 more miles recheck it and if down wright reading and mile's [on paper] then try about 300 more and recheck, and record that.... --If i remember right,,, GM SAYS that if it burns more than a quart in 1000 miles it's warr issue ....So dont let a dealer tell you it's not... Hope you kept records of your oil changes and i also recommend not to go the max mile's that gm says you can on oil....... On the 2010 v6 i had, it took reg grade oil, not synth.and i didnt let it go over 4000 without changing.... Not sure what your running.. Hope its not tho's speedy oil change places.??? .If so that may be the issue.. JUST MAKE SURE GOOD OIL is in there and the recomended grade.. And record your mile's on paper and usage, as gm/dealer will need to see the usage ......

07-09-2012, 01:43 PM	#58
SC2150 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 6,063	First, the rings need to be seated properly and you only have app the first 500 miles to do so. After that the cylinder glazes hard so the window has passed. To properly seat rings drive it normal full throttle acceleration but no hard deceleration from time to time (ignore the owners manual). Then, if you were 2.5 qts low you risked the timing chain tensioners collapsing and jumping timing and engine failure.....ALWAYS check oil every few fuel fill ups until you know the usage of the car. If you have no consumption then yes, your rings seated properly. ALL DI motors need a good functioning catchcan to avoid issue long term. After breakin, get the dexos blend out and ONLT run full synthetic (again ignore the owners manual). There is one more mod all of these need to fix part of the issue.

07-09-2012, 04:28 PM	#59
cmrwailes Drives: 2011 Camaro LT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 8	I have been doing all my oil changes myself and I have been using only the Mobile 1 Dexos blend. However, it says it is a full synthetic. So if you are saying to get out the Dexos and only run a full synthetic oil, which one. I thought that was what Mobile 1 is? I also have a catch can installed and check and drain that when I change my oil. As for receipts I only have it written down in my manual that I have been changing it 30% oil life each time. Also, with me having almost 50,000 miles on my car, I am pretty sure it is broken in.

07-09-2012, 05:24 PM	#60
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	The Mobil 1 is fine. If it is burning that much oil, I highly doubt it has anything to do with the oil brand or break in. The first thing to do is an oil consumption test on new oil. Change oil, get it right at the full mark. Drive 1000 miles, recheck level. Top off, drive another 1000 miles, recheck level. How much did it burn in 2000 miles? 1 qt or more in 2000 miles and I'd look into a problem with compression and leakdown test. You always want to keep it full, or within 1 qt. Which is why they put the 1 qt range on the dipstick. You never want to go more than 1 qt low, as then there isn't the quantity of oil to do everything properly. Low oil will also make the oil more diluted as a percent. You'll still be getting the same condensation, fuel wash, combustion byproducts.... but less oil for it to mix into.... making it a horrible mix of oil and crud, which will burn off very fast on a highway drive. Which is why you do the oil consumption test on fresh/full oil. I'd plan on engine work. Those timing chains do not like low old oil.

07-09-2012, 08:06 PM	#63
cmrwailes Drives: 2011 Camaro LT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 8	Say I do need engine work. In terms of timing chains and tensioners/bores, what would have to be done to those and what kind of cost should I expect?

07-10-2012, 08:49 AM	#65
cmrwailes Drives: 2011 Camaro LT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 8	AO I do check my oil and the last time I checked it I was fine. My car seems to be burning an unusual amount of oil. I have always done the majority of work on all of my cars and I will continue to do so. I am not a kid by any means, unless you are like 80 years old. I am 45. The questions that I am asking does not warrant you unleashing a tongue lashing on me. I simply wanted to know, since I have never done it, what kind of cost I could expect if I have to have work done on my timing chains and tensioners/bores. As for me asking what is the minimum oil I could run on, the only reason I asked that, is because I have never, in my 45 years had a car burn oil like this one. I have also never owned a Chevrolet, this is my first. However, if you google this, you will see that this is a common problem. I am not the only one having it. So, again I ask for someone who does not want to lecture me about how I should know how to do this and I should know how to do that and how lazy I am, my last question. What kind of cost I could expect if I have to have work done on my timing chains and tensioners/bores? To everyone else, thank you for your advice and information. I appreciate it.

07-10-2012, 09:03 AM	#67
SC2150 Account Suspended Drives: 2012 Camaro RS, RX supercharged Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 6,063	There are some other things to try as well. PM me for details.

07-10-2012, 11:52 AM	#68
Sikoriko Drives: 2011 V6 IOM Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,385 View My Garage	This is good to know. I sometimes take checking the oil for granted. no more starting today. well friday for sure

05-23-2013, 11:14 PM	#70
salsalazar92 Drives: 2010 camaro v6 Join Date: May 2013 Location: fontana,ca Posts: 1	I have a 2010 camaro v6 I had a problem with my oil aswell my engine was running dry and blew at around 30k miles it was warranty replaced but the oil continues to burn at about 30% oil life I rechecked my dipstick and the tip of it had some oil so I added a 1qt I just dropped it of at the dealer