AC/Actuator Door Class Action

[0stones0]

Originally Posted by mikeman

So, 2 clicks from the blue dot is middle, right?

No. “2 clicks from blue dot” is.... 2 clicks to the right of the blue dot.

[Gr33kninja12]

Originally Posted by 0stones0

So, did a little testing this afternoon. Open door, get in car, no actuator noise. Turn key to on, actuator moves to setting on dial. In my case, right in the middle between cold and warm. While key is still on, move dial and actuator operates to setting I put it at. If I turn the key to 2 clicks from cold, actuator sounds normal. If I go past that mark, towards cold, I can hear the actuator labor. This was all without starting the car.

Recently I replaced the Blendoor on my 2013 Camaro with 67k miles on it, i used the hack that 737 mechanic had and it was very detailed, i will post a link on here.

I also tried your method of leaving it on two clicks back and didnt notice any stressing of the motor or even really heard it actuate like before when it was set to max, also another thing to note is two clicks back you dont seem to lose any cold airflow further suspecting that two clicks back seems to fully close that blendoor but thats just from feeling the air id have to actually put a thermotoer to check it.

This is by far one of the best videos out there detailing step by step how to do this repair without pulling the dash or windshield out.

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Gr33kninja12

Recently I replaced the Blendoor on my 2013 Camaro with 67k miles on it, i used the hack that 737 mechanic had and it was very detailed, i will post a link on here.

I also tried your method of leaving it on two clicks back and didnt notice any stressing of the motor or even really heard it actuate like before when it was set to max, also another thing to note is two clicks back you dont seem to lose any cold airflow further suspecting that two clicks back seems to fully close that blendoor but thats just from feeling the air id have to actually put a thermotoer to check it.

This is by far one of the best videos out there detailing step by step how to do this repair without pulling the dash or windshield out.

This vid was fantastic! Makes me feel confident I could do this job if the need ever arises. I also like the fact that the OP of this video posted links on where to get the parts and tools. My question is why use a plastic door again? is there any way to incorporate a metal door so we do not have to go through the hassle of replacing it again??



Bookmarked the video for future reference!

[Gr33kninja12]

Originally Posted by SummitWhite11

This vid was fantastic! Makes me feel confident I could do this job if the need ever arises. I also like the fact that the OP of this video posted links on where to get the parts and tools. My question is why use a plastic door again? is there any way to incorporate a metal door so we do not have to go through the hassle of replacing it again??



Bookmarked the video for future reference!

You make a good point about reinforcing the door, conisdering GM has not updated that part number in 13 years i decided to add epoxy to the first 3 channels of the injection mold on the back side of the door near the indent for the shaft that goes into it from the motor or you can just check out this website and get an aluminum door

https://www.blenddoorusa.com/product...maro-temp-door

[Wizard1183]

Well 2010 Camaros are ranked as the worst Camaro to ever get due to the issues, recalls etc. I’m like well 34k mi and no issues. But high mileage? I can see it. But to claim ls3 and tremec 6sp have issues in 2010? I don’t see that

[el ess A]

Yeah....

Just in case GM decides to make the doors permanently unavailable, I bought a couple for both mine, and a spare actuator motor and connector.

Have had no issues regardless, but with only 12xxx on the 2010 and 2xxx on the 2013, I kinda didn't expect to see any. But the question may not be the age of the plastic alone, but the age and number of temperature cycles it sees.

Regardless, I think I'll do the "2 clicks to the right" method. Personally don't want to HAVE to fix it, but definitely will do a cut and hack method from below if needed. Cars don't go out in the winter, and A/C is virtually mandatory around here.

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Gr33kninja12

You make a good point about reinforcing the door, conisdering GM has not updated that part number in 13 years i decided to add epoxy to the first 3 channels of the injection mold on the back side of the door near the indent for the shaft that goes into it from the motor or you can just check out this website and get an aluminum door

https://www.blenddoorusa.com/product...maro-temp-door

Nice! Bookmarked for future reference. Thanks!

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Wizard1183

Well 2010 Camaros are ranked as the worst Camaro to ever get due to the issues, recalls etc. I’m like well 34k mi and no issues. But high mileage? I can see it. But to claim ls3 and tremec 6sp have issues in 2010? I don’t see that

I have a 2010 with 97k on mine and haven't run into issue yet. Purchased with 73k on it almost 7 years ago. Although I have been doing the 2 clicks to the right for a long time.

[Wizard1183]

Originally Posted by SummitWhite11

I have a 2010 with 97k on mine and haven't run into issue yet. Purchased with 73k on it almost 7 years ago. Although I have been doing the 2 clicks to the right for a long time.

Nah man I googled reliability of 2010 Camaros and they’re acting like they’re the worst. I’m like hmmm no bells and whistles like newer models but yet the worst because it was a new models? Give me a break! I know the ls3 is fantastic reliable engine. Most don’t have issues other than the formidable blend door. But I did like you. Put it in 2notches from blue? Now 34k miles and I bought it in 2011 with 16k miles. Do the math. I don’t drive it. It’s a baby ��

[Danial]

I read through this thread the other night so today on the way home, I tested it. My AC is very noticeably colder on MAX than it is with the 2 clicks to the right of the blue dot setting. I live in southern Nevada. I'll take my chances on max setting. Sometimes a man has to do what a man has to do.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Originally Posted by Danial

I read through this thread the other night so today on the way home, I tested it. My AC is very noticeably colder on MAX than it is with the 2 clicks to the right of the blue dot setting. I live in southern Nevada. I'll take my chances on max setting. Sometimes a man has to do what a man has to do.

I found the same results. And I’ll take my chances as well. I won’t pay a shop to fix it if it breaks, so it won’t be near as expensive for me as it is for some others.

[Wizard1183]

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

I found the same results. And I’ll take my chances as well. I won’t pay a shop to fix it if it breaks, so it won’t be near as expensive for me as it is for some others.

It’s a lot of work though! Lol like 12 hours worth

[Danial]

Originally Posted by Wizard1183

It’s a lot of work though! Lol like 12 hours worth

My son-in-law did it in a couple hours on my 2013 earlier this year. Maybe it was because he had the help of my granddaughter...grin...

[Danial]

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

I found the same results. And I’ll take my chances as well. I won’t pay a shop to fix it if it breaks, so it won’t be near as expensive for me as it is for some others.

Yep. I paid my son-in-law $400 plus a bunch of Bud Light (before the controversy).