Help me rebuild ......... what to buy ... what to re-use... etc.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by zebra

hmm... i could be calling a guy named Brett in TX and picking up the next TR6060/Z06 diff conversion he comes across.
$7k & a little exhaust work later, i'd be carving more mountain roads without a worry in the world

My next move would have been to beef up my 6L80E but that's on the absolute back burner now.

[PQ]

Tranny won't separate.

Ugh............Starter is off. Torque converter bolts are off. (3 of them is all I saw as I spun it slowly) Bell housing bolts are all off. 7 of them.

So are the pins that freaking tight?

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by PQ

Tranny won't separate.

Ugh............Starter is off. Torque converter bolts are off. (3 of them is all I saw as I spun it slowly) Bell housing bolts are all off. 7 of them.

So are the pins that freaking tight?

I thought someone said there was 8 bolts??

[Supercharged SS]

Originally Posted by PQ

Tranny won't separate.

Ugh............Starter is off. Torque converter bolts are off. (3 of them is all I saw as I spun it slowly) Bell housing bolts are all off. 7 of them.

So are the pins that freaking tight?

Look at all the bolt locations. Check them all on your trans.

[litle88]

It should be eight bud, iirc there's one right smack in the middle. Be careful to not put too much stress on the rear of the crank PQ.

[1Camaro2SS]

When all 8 bolts are off it will still be a little hard to separate. Just lift the engine on an angle. Be sure to attach the lift plate towards the front of the block. Lift slowly and it will break free. Those pins are pressed in a bit.

[PQ]

Yup, thanks guys. Sorry I didn't get back on here. I got it off. There are indeed 7 housing bolts and 3 torque converter bolts. I just had to pry a little.

Off to Lowes. I bought bolts half inch too long for the stand bracket to work on. seems my stand has a little shorter ends than your little88.

I put the lift plate in the center. That is what the problem probably was. I had to get under and pry on both sides. haha

[PQ]

I could not find any place that showed evidence of the kind of oil pressure loss that I had.

Rotating assembly looks fine but I'm not sure what to look for unless I disassemble it.

Anyway, here are some pics from today.

[Scott@Bjorn3D]

Lots of metal there. Not good.

[litle88]

That cam bearing looks chewed up a Lil.

You did good bud. Spray some wd40 on those bores so they don't rust while you figure out your next step. Speaking of bores how do they look? If there are no cracks your block is still good! Just a Lil hone some new bearings and polishing of the crank and its all good again and ready for sale.

With your new engine builder, you should request to have all your bearings coated. AES did that to mine. It helps in 2 ways, helps during start up because MOST wear comes during the first start up and it helps free up a Lil hp because its smoother.

Here are what they look like coated. AES built the short block for me , I did the rest.

[1Camaro2SS]

Great job pulling that baby out PQ. Lol. Looks all too familiar. Mine was in pieces like that 10 months ago. You're doing good man. Now i wish i had the $ to swap mine out. Lol. I really enjoyed working on my engine.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D

Lots of metal there. Not good.

Question is was it isolated to valve train and caught by the filter?

And what exactly caused it?

Lingenfelter, IPS, JRE, Lethal Racing, Livernois, and the rest all had a little bit different ideas but ALL were either wrong springs, Bad springs, install error, or bad cam.

Originally Posted by litle88

That cam bearing looks chewed up a Lil.

You did good bud. Spray some wd40 on those bores so they don't rust while you figure out your next step. Speaking of bores how do they look? If there are no cracks your block is still good! Just a Lil hone some new bearings and polishing of the crank and its all good again and ready for sale.

With your new engine builder, you should request to have all your bearings coated. AES did that to mine. It helps in 2 ways, helps during start up because MOST wear comes during the first start up and it helps free up a Lil hp because its smoother.

Here are what they look like coated. AES built the short block for me , I did the rest.

Oiled the cylinder walls a few times over the past few weeks.

The second cam bearing looks the same. Can't see well for the others.

If it's from the metal shaving then my bottom end is screwed too because it would have had to have went through the pump and the filter out into the channels.

I'll ask Chris at Livernois about the coating.

Originally Posted by 1Camaro2SS

Great job pulling that baby out PQ. Lol. Looks all too familiar. Mine was in pieces like that 10 months ago. You're doing good man. Now i wish i had the $ to swap mine out. Lol. I really enjoyed working on my engine.

I might just order a cam and 2 lifters, test the springs and buy new ones and put it all back together and run it till I get my new one or it dies. Whichever comes first. One thing I know, either way, I'm in money saving mode for a new engine.

[litle88]

You'll need new lifters bud, new bearings, cam, oil pump, oil cooler wherever oil touched bud. That stuff is everywhere! I would remove all the rotating assembly and sell it separate or together. How do the bores look?

[PQ]

Originally Posted by litle88

You'll need new lifters bud, new bearings, cam, oil pump, oil cooler wherever oil touched bud. That stuff is everywhere! I would remove all the rotating assembly and sell it separate or together. How do the bores look?

Bores look perfect. Well, 95k miles perfect. No scratching at all.

You mean crank bearings?