02-09-2014, 02:32 PM | #85 |
Geek
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Yep! What did you end up doing for spacers under the floor plates? We are having a hard time deciding whether to use the bars they provide or washers.
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x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
02-09-2014, 02:53 PM | #86 |
I used their bars but the holes have to be ovaled out a bit. The holes on mine did not match up to the holes on the plates. We're off about an 1/8 of an inch. Chisel all that shit off the floor first too.
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02-09-2014, 02:57 PM | #87 |
Be prepared to cut the swing out bars to length. In order to use them at the length they are shipped the main hoop mounts Would have to be mounted on the back seat lol. And that's not going to work! Here's a pic of how much I cut off on each bar.
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02-09-2014, 03:02 PM | #88 |
Front floor mounting plates take some time, but they fit nice to the floor. Wheel well backing plates just the same. The main hoop mounting plates are way off with the bends. Either cut them in strips like another member posted on here ( probably the easiest way to do it if you can cut them, especially by the fuel /brake lines. The lines have to be bent around the plate a bit. If u cut them they don't. ) or improvise. I made mine fit but they don't look pretty from underneath. I also sprayed rubberized undercoating on all of the backing plates.
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02-09-2014, 03:10 PM | #89 |
The plastic guard over the brake/ fuel lines also has to be removed and trimmed back. Because of the exposed fuel line I took 3/8 rubber hose , slit it and slid it over the lines with zip ties for added protection.
The red bar is my sub frame connector.
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02-09-2014, 11:19 PM | #90 |
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We ran into that right before we called it quits for the day. What is your new idea for cutting the plastic? We were thinking about using padding to clean up the edges.
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x = ac97968bd3df8f968c8cd3df998a9c94d3df9c8a918bd3df9c 909c94df8c8a9c949a8dd3df92908b979a8ddf998a9c949a8d d3df8b968b8cd1 x = ~x |
02-10-2014, 12:53 PM | #91 |
aka Patrick
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What is this so called "Template" they reffer to for one to cut the Platic panel in the back?
I never got a "template" and it said use provided "template" (see fig 8) and it is just a damn picture lol.... Am I missing something? Also, I hope I don't have to cut the swing out arms to new length... I'll be pissed.
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02-10-2014, 02:03 PM | #92 |
WICKDSS
Drives: 2011 1SS/RS IOM LS3 Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 1,111
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Call Tim at Rpm rollbars. Ill text you his number.
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02-10-2014, 02:35 PM | #93 |
aka Patrick
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I talked to Rob @ RPM, apparently this is the template:
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Current Modifications: Your average Bolt-ons & Suspension Upgrades
GForce Engineering: 9" Rear End, Strange Pro Iron Case w/Moser Nodular 3.70:1 Detroit locker, 3.5" Solid Drive Shaft |
02-10-2014, 03:16 PM | #94 |
That is the correct template for a hard top. Not vert.
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02-10-2014, 03:31 PM | #95 | |
Quote:
After the panel is cut use a hole saw to cut the arm rest for a cleaner cut. Hard to explain but here's a pic. Just pretend the cuts I made are not there. The way I cut it looks great with some door edge molding over the cut edges and padding around the roll bar. (Like my earlier pic). ( the little slits along the edge of the panel by the arm rest were made to allow the door edge molding to slide in and continue around the hole in the arm rest )
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02-10-2014, 03:32 PM | #96 |
Arm rest cut
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02-10-2014, 03:35 PM | #97 |
Oh... And new panels aren't cheap at $200.00 each. So hopefully you guys will make out better than I did.
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02-10-2014, 04:40 PM | #98 | |
Quote:
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