IT LIVES! My Z/LE ZL1 + 1LE + 2SS = Z/LE ;o) LSA SC [COTW 2/09/15]

[JOHNSONROD]

i see it. man, i hope mine goes in ok.

[hammdo]

I'm going to ck the bushings and make sure they are installed like Thomas said, but, looking at it, I'm not seeing them installed wrong.

I'll take measurements and post the difference between the bushings in the differential and the cradle...

-Don

[hammdo]

OK, Talked to Thomas -- he agrees, never seen it before -- so, treat it like a ZL1 install and pound out the cradle where its hitting. That is what I'm doing -- almost there!

I need to run up and get a few more punches, but the hammer and punch is working, then I'll take an air hammer and smooth it out! I'll make damn sure I have clearance this way...

Off to pound 'metal'...

-Don

[1KillerSS]

Damn man, can't believe your having those issues. Good to see you working through it. You will be happy with the end result, its worth it.

[hammdo]

Yep, I can tell you the cradle welds suck. I would not be surprised if the way this was welded, it was off 3/8". Slag all over the place, globs of weld pooled. It's something.

BUT, I do have my air hammer and bits so, I'll get it close and hammer the S**T out of it until I have clearance -- then smooth it out. Just like the old days ;o)...

-Don

[hammdo]

Got it! I had to bang the metal quite a bit, but finally it went up. I used this (from Lowes electrical aisle):



ALSO: Make sure your inner bushing is 'flush' on both sides. Mine were not and I believe this contributed with the clearance issue (my passangers and drivers side inner bushing were 1/8" to the rear and it made the diff move 'forward' into the cradle...). Notice how my passangers side is extended 'outside' of the delrin -- don't want that. Take a straight edge to verify (that is what I did) and make 100% sure. I just used a socket and hammer and 'tapped' the inner bushing side that was extended until flush. Since we have diminished clearance, we really need to be precise in our measurements...



Added more putty to see if there were any other areas I had to address. This is an 'electrical' non-hardening putty that makes a great way to check clearances (think plasti-gauge).

Lined up (I pushed it up just passed the opening to make sure there was clearance!!):



Cleaned up...

After pounding:



After cleanup:



After Primer (look @ all the 'SLAG' from the flux they never cleaned up):



Have to let the primer sit an hour, then do the black paint, let it sit for an hour, then, take the putty off and bolt it up!

The diff bolt torque specs are 85 ft lbs (and blue loctite) for these bushings -- not the factory spec 59 ft lbs -- keep that in mind...

-Don

[hammdo]

Diff is in! Everything lined up and went in perfectly!

Finished painting black:



Installed the bolts, then took the jack out so everything is now ready for the axles and driveshaft!

Bolts in:

Passangers side (the one I had to modify the cradle for):



Drivers side (see the crappy welds?):



Rear:



torqued to 85 ft lbs:



Finally! Now tomorrow, I'll install the fluid (88900401), axles -- (Torque specs per DSS '57-60lbs, a little Blue Loctite goes a long way also') and the drive shaft (70 ft lbs for the coupler with RED loctite), 54 ft lbs for the u-joint with BLUE loctite)!

BTW, EATON says no break-in needed for the TrueTrac!

-Don

[hammdo]

Here are the 2 punches and hammer I used -- did not need to use the air hammer, but had it if I needed to.

Punches (about a 1ft long and different head sizes)/Hammer:



You won't find these punches just anywhere -- Napa had one of them, the other I had from Sears (years ago). Harbor Freight won't have them -- I tried...

Amazon has them:

https://www.amazon.com/Taper-Punch-A...+pin+punch+set

I also used a Dremel to smooth the metal up after pounding out the metal...

Ear protection is a must! My ears rang from the first set of metal pounding...

-Don

[wrtowman]

Lot o work but great job as usual Don.

[hammdo]

Thanks! Its getting to be a challenge as I get closer to 60 ;o)...

But, 'endeavor to persevere', its usually worth the effort...

NOW, I can get the other items going!

-Don

[hammdo]

Got the diff full (took just a bit over 1 qt), Axles torqued (58 ft lbs) with blue loctite, Upper Control arms (60 ft lbs) and toe rods (85 ft lbs) re-installed with blue loctite (finally). I didn't catch that I had the 'coupler' off the diff, so I now have to drop my Hotchkis to install it on the diff - no biggie. I'll need to install the vent for the diff (just remembered I needed to do that).

Next will be getting the drive shaft on, oil changed, and Z/28 motor mounts (headers come off). I'll order new exhaust gaskets since this would be no fun to do it twice over a few $.

THEN comes the new exhaust (and diffuser)!

Once those are on, I'll do the JPSS front sway bar (full soft) and, look to add the 'second' heat exchanger -- that's my winter plans....

Can't wait to see how the TrueTrac behaves!

-Don

[1KillerSS]

Why are you doing a different exhaust? Is it because of the new rear end? After I installed my ZL1 rear, my 3 inch is touching in a few places. I think I need to order a system for a ZL1 not an SS. Just wondering.

[hammdo]

The stock exhaust is a 'hodge-podge' of parts -- I wanted to get cat to axle, but they don't sell it that way, soooo, got the cat back -- mufflers are the same so it won't change the sound.

I looked around here in DFW, and they wanted almost the same $$ as a full exhaust (Stainless was costly here). That is the only reason -- couldn't get the cat to axle for my exhaust without going non stainless -- which I didn't want.

What I like is the diff is higher up so I can get the exhaust off the ground a bit more -- which is a good thing!

My exhaust came off during my run @ NCM -- found some of the bolts broke from being overtightened when I had the X-Pipe installed -- then I found a leak around one of the welds -- just no point in putting that back on...

-Don

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by hammdo

The stock exhaust is a 'hodge-podge' of parts -- I wanted to get cat to axle, but they don't sell it that way, soooo, got the cat back -- mufflers are the same so it won't change the sound.

I looked around here in DFW, and they wanted almost the same $$ as a full exhaust (Stainless was costly here). That is the only reason -- couldn't get the cat to axle for my exhaust without going non stainless -- which I didn't want.

What I like is the diff is higher up so I can get the exhaust off the ground a bit more -- which is a good thing!

My exhaust came off during my run @ NCM -- found some of the bolts broke from being overtightened when I had the X-Pipe installed -- then I found a leak around one of the welds -- just no point in putting that back on...

-Don

Ya, I don't blame you, I didn't realize all of that had gone on. Sorry If I missed it in your previous postings.