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Old 03-21-2010, 05:22 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by NoUCantDriveIt View Post
Wish I knew about that code when I ordered my kit last Thursday :(
I hear ya. I've ordered about $1k of Adam's stuff in the last month. I wish I'd waited too! Oh well, in the meantime, I've detailed my car on a nice day. I'll just have to buy more! I need more detail spray.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:20 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Darth_Emma View Post
Let me get my Super Junkman bat signal!
So I wake up from my afternoon nap and look out the window. Low and behold, Terri had sent up the Junkman signal!



Well here I am JSharp!

Allow me to explain a few things about what you experienced. I actually state this loud and clear in my videos about claying. That is, because claying removes all the junk off the clear coat, it is also removing all the junk that is IN the swirls and scratches. You saw more scratches after you got done claying NOT because you scratched the paint, but because you removed all the junk that was in the scratches too! Your paint is in a lot worse shape thn you think and if you fire off the flash of a camera into your paint, you will see just how bad it is in that picture. The swirls cannot hide from the flash!



This tells me 100% that you have been using those over-the-counter products (like what you were using when this happened) in the past. OTC products are notorious for having bunch of fillers in them in order to make up for you not having to use a polisher. By filling in the scratches, your paint has the illusion of being in better condition than it actually is, and it is a WHOLE lot less work to fill in the scratches than it is to REMOVE them.

As for the spot that gave you trouble. I would HIGHLY advise against using a drill on your paint!!! You could easily burn through the clear coat and then we are talking about repainting. There is no fixing after you make that mistake, there is only repainting. If I were you, I would wait until my Adam's supplies arrives and redo that area with the Adam's clay. I would then start with FMP and the PC and see if it will buff back into shape. If not, I would up the ante to SHR, and then follow that with FMP. That should take care of the spot.

You probably ran into some tree sap or whatnot. Maybe you were not using enough lubricant. I know that those OTC product contain enough detail spray for me to get about 1 hood done so how people manage to do a whole car with one bottle amazes me.

I hope this post finds you in time before you do something crazy to your baeutiful car. Next time, look me up BEFORE you go this far.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:22 PM   #59
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I told you guys I had a magical bat signal for Super Junkman!
Thanks, Junkman! Now go back to sleep.
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Old 03-21-2010, 06:45 PM   #60
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Quick question, about ready to put my order in.I am considering just doing it by hand, more time with my baby. So are you guys masking the edges off when using the polisher??
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:05 PM   #61
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Quick question, about ready to put my order in.I am considering just doing it by hand, more time with my baby. So are you guys masking the edges off when using the polisher??
I don't, but then I'm lazy. However, the PC is not going to wipe paint off the edges of the car unless you try to do it on purpose. It takes some effort.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:25 PM   #62
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ok first of all let me thank you for the help. Next let me say up until today I have only washed and dried the car with rain x soap and terry cloth to dry. I have not ever waxed the car or nothing so the only OTC product i have used was shampoo. Today I used the clay bar for the first time ever and I only did it in that one spot thank goodness. I was going to use the black box for the car show but if you advise not to then I wont I did however use it over this spot to make it look good again or as you say feel in the scratches. Do you suggest claying the whole car with adams clay bar and then do the whole car in Fine polish. I have no PC so I need options for hand polishing to fix this spot as well as getting the rest of the car in top notch shape. Here are a couple of pics to show my current condition.










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Old 03-21-2010, 07:30 PM   #63
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all I can really see it water streaks from terry cloth which I do not know where to began to get the car dry without having them I ordered the adams drying cloth to so may it be fix it.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:44 PM   #64
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Welp, placed my order. Hopefully I get some nice weather next week to use it.
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:55 PM   #65
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First things first, the pictures. When you want to shoot pictures up close as you have done, you must use a feature on your camera called the Macro setting. It looks like a small flower. This will allow the camera to focus when you move in from less than 12" away, which is what I want to see. It will really give me an idea of what the spot you're working on looks like.

The water spots have something to do with your wash and dry technique. When it comes to car wash soap, I am not an expert. I would like to think that it is pretty much all the same but I do know that soap that contains some wax is better than just regular car wash soap. With that said, you may get better results out of the Adam's car shampoo and the microfiber drying towel. I know that some guys use the drying towel with detail spray in order to achieve spotless drying results. I wash and dry in my garage, using a leaf blower to knock off most of the water. Because my car is not sitting in the sun, I don't have drying water spot issues.

Retake those pictures using the macro function, making sure that the flash is in the picture. That will give me a better idea as to what you're dealing with. Fixing the damage by hand can be done, but it is A LOT of work. My ball and socket joints wouldn't stand one panel by hand, much less the whole car. I could fix your damage in 3 minutes with a polisher. By hand would be a workout.
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:06 PM   #66
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k ill go take up now. I also wash my car in my garage never in the sun. I simply just keep wiping the surface with microfiber towel until the water beads are so fine they dry. I can not ever get it so dry there is not some kind of streaks but anyway back to the subject at hand. Ill go take the pics now I found the micro flower setting and will go retake pictures now and replace the ones above. What order of product do I need to use by hand then to fix the spot. I will just use adams shampoo drying towel and buttery was from now on does that seem like a plan? they use the drill in multiple videos at low speed; do you not think its good to use for small spots if you keep it moving slow and off edges?
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:17 PM   #67
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My first suggestion is toss the terry cloth towels and get yourself some detail spray and some good microfiber towels.

Actually, that was my second suggestion. My FIRST suggestion really is to watch the Junkman's videos. They're fun and educational. (Don't forget the popcorn.)
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:21 PM   #68
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the towels I use say microfiber are they fake or something?
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:21 PM   #69
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The drill is a bit tricky. All it takes is one aggressive squeeze of the trigger and you can be staring at paint damage. Drills do not have a trigger control that locks at one speed like the PC so that's why I don't like going that route. Personally, I don't use a drill on my paint if that tells you anything.

The order that you use the products in is the same, regardless of whether you do it by hand or machine. It is key that you understand what each product does as this will then make sense to you. You understand that you don't wax the car first and then wash it because you understand what washing and waxing is. The polishes also have specific purposes and once you understand the purpose of each, the order of use is totally logical.

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the towels I use say microfiber are they fake or something?
Are they made in China? Do they have a tag sewn in the seam? If so, they are totally garbage.
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:27 PM   #70
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ok junkman I posted the pictures above with correct resolution to replace the others.
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